Morel Ip Uni 82 2 way 8 inch mid bass driver

Just throwing this at y’all if you’re looking to replace your front speakers this might be the new best option within a $500 budget not including an amp.
If you’re going this direction you must add an amp to make the best of these.
Is going to be worth the effort !!

 

there's also the dayton shallow 6" and 10"
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-LW150-4-6-Low-Profile-Woofer-4-Ohms-295-255?quantity=1
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...ofile-Subwoofer-Dual-4-Ohm-295-251?quantity=1

or the illusion audio carbon line; c4/c5/c6/c8, or luccent line; l5/l6, which all ironically have more forward-mounting problems due to the forward magnet than other designs.
https://www.illusionaudio-america.com/


though typically, stepping above a 6" woofer, the bass improves at the cost of midrange clarity, as the 8+" woofer can't move or articulate vocals as clearly, so 3-way setups become much more common to create a better vocal presence.

 

Well I’m officially going 8 3/4 on my Tacoma just pick the morel set today and it is massive I know it will be challenging but definitely looking forward to it. I’ve heard great reviews about the SQ from Morel so I’m anxious to start cutting panels or whatever it takes to accomodate the mid bass lol!
I’ll keep you updated and see how it turns out

 

i'l be honest-- a lot of morel's car audio stuff really aggravates me with their specifications. i can't find the elate ti specs anymore, but their home audio caw9 has extremely similar published specifications, that annoy me just as much.
https://www.parts-express.com/Morel-CAW938-9-Cast-Frame-Woofer-297-086?quantity=1

for instance, they're claiming a max power rating of 1,000, but an rms rating of 150w? something is seriously off here, especially at the prices they're commanding. one cannot fundamentally run 1000w into the speaker and get a continuous rating of only 150w. they're playing games and overinflating numbers to appear more dramatic..

and even more aggravating, looking up the caw9 specification sheet, their frequency response chart only displays 100hz-20,000hz. the major dip before 900hz isn't all that surprising for a large format woofer, but to intentionally omit the entire bottom half of a response chart for a large format woofer has got to be some sort of major sin.



as far as the midrange-- the felt on the rear is going to be part of the acoustic surface. you'll need to play around with controlling the air around the mid to alter the tone to your liking. backing up to a reflective surface can make it seem 'larger' but more echo-y, but some amount of fiberglass matting can keep tamp down those resonances to keep the echo's to a minimum. seeing the response of the caw9, a good intial start would be to plan to low-pass the 9" from 700hz, and have the midrange pick up 650hz-2khz, where your main tweeter will pick up from there.

 

Sound man your absolutely right I’ve been looking even from Morel what type amp they recommend and can not find it anywhere.
I was going to use a 6 channel amp but the crossovers have two inputs only
I’m planning to use a 4 channel amp audison SR 4.500 which puts out about 130 watts per channel at least as a starting point.
I was also looking at the Morel 45 anniversary edition which is rated 2 channels at 150 w per channel
Since I’m confused I sent an email to Morel to see their recommendation hope to get a response soon. Otherwise I’ll start with the 4 channel amp

 

to use the included crossovers, you need only a 2-channel amp. this is good and bad, sort of like the engine tune on your truck-- toyota engineers spent a lot of time and money optimizing it. but how many people swear a tune solved all their problems?

this is no different. using the included crossover, you're using morel's concept of what is 'best'. maybe it works great for you, but personally, once i'm throwing comma's of money around, settling for single simple pre-packaged solution is the last thing i want.

i think you're on the right track with a 6 channel amp, around 110-200w rms/channel. the next step is to either decide if you want to do an amp with an integrated dsp like the audison AP F8.9 bit, or audio control D6.1200, or take your pick of a separate dsp like the dayon audio dsp4080, or minidsp C-DSP 8x12 V2.0, connected to your choice of amplifiers.

realistically, the only thing you'll need 100+ watts for will be the door woofers. the midranges, and tweeters will both have a much lower wattage sensitivity, so you could even do one beefy 2-channel amp, with a lower power 4-channel amp for the rest of the set.

 

Soundman, Thanks for your feed back I opened the door panels and surprisingly the 8 3/4 mid bass drivers fit without touching the windows so one problem solved.
As your recommendation for the amp I have a way to push almost 450 watts @ 4 ohms in to the crossover´s mid bass input channels with the SR 4.500 ( that is 4 channel bridged in to 2 channels)
with the SR 6.600 channels from the 6 channel Audison at around 85 watts each channel
Channels 1 & 2 will feed 85 watts @ 4 ohms in to crossover input for mids and tweets
Chanels 3 & 4 will run my Audison Voce 6.5 components in the rear doors with their passive crossover and
Chanels 5 & 6 will run bridged 600 watts in to my 10 inch 2 ohm Audison subwoofer
Something I’m really looking forward is that the 6.600 Audison am- is the newer version and it is rated as HI-RES
From previous experience with a kenwood Hi-Res amp I could tell the difference and I’m hoping this may be a good fit for my ears
I also have a Mosconi DSP although is only a 6 channel DSP I could use it to tune up to 6 channels of the whole system but unfortunately would live out 4 channels of the system that was my main reason for staying away from using the DSP since I have the passive crossovers.
Any way thank you for your attention on my comments hope to hear from you thanks

 

Here are the updated pictures of the new set up
The APB Audison sub behind the rear seats, the Audison Voce components for the rear doors and the Morel three way for the front doors and dashboard

 

While I wait to customize the a pillars for my other Tacoma truck I went ahead and installed the morel mid bass drivers. These are the BMW application mid bass drivers
I was a bit hesitant how cohesive the 8 inch mid bass morels with the 3.5 inch Audio control coaxials and so far I am very pleased with my very basic tuning skills they do sound great and for once I feel the difference a great mid bass does to your music.
Several mistakes I know and my abs brackets are far from being acceptable to many but I just wasn’t willing to pay someone 2-300 dollar just to route some holes so I did it myself. I also made a mistake with one of the screw holes on the mid bass driver so I had to drill a second hole.
Well if I don’t tell you no one would will ever know
Let me know what you think

 

looks good!

another secret source for door panel pieces is dollar store cutting boards

your first couple adapter plates are always rough, but if they work, they work. but that's a great place to hone your skills, as it really doesn't matter unless you can see it!

 

Didn’t though about the cutting boards it may save in materials though!
I’m definitely thinking about getting a routing table, with the ideas I’ve been thinking and all the adapters for my next project I think it will be worth the investment also I’ve seen they have different matrix circle sets to make holes at the right size and stuff so I may give in.
I brought the rough cut and to a shop and they were asking 200$ + so I thought it was way overpriced or nobody wanted to do it.
Any how this project is definitely brightening things out for me and think I will need a very strong amp for my mid bass drivers in my other project at least 150 watts or more to clean out the signal. Even though I’m running relatively for low volume the signal is not strong enough and I’m catching some distortion.
Any how so far I can live with the way it sounds
Definitely way fuller sound in the front and I also been moving my sub woofer in different areas including in the front passenger’s floor and now I see the need to add a front sub so who knows pretty soon I might add one in the glove compartment lol!
Is a never ending story!!

 

i use a rigid model, but all/any of them work just fine, especially older dirt cheap garage sale finds-- as long as the bearings spin smooth, it'll do everything you really need. there's really no benefit to a new model over a 30 year old model...

personally, i like using a handheld router over a table because it's more compact and easier to stow away when i'm not building anything-which is more often than not. router tables take up a ton of space otherwise. i also don't like the face-down part of router tables. using a hand-held router, i can better watch the cut as it progresses, and i find things like radiuses or round-overs are easier to gauge by eye, where a table requires a more specific measured setup.

there's just as many jigs and setups available for handheld routers as there are for tables. i use a parts express jig that screws to the bottom of my router for circles.

though i've also made plenty do with nothing more than repeated cuts with a large hole saw and dremel to smooth the edges as well...

how much power are you running now? the distortion thing surprises me. what gear/settings are you running again?

 

I’m using a 5 channel amp JL audio 1000/5 v2 it’s rated at 60 watts for the front channels since the subs are 2 ohm drivers they’re pulling around 80-100 watts I feel for the way it sounds need at least 125-150watts just so they sound cleaner.

 

saw your post in the 'show off your subs' section. i think i have some explanation for you based on the settings you listed.

so just to clarify, you're running a 70hz high pass at 24db/oct, 700hz low pass on the door subs, and then the dash mids pick up 450hz high pass, with your sub running a 80hz low pass? and then adjusted the eq by ear to make it sound decent?

personally, it sounds like you're going really extreme with your crossover settings. you didn't list the slope of the other speakers, so i can't comment on where those are, but i can give some baselines.

first, i would suggest to relax way back. the drivers you've got are really great speakers, and all of them will handle frequencies well outside your crossover settings.

set your eq to flat for starters, then start playing with the natural roll-off of the drivers. for instance, my peerless door woofers really love to not have any crossover at all, and play best using their natural roll-off. i never run them more than a 6db/oct.

for the door woofers, they're going to like digging deep given the size, with a physical limitation that they'll run out of steam around 1-2khz. going off my OE response chart, their natural resonance is around 50hz, so i would recommend changing the crossover slope to 6db/oct high pass, around 50hz(they might even be happy going down to 40hz), and a 500hz low pass, but play with a 6-12db/oct slope difference--there will be a slight tone difference. i normally don't go above 12db/oct for transition reasons, 18/24 tends to make for a more drastic 'on/off' tone between drivers, which can make different speakers sound over-emphasized(ie, male vocals end up distinctly at my feet, where the same bands female vocals end up distinctly on my dash)-- the point of all this is that each speaker should disappear into a cohesive and singular tone/image. the issue with transitioning around the 400-700hz region is that it's getting right into the meat of the vocal range, so extremely harsh transitions between drivers here can make for an almost 'warbling' as a vocals transition between one set of speakers to the other.

for your dash speakers, i think the 400hz crossover point is good, i would recommend 12db/oct for that, though given the larger format 3.5", they might very well be happier with a 6db/oct, either will allow nice blending, while ensuring adequate bass-blocking. you're mostly limited by the acoustics of the dash in this case-- 3.5" drivers in that location can extremely safely be ran as low as 150hz with a 6db/oct slope, but much of that range can be unusable due to the lack of an enclosure there and the resonances off the dash plastics--though sometimes the dash plastics can increase the lower resonances that make it worthwhile. you could play with running them as low as 200hz to try to bring as much vocals up front as possible, but it will likely be met with limited success.

as for the sub, 80hz is fine, normally that gets a 12db/oct low pass, and this is a case where i typically run a 18 or 24 db/oct high pass as a subsonic filter. usually around 25-35hz, most subs are unusable in that range anyways, so it's better to sharply cut those frequencies out to save the amp power and reduce the sub from over-extending.

you're currently at a decent power level, i don't believe that bumping the power by even 100w is going to make a big difference in your needs. i'm more convinced that your initial crossover settings made sounds like distortion, but not actually distortion.

now that the speakers are all installed, it's time to run fast and break some stuff!

it's how i figured out where to set my general baselines . none of it is ever perfect, but usually enough to get you into the ballpark. you really can't hurt anything as long as you keep the volume to a moderate level. if the above sounds a little better than your initial setup, expand all the settings another 50-100hz further and let it ride for a little while.

 

Man I tried not sure if followed to the dot but tried to follow your recommendations and ai did get a huge improvement I can feel my speakers breathing sort of speak though. My gains are not as high and was able to handle that high volume distortion here are some pictures of my settings hope they make sense
I’ll start with the 3.5 inch than the 8 inch in the doors and las my the sub see what you think

 

Sorry here they are

 

i'm not going to comment much on the eq portion, as that's a 'season to taste' thing. i still recommend resetting the eq to flat during setting up the crossovers-- it will allow you to better hear what each speaker is capable of-- adjusting the eq before dialing in the crossovers can sometimes mask issues at louder volumes. otherwise, the way your eq is adjusted looks appropriate, where you've made small, smooth adjustments instead of large drastic adjustments.

i downloaded the mosconi application you're using, fortunately, it allows for offline adjustments, which allows me to tinker and understand what you're dealing with! it's very early in this post for me to know all the in's and outs just yet(but i will!), but if i can, i'll try to build a setup to match to what you have, and hopefully you can import it as a baseline template to play with.

something i find interesting is that all your speakers are set to 180 degrees out of phase--all speakers should be set to 0 degree's, though some subwoofer setups require phase adjustment to properly blend, depending on reflections. also, your distance measurements don't appear accurate, given that the default is 31.5", and i doubt the left-side 3.5" driver is exactly that

this should be the 3.5". right now you have the high pass at 200hz, with a 6db/oct crossover-- because this is the high frequency driver, i would really suggest disabling the low-pass on this. there's no reason to limit this speaker to playing only up to 20,000hz.

i find it interesting here that one driver has an adjusted measurement, but it also has a bump in output level as well, that would indicate to me that the measurement might not be correct. the measured distance should delay each speaker so the sound arrives at you at the same time, but that should also mean the output level is very similar as well.

as far as adjusting the output level on the dsp, there's different individual idea's behind it. some people believe it's best to always do as much adjustment as possible on the amp itself to minimize noise. others believe it can be beneficial to spread the overall gain across the different devices so that the amp isn't doing all of the heavy lifting, which can help reduce noise in the amplifiers output.

take either with a grain of salt-- some setups have different noise, i've done both. some amps are happier handling everything themselves, others start adding hissing noise to the output, and using the dsp output adjustment is more beneficial.

the main adjustments i've made in the file for the 3.5" are:
distance:all at default 31.5"
level: matched your previous at 7.0db and 7.5db
phase: 0 degrees
high pass: 200hz, butterworth @6 db/oct
low pass: off

i believe these should be the 8" door woofers. they appear to be setup as i was indicating. you can play with using a 6db/oct or 12db/oct crossover, sometimes it makes a difference, sometimes it doesn't.

adjustments i've made here are:
distance: default 31.5"
level: matched your previous at 7.0
phase: 0 degrees
high pass: 40hz, butterworth, 12db/oct
low pass: 800hz, butterworth, 12db/oct

with this being the sub, it looks like i lost you a little here. the way you have it set up, the sub will only start playing above 40hz, but up to 110hz.

i'm changing this so the sub will start playing at 25hz, and stop at 100hz. 100hz is a very generic baseline--every setup is different. the concept here is to set it so that the bass seems like it coming from in front of you. if it blends properly with the front speakers, it will seem like everything comes from the front speakers. this is going to be a combination of frequency(typically somewhere between 60-120hz), and phase(0 or 180). sometimes one or the other, sometimes both. there's no definite rule to this.

i'm also making an adjustment in the 'mix' tab for output channels 5/6. i'm setting both channels to take an equal input from inputs 1&2. while many amps combine the signals, i prefer to do it at the dsp level specifically so i know they're being combined properly. this ensures that any bass in either the left or right channels will always go to the subwoofer. but it also allows you to only need to run 1 rca cable to the sub amp portion.

changes:
mix: 100% input from channels 1&2 to both outputs 5&6
distance: default 31.5"
level: matched at 8.0
phase: 0 degrees
high pass: 25hz at 24db/oct
low pass: 100hz at 12db


attached is the file you can load in as a different preset, so you don't lose all of your current settings.

 

That’s right man I haven’t measured the distances correctly I’ll work on that and if you are able to create a set up that would be awesome I’ll definitely give it a try.
So far everything you’ve commented and asked me to try has made a huge difference so thanks in advance for all your help.
I will be embracing a new project on my other Tacoma so I will reach out to you if you don’t mind lol

 

Well I did myself a favor and reset the DSP to the original settings and started from scratch
I have to say I’ve had been keeping previous settings from two different audio guys that helped me with it
I’ll say this imhappier with the way I did it myself I freed all the frequencies and opened up the crossover points to test the speakers capacity
The Audio control 3.5 inch coxials I only had to cut it above 375 hz to block the bass notes
I set the Morel mid bass drivers from 70 hz up to 900 no problem at all I did reduced the frequencies over 500 hz slightly lower and my
10 inch Audison sub I left at 50 hz to 120hz pretty much the same as before but a lot clearer as I removed previous filters set by the runners.
With very little running this time the whole system sounds much cleaner and finally the sound is up above the dashboard and the mid bass clean and strong. I’ll do my best recording a quick video sample and try capturing the details I’ll post the video on YouTube some time soon.
Special thanks to, soundman98 for all your ideas it really made the small system come alive!
Not sure where do you live but if we’re close from me in Sacramento California by I can definitely come by and let you listen to it
Thanks man

 

good idea returning everything back to default. all too often mistakes can easily compound on other mistakes and make things work even worse than before!

glad you're on the right track, enjoy the 'new' system!