Motor BLEW UP...Used or Rebuilt replacement?

OK, so I swapped in a used 1grfe with 70k miles. I paid $3600 out of the door after taxes. And spend about $400 on the alternator, starter, fluids, rad, random things. SO right around $4000 for the complete replacement. I'm sure I could have saved a few bucks (it was about a 50/50 split from your feedback between a rebuilt motor or used)...

...but I'm happy with it and I'm glad to have a working motor and 80k fewer miles than before! I went with a used motor because there were 4 available within a 30-minute drive and it came with a 6-month warranty and the motor I went with was dealer maintained and the CarFax was current and looked solid. Delivery was included and so was the pickup of the old motor. $300 core charge. I used car-part.com to find a local used motor dealer.

She runs like a top and the replacement was straightforward and took us 2.5 days in the shop. No issues at all. I probably could have reused my starter, alternator, and rad (and hoses), but while I was there I figured just spend the $$ and do it now. After driving a few miles on the new motor and looking at the oil, it is still clear. Usually your new oil will look dark after running the motor for a minute because of gunk, but mine is still clear after miles of driving. Pretty good sign and back up the Carfax that showed regular oil changes and Toyota recommended maintenance at 30k 60k etc..

I ended up pulling the tranny before pulling the motor. It made it easier to get it out of the way and work from the front and back of the motor.

This was my first time, so I'm sure there is a more efficient way, but for my first time, 2.5 days with a buddy wasn't bad.

Anyway, if anyone finds this post, and they are in the same situation. I'd be happy to answer questions via DM.

The pic below to the left is right before pulling the motor. On the bottom right is the new motor (and dirty airbox from the old motor lol).

Cheers!

TLDR, I have a 2008 Tacoma with a 1GR-FE that blew a head gasket. The reason why...doesn't matter.

So now I'm at a crossroads with 2 options that I believe will work best for me:

Option 1: Getting a rebuilt engine from an online retailer.

Option 2: Getting a used motor with under 70k miles.


Option 1 is around $2600 base + $250 shipping + $500 core charge. So around $3350 not including all the accessories, gaskets, and intake manifold. Lets tack on an additional $700-$1000 for all the pulleys, water pump, alternator, starter, etc. In the fine print, you will see that the warranty requires a new intake manifold, and you have to return your motor to them and pay 1/2 of the shipping charges to get the $500 back, so really you only get back like $250 for the core charge. And you dont know what internals are in it.

Option 2 is between $2500-$4000 depending on mileage (40k-100k). They provide a carfax to verify mileage and can provide images of the truck's odometer. I found a few places local to me that offer a 6-month warranty on the motor, so im going to check them out this week.

I'm leaning towards Option 2 because all I have to do is buy the motor. Maybe replace the starter, alternator, and pulleys and bolt it in. No core charge, no shipping my motor back, etc. So I can pull all the accessories off my motor, which are still in great shape.


I found an engine from a 2011 Tacoma with 70k miles on it. Ran a carfax and it has maintenance history (regular oil changes), including a 50k and 60k service (actually done at 69k per the carfax history report) right before it was totaled at 70k. The Carfax indicates it was maintained at the dealer through its entire life and only had 2 owners, so it's looking like a solid runner, and it comes with a 6-month warranty.

Thanks!

 

Used anything is a crap shoot.

 

I’d go low mileage used myself.

 

I would also look at LKQ for a complete used engine.

https://www.lkqonline.com/

 

I'd go with a used engine from a wrecking yard local to you. Then if there's a problem, you can go deal with them directly.

 

Look for a low milage wreck ... side or rear impact . I always like to see what my donor truck has to give .

 

Check out Jasper Engines. They might have exactly what you need and they are known for reliability. Probably will have to call them for a quote though.

 

By a new crate motor !!!!

 

Id also go low mileage used. There is no telling what kind of cheap parts they use in a rebuilt long block. Seems like to me a toyota motor is a safer bet. At least it started out with quality parts even if it's lightly used

 

LS1 swap

 

My experience with rebuilt engines has not been good. I had an F250 that had a rebuilt engine in it when I bought it. It was a POS. Rebuilt as cheaply as possible with mismatched parts.
I would go with a used engine first.
My brother's WRX burned some valves (the valve guides can move so the valves don't close completely). A used engine of unknown quality cost $4000, a rebuild by a good machine shop cost $4000.
After what I've seen I would not buy a rebuilt engine without talking to the re-builders and seeing their operation.

 

Car-part.com is a good resource to search salvage yards near you

 

As mentioned I would go with a new rebuilt crate motor . Doing this you have a brand new motor with 0 miles on it . Also crate motors can be built to your specifications and can be built as a stroker motor to increase hp and torque #'s

Also your option #1 scenario is a excellent deal at $4k

I would also seriously trust a Racing engine machine shop over some no name machine shop

 

You can't repair the head gaskit?

 

Do I smell a Cummins swap!?

 

No rebuilt engine will be as good as a used factory pull-out engine with 100k or less on it.

 

If block or head is out of spec . Motor must be replaced .

 

My engines rebuilt by a top quality machine shop including balancing were better than a factory engine.
However what you say is true of most rebuilt engines.

 

Option 3: take it to a local-ish shop that is well respected and have them rebuild your engine with quality, OEM parts if you want that. This is what I did when I bought my lemon from a shady, a$$h0l3 dealer.
Option 4:

Disagree. Quickly and cheaply "rebuild" engines may fit this description though.

 

6 or 4 cyl?

Consider a repair of the head gasket(s?) as @koditten asked, and even reman head(s) if needed

You give no indicators that the bottom end is bad. Or do you have info on that you didn't share?

These guys should be able to help with the head(s). I've had great luck with them. https://www.cylinder-heads.com/