Motor Medic Motor Flush/Oil Additive

Has anyone used this product and does work? Or should I just stick with adding Seafoam to the oil 100-150 miles prior to an oil change? Thank in advance for the advice.

 

Just use good oil

 

I'm using Mobil-1 5w30 high mileage and a K&N oil filter, and changing every 5000 miles. So I believe I'm using good enough oil

 

Than adding extra stuff is just flushing money through your engine, but do what makes you happy

 

Don't really want to waste money man that's why I asked. Appreciate it

 

Look down your oil fill hole at the timing chain area, if it looks nice and clean or maybe a slight brownish buildup don't bother flushing anything, if it's really black and sludgy looking a flush MAY help clean it out. If your using Mobil 1 and changing it at 5k I would expect it to be pretty clean unless it gets alot of idle time.

 

Ok, thanks man I'll do that.

 

I'm just curious as to why you want to use a motor flush? Are you thinking of just taking extra care with your engine for longevity sake??


I think that if you're using good quality oil, oil filters, and proper oil change intervals. then you are doing much better than most of society.,

 

Oil is not only a lubricant but is also for cooling the engine and CLEANING it. As stated, continue to use mobile 1 and change it every 5k.

 

Thanks guys I will do. Just wanted to make sure I treat this thing right so it lasts.

 

This ^^^^ is the best answer. Just use good oil Dino or Synthetic (it makes no difference which one) and change it at manufacturers recommended intervals. Adding shit to your oil is a waste of $$$.

 

I dunno how my previous owner treated the truck. The shift knob was worn as shit, and it was full of weird CD's.
Cabin filter looked like crap.
Couldn't help but wonder, "Well, if they can't be bothered to replace a $45 shift knob on a truck they paid $20k for, a part their hand literally touches every drive and is visible - then maybe they neglected the hell out of everything else."
Not to mention a $13 cabin filter that slides in upon some clips popping off the glovebox to drop it down. Not hard to work on

Luckily, the Tacoma is a truck that at first, doesn't care if you neglect it. Most people do.
Neglect a Toyota for 100k miles, and it will still run.

That being said, I've seen people have issues with the timing chain on a 4th gen 4Runner with the same 1GR-FE due to sludge. Caused by neglect.
A chain system that otherwise probably works fine for a long time.
Chains on some vehicles last a while (that's the whole point)
and on other vehicles still fail, even with care

I've changed the oil
you should do the same
I've done a flush or two
but that's up to you
I figured it won't hurt. Why else would they make it? There's many companies to pick from.
My only fear was that if it had a lot of sludge, and a flush was too aggressively cleaning, that it would knock loose bits of sludge and circulate them in the oil to where it could get sucked into the pickup tube strainer and clog it, starving oil flow causing low oil pressure, which is damaging.
But I doubt it happened. Engine still runs. Never had a red low oil pressure warning light.
And that flush said idle it then drain oil. They all have different instructions.
Some people add ATF. Or fill the crank with ATF or diesel, crank it, the drain it. Then some quick cheap dino oil cycles. I've never done it.
My engine looks clean inside and it'll probably stay that way if I keep up with OCI's.
It doesn't have yellow varnish that M1 causes in some engines. So I probably won't do further flushes because it won't get any cleaner and they'd be a waste of money.

Good oil has cleaning effect. From detergents in it. Slowly, gradually, and gently cleaning. That's another way to do it.
Aggressive flush? Might knock sludge loose with it working in under 200 miles.
Oil changes? It's slower. 5,000 miles or whatever. Less likely to do that.
Depends how lucky you feel
Frequency can also help. That can change the price. $12 jug every 3k costs more than $12 jug at 5k.

 

OP why not use a Toyota oil filter? Probably cheaper and better.....

 

I'm sure it is

K&N seems like just some company that came out to produce overpriced engine air filters with oil that destroys your MAF sensor

 

Spot on!!

 

Leave the miracle in a can crap on the shelf.

Just use oil that matches the API (American Petroleum Institute) grade as stated in the Owner's Manual. On the same page will state the proper viscosity matched with ambient temperatures. Then just follow the recommended change interval. All will be fine.

Truth, Dino or Syn is fine. Just follow the API, Viscosity and change interval.

The best filters are Toyota, WIX, NAPA, Bosch, ACDelco.

 

Cause I don't feel like driving all the way to the dealer for a filter, also isn't the micron level for filtration better on the K&N? Does anyone on this thread now any more about this as far as comparing K&N, Mobil1, Swix, Toyota, etc...

 

My dealer is about 20 min away and they mark them up. I bought 10 or 12 from mcgeorge toyota along with other maintenance stuff and had them shipped to my door. Not sure what to say about the micron filtration, is more better ? Will it clog sooner ? Does it have a anti drain back valve , does it have a bypass ,is the o ring lubed.. maybe it's better but I do know the Toyota filter was engineered/designed for Toyota. I'm sure this discussion has 10 threads about it. Good luck.

 

There is more to filtration than micron size. That is less than half the story.

You should do research about filtration to get familiar with all the terms. Then you can turn to oil filter design.

Then reviews of different brands.

In the end, you'll be looking at Toyota, WIX, NAPA, Bosch and ACDelco

 

Beck in the dark ages oil had a paraffin base and yes it slugged up. But time marches on and that is no longer an issue. Two Tacoma pickups with 300+K and the newest one at 130K whatever was on sale at walmart with a brand name was plenty good enough.