McCand's build thread

Table of contents

Introduction
The Plan

Execution of the plan:

• Onboard Air: Compressor location research, Plumbing plan, Installation
• Bed Cap: Research, Installation
• Suspension Upgrade: Research

(This space reserved for links to future posts)

 

Introduction:

March 2021: This will be my second build. I previously had a , but in Feb, it was rear-ended and totaled. Given that I was going to HAVE to start over again, I figured I'd start with a Tacoma.

I live on the island of Hawai'i, in a rural area, and the Tacoma is a perfect vehicle for here. Unfortunately, everyone else agrees, and since it is a pain to ship cars here, the market is, uh, tight. I spent a while stalking EVERYONE who was selling them, and wound up with 2018 Off-road DCSB.

Meet Galivant:

 

The Plan (last updated 2021-04-30)

My previous 4runner had some goodies:

• ARB air compressor (salvaged)
• Icon shocks
• BFG KO2s
• Rear Storage system (Salvaged, but won't fit in a Tacoma, for obvious reasons.)
• Rooftop shower (air pressurized, salvaged)
• VHF radio (salvaged)

And a few other goodies... but those are the basics of what I want to get back into this vehicle as quickly as the money allows.

But it's worth doing some long range planning:

• Suspension
  • Priority: Highest
  • The Dream: Icon - They worked out great on the 4Runner and I'd happily install them again. (Open to other suggestions though!)
• Tires
  • Priority: Highest
  • The Dream: BFG KO2s. Size TBD
  • Status: Waiting for suspension lift
• Storage
  • Priority: Medium
  • The Dream: RLD Canopy, or perhaps an RSI Smartcap.
  • Status: Still figuring out how to sell this to the boss...
• Armor
  • Sliders - Most of what I do would probably fit under the category of light-to-moderate rock crawling. There are plenty of really rough roads around here and the lava tend to boulder up at just the right height to scrape the pinch welds.
    • Priority: Highest
      
    • The Dream: RCI Bolt-ons (5 degree - the wife needs a step more than I need max clearance)
    • Status: Waiting to build up some free cash after buying the truck.
  • Front bumper
    • Priority: Medium
      
    • The Dream: ARB? Maybe?
  • Rear bumper - So, considering what happened to my LAST vehicle, I want a good rear bumper. However, I also enjoy modern safety features, so I want to keep the backup sensors and BSM if I can. This limits options.
    • Priority: Medium
    • The Dream: Apogee - BSM compatible! Sure would be nice if it had an option for a swing out, but it sounds like they are working on that...
  • Skids
    • Priority: Low
      
    • The Dream: ???
• Electrical
  • Battery upgrade (Dual battery?)
    • Priority: Low
    • Off Grid Engineering w/ Redarc (or equivalent)
• Built-in Accessories
  • Air compressor and hose system
    • Priority: Highest
    • Status: Installed!
    • Comments: There are lots of choices for mounting an ARB twin. I've written a separate post discussing them and their pros and cons.
  • Power lock for the tailgate
    • Priority: As needed to secure storage
    • The Dream: Pop&Lock
    • Status: Waiting.
  • VHF Radio
    • Priority: Medium
    • Status: I have it, need to figure out where it and the antenna will be mounted.
  • Shower
    • Priority: Medium
    • Status: I have it, but may need to rebuild it to fit the Tacoma.
• Other Accessories
  • Key fob
    • Priority: Irrelevant!
    • The Dream: Meso Minimalist
    • Status: DONE!

 

Where, Oh Where, will I mount my air compressor?

I love having an air compressor! I'm sure I'm preaching to the choir here, but in addition to all the perfectly sufficient reasons like "I can air up and down on the trail" and "I can fix flats myself", there are plenty of other uses:

• Take pool toys to the beach and not have to pass out while blowing them up.
• Top off bike tires.
• Pressurize my built in shower (also incredibly useful at the beach, and will be the subject of another post, someday).
• Impress friends (and induce jealousy in enemies).
• Run your air lockers.
• And more!

I see a compressor as critical safety equipment, and it is literally the first mod of substance I make to each of my rigs. If you still are not sold on one, then there may be something terribly wrong with you. The rest of this post is probably not for you.

ARB makes a very popular range of compressors. I splurged a bit and have found myself with a 12V ARB Twin (CKMTA12). I like the twin because it has a 100% duty cycle, and relatively high volume of output, and is relatively affordable (at least compared to an Oasis). If you are reading this, you probably know that ARBs have a pretty strong following among off-roading enthusiasts. While there are other compressor brands that are popular, like Viair, this post is all about where I can mount the an ARB. For a 3rd gen Tacoma, there are lots of options for where you can put them. Obviously, some of these may not be an option depending on your model.

All of the following are off-the-shelf options for a 3rd Gen Tacoma - you won't need to fabricate anything.

• In a box (a portable install, as we would say) - Example: ARB P/N CKMTP12
• In the Cab
  • Under the Driver or Passenger's seat - Example: Desert Does It Under Seat Compressor Mount
  • Behind the rear seats (Double cab) - Example: Tacoma Pros ARB Dual Compressor In Cab Mount
• In the driver's side bed compartment - Example: Expedition Essentials Bedside Compressor Mount or ARB P/N 3523010
• In the Engine bay (Multiple options):
  • Passenger's side, near the firewall - Example: Slee P/N SOK0038 or Mountain Offroad P/N ARBTACO3-BLACK
  • Driver's side, near the fuse box- Example:
  • Between the grille and the radiator - Example: R4T Behind grille air compressor Mount
  • Next to the windshield washer fluid tank - Example: Slee P/N SOK0002

Obviously, you can also roll your own. Equally obviously, I cannot personally foresee what genius idea you (yes, you) have in mind, but feel free to tell me! (I like pictures)

So let's talk about options:

Portable install
ARB sells a pre-assembled kit for this. It's a rugged pelican-style that has the compressor mounted inside. If you need air, you unpack the thing, hook it up to your battery using come jumper cable-style connectors, and get compressing. As an added bonus, the ARB unit comes with a 1 gallon air tank, an accessory organizer, a hose, an inflator, and a blow gun.

Pros:

1. A portable unit is nice in that you can take it directly to where you need it to be. If the vehicle with a flat is not your vehicle and is more than one air hose's length away, then things can be a bit tough. With a portable unit, all you have to do is schlep it over to the affected vehicle and hook it in.
2. Comes with a small air tank, which if left charged, can speed up inflating a tire. Compressors are great, but they aren't particularly fast. If standing around is something you cannot abide, having a charged tank may help. (And maybe you should look into a power tank instead?)

Cons:

1. This will not be useful (in the as-delivered configuration) for any built-in accessories, like air lockers.
2. any time you want to use this, you will have to retrieve it and hook it up before any compressing action occurs.
3. It's not mounted, so it is possible to leave without it.

My take
This is a super nice piece of kit, but it's not for me. I want something that is in the truck all the time, and I can start with the push of a button. I like the idea of being able to take the compressor where it is needed, but I intend to have a small portable tank for that. I can carry the tank where it is needed, inflate, and refill back at my rig as needed.​

----------------------------
In-Cab: Under Passenger Seat
This is a neat idea with some caveats. There is some unused space under the driver's and passenger's seats, so with a little effort, we can put a compressor in there! The catch is that it's not quite enough room, so you have to install some seat risers (sorry, "seat jackers") in order to make it happen.

Pros:

1. Keeps your air compressor in a more controlled environment

Cons:

1. You have to raise your seats to do this. I am already tall enough, and I don't want to be any closer to the ceiling, either in the driver's seat or when riding shotgun.
2. Compressors are noisy, and I don't hate my passengers. If conditions are bad, I want to be able to have people in the cab and not subject them to the full volume of the compressor.
3. Unless you want to do some plumbing, you have to open a door or window to use the compressor. In bad weather, this is less than ideal

My take
Clever, and if I rarely had passengers, I'd consider it, but again, this is not for me.

----------------------------
In-Cab: Rear Seat Install
You can put your compressor in the space behind the rear seats.

Pros:

1. like the previous option, this keeps your air compressor in a more controlled environment

Cons:

1. You have to cut the molded plastic lining away to install this.
2. Again, compressors are noisy, and I don't hate my passengers. If conditions are bad, I want to be able to have people in the cab and not subject them to the full volume of the compressor.
3. Also again, unless you want to do some plumbing, you have to open a door or window to use the compressor. In bad weather, this is less than ideal

My take
I have a strong preference not to make substantial modifications to paneling. This is due in part to my desire to preserve resale value of the vehicle, which I will likely remove the compressor from. In addition, I want to be able to use the compressor without bothering passengers too much, or having to shift gear and open doors to access.

----------------------------
In the driver's side bed compartment
There are several options here - ARB makes a mount especially for this, and expedition essentials makes one as well.

Pros:

1. Makes good use of otherwise unusable space inside the bed wall.
2. Compressor is accessible without opening cab or hood.

Cons:

1. You have to cut the molded plastic lining away to install this.
2. Unless you have a locking bed cover of some sort, this isn't really a secure Location.
3. Accessing the compressor may be difficult if you have significant amounts of gear in the bed, or if you have a shelving system of some sort.

My take
Tempting, but I want to have a shelving unit in my truck bed at some point, and that may make things awkward.

----------------------------
In the Engine Bay: Passenger side:
There is a significant amount of space available in the engine bay at this location, and a variety of brackets are available to fit there. Here is the Slee Offroad bracket install:


Here's Mountain Offroad's Bracket:

Pros:

1. Keeps the compressor in with the other noisy stuff in the engine bay.
2. Tank and tankless options available

Cons:

1. Uses space that you might want for something else (like a dual battery system)

My take
If I was not planning to run dual batteries at some point, I'd be on this like white on rice.

----------------------------
In the Engine Bay: Driver's side:
There is a somewhat less space available on this side, but it is enough to slip the compressor in there.

Pros:

1. Keeps the compressor in with the other noisy stuff in the engine bay.

Cons:

1. May make fuse box hard to access (Update: Now that I have this bracket, I can see how this works - the compressor can be removed relatively easily by loosening two bolts and removing two screws. It's not "easy" but it allows reasonably quick access to the fuses - just don't forget your tools!)

My take
As of the time of writing, this is what I intend to do. It leaves space on the passenger's side for my future dual battery, and keeps the compressor in the hood where I want it. things are a little tight, so I'll probably re-route the outlet to somewhere more practical. I'd like to have an outlet in both the front and rear of the vehicle. If I do it right, I shouldn't need to pop the hood at all to use the compressor.

----------------------------
Between the grille and the radiator
There is a significant amount of empty space between the Tacoma's grille and the radiator. This was a supprise for me when I first started to look at these trucks - why?!? This has all the hallmarks of an industrial designer who wanted a certain (more agressive) look, and "who cares" if we have this nice compact engine. But, some enterprising lad or lass figured out that a compressor will fit in there:

Pros:

1. Keeps the compressor in with the other noisy stuff in the engine bay.
2. Leaves ALL the other spaces open for stuff.

Cons:

1. Reduces airflow to the radiator
2. Requires drilling

My take
I am of two minds about this. On one hand, there is SO MUCH SPACE in there. On the other hand, I am incredibly nervous about reducing airflow to the radiator. I live in a hot place, and I'm going to be asking this truck to work hard, and I'd really rather not have any temperature problems. I'm going to pass on this, but I can sure see the temptation.

----------------------------
Next to the windshield washer fluid tank
Warning: All of the other suggestions here are bolt-on products, with no fabrication needed other than possibly trimming some plastic out of the way or putting some riv-nuts. This will require at least some minor metal fabrication. Slee designed this bracket for 2nd Gen Tacomas, but at least one person (@PcBuilder14, who has a pretty sweet build thread, incidentially) has managed to get it to play nicely in a 3rd gen. Here's the stock Slee (2nd Gen) install:


And here's what @PcBuilder14 put together:

Note the additional strap tying it to the front framework.

Pros:

1. Keeps the compressor in with the other noisy stuff in the engine bay.
2. Leaves ALL the other spaces open for stuff.

Cons:

1. Requires additional fabrication (and I'm tired)
2. Access looks tight pretty tight.
3. May not fit all 3rd Gens. Mine's got the power steering fluid reservoir in that location.

My take
I like it, but am not up to relocating the power steering fluid reservoir right now. If I decide to revisit my compressor placement, I'm definitely going to take a close look at this.

----------------------------
After all that research, I'm planning on going with the Driver's side engine bay mount. It makes things a little tight to access the fuse box, but I can probably live with that, and it leaves my options open for future electrical enhancements. I'll probably get a small portable tank that can be filled and transported to a stranded vehicle as needed, and that will give me the perks of the portable setup without having to start from scratch each time.

 

Alright, Now that I've picked where the compressor is going to be located, what do I do now?

Well, I need to figure out how I want to be able to access it, of course!

As I see it, there are three, maybe four options of interest.

1. Slap a quick disconnect on compressor and call it a day. This is certainly the fastest, easiest option, and would be perfectly serviceable.
2. Add some plumbing, giving me access to compressed air ports in more convenient points than the engine bay. This is what I did for my 4Runner (RIP, Bilbo ). It was great, but the access points were not quite as accessible as I'd wished.
3. In addition to some plumbing, add some other hardware to make airing up and down faster and more convenient. This sounds like fun!
4. Try to hack together a CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System). While this sounds like the ultimate in convenience, I'll keep this in mind for when I feel like replacing all the axles, and hacking who-knows-what-else, and have a large stack of cash to burn. (Just to make myself feel better about not doing this, I'm going to go read reviews of how leaky and troublesome the rotating air seals can be.)

Alright. I've spent my time rummaging through the internets, and there's some folks who have a pretty nice version of Option 3 available. Rago Fabrications (who makes the air compressor bracket I use) that does exactly this! ("The Wifey Air System" was developed by "Sponsored by Wifey" for his 4Runner, but he worked with Rago to make a kit that can be installed on a Tacoma as well.) UpDownAir also makes a slick system as well that looks like it would have essentailly identical performance to the Wifey Air System.

Here's a layout of the Wifey Air System:


This is pretty slick - there's a lot to like!

• Integrates nicely with my compressor mount.
• Sends air to right by the tires, right where you are most likely to need it!
• Allows all the tires to be aired up or down at the same time.
• There's a nifty over-pressure valve to keep you from exploding your tires!

There are a couple of things I don't like:

• I'm not a huge fan of the plastic air lines. Black rubber just seems more real to me. I live in a world filled with sharp rocks and careless children, and I just don't trust those thin plastic air lines much.
• The air access points at the wheels are set up with Schrader valves, rather than the standard quick-disconnect. This is convenient if the only thing you are going to do is hook them up to is a tire, but it is going to result in lower than necessary airflow when airing down, and isn't really practical if you want to do something that requires higher air flow or pressures.
• The air pressure at at the access points is limited by the over-pressure valve. In the Rago incarnation, all air out of the compressor is limited to the pressures set in the over-pressure release valve - so if you want to fill a tank with 90 psi air, you might be out of luck, unless you adjust your valve (new spring) and are willing to risk damaging your gauge.
• The air path for equalizing tire pressure is not ideal. (Let me be really clear here, this is a dumb nitpicking on my behalf, which may be totally worthless. Being patient will completely solve this problem!)

Alright. Whelp, what to do? Let's reconfigure things to get all the good stuff, and none of the bad stuff!

Here's my wants for the modified system:

1. I want to keep the centralized air up/down design of the Wifey system.
2. I want to use 3/8" ID rubber hose, barbed fittings, and hose clamps, rather than 3/8" OD plastic hose with push-on fittings. I recognize that this is a personal preference, and you are welcome to be wrong, if that makes you happy.
3. I want every point of access to the air system to be a standard quick-disconnect, so that I can hook up an air hose to any one that I decide is most convenient at the moment.
4. I want to be able to run high pressure (Arb twin max pressure is: 150 psi) air to any access point, without running multiple hoses everywhere.
5. I want to leave the option open for something ridiculous (I'll tell you later) at the rear of the truck. For the moment, I'm going to plan on having an air access point on the rear bumper near the license plate.
6. I want a hose loop to link all of the air access points. (This means that air from the compressor could conceivably take at least two paths to each access point.) This will reduce the air resistance of the system, and may allow for faster airing up or down.

Well, here's my proposed system diagram:


This adds a bit of complexity. There's more Tee fittings and there's a hell of a lot of hose clamps. The nifty bit is that the manifold (blue block with the gauge, OP valve, and dump valve) can be completely disconnected from the system when you want to run high pressure. This means that you don't need to plumb both a low pressure (with OP valve) and a high pressure line!

So, here's what's going to happen: I have about a Scots mile of black rubber hose, and all the fixings that will live in the engine bay. I'm going to get some Rago air mount brackets, and get them installed, then put quick-disconnects in each wheel well. I really like the ARB ones, and will probably use those. Then, I'll make up some short hoses to connect each wheel well port with the relevant wheel, and we'll be ready to go! If I get around to real shenanigans with the rear access port, I'll detail it in a new post.

 

Solid information

I'm doing some research on how to install one in a Letiner Design Pod. If that doesn't work, then ill go to the engine bay. I have the ARB portable with the tank and I just want it on a fix location, ready to go.

 

Nice! Let me know how that goes. Maybe I can start a section with links to how others have handled installs that require further modifications. I actually just finished the running the hose and quick disconnects for my system this last weekend, and need to post the writeup. I'll call this a kick in the pants and see if I can get it done today.

 

Alright, I've been totally lax about posting the outcome, but it was a success!

I bought a kit with the Rago ARB Compressor Mount ( ) and the Wifey Block Mount ( ), but you can buy them separately too. Installing was pretty straight forward using the directions (in video form) that Rago provides. They only suggestion I have is this: Bolt the compressor to the bracket after you've done everything else that can be done. Before that, just use the bare backet to fit things in. Go ahead and install your wiring harnesses and bolt the bracket's support leg down while the compressor is not in the way, then AFTER THE REST IS DONE remove the compressor plate, mount the compressor, and put it back in place. This will save you a lot of effort in moving the compressor in and out of the engine bay as you work on things.

The hose install was generally straightforward, but there were a few tricky bits. Running the hose loop was annoying, and I made a terrible mistake in using some hose I'd had sitting in a corner of the garage for a while. It was very stiff, and installing the tee fittings was horrible. When I'd used it up and switched to a new roll that I'd just bought, everything was MUCH easier. I should have just thrown out the old stuff.

I used the Rago air mounts ( ). In the rear, they mount easily using existing holes in the frame. The passenger side just bolts right in, but the driver side has some brackets using those holes - so I just slipped the air mount in under the bracket and called it good. In the front, there are no convenient mounting holes, so I had to make my own. I really like Rago's stuff, but they don't give any instructions for these mounts, which is unfortunate. My goal in placing these was to make sure that there wouldn't ever be any interference between the UCA or shock and the air coupler.

As I discussed above, the original Wifey system uses Schrader valves, which are certainly low profile, but not particularly great for getting plenty of airflow. I want to be able to use these access points for more than just filling up tires, which means leaving my options open. Instead of the Schrader valves, I put in some ARB air couplers (https://expeditionessentials.com/co...oducts/arb-air-coupler-and-dust-cover-package). These are great! The dust cover keeps crud out of the business end, and they let you just push the hose into place without having to slide a collar back on the coupler. They've got a beefy plastic housing that can take abuse and won't get too hot. I use these everywhere I want air lines. The only downside is that they can be hard to sources at times.

So, now that all the goodies are in place, it was time to test it! I hooked up all the hose whips, opened the dump valve, and aired down from 32 PSI to 24 PSI in 45 seconds. Not too shabby! Switching to inflate, I went from 24 back to 32 PSI in one minute and ten seconds. I'll take it!

In the time since finishing this, I've used the system a couple of times, and it seems rock solid. There doesn't appear to be any leaks in the hose or compressor fittings - with all the valves closed, it will hold pressure for days. There is a slow leak in one of the fittings connected to the manifold though - if I leave it pressurized, it will release all pressure in half an hour or so. I've decided that it isn't a big deal since the manifold is usually disconnected, but one of these days I'll get motivated and fix it.

(Pictures are forthcoming)

 

Well, time for an update. I've been out doing some camping and general work with the rig, and I'm tired of having to worry about people just picking up my toys out of the back of the truck while I'm not looking. So it's time for a bed cap.

What I really want is this:

(From: https://www.na.rsismartcap.com/products/bedreplacement)

But if I buy that, I'll never get to enjoy a moment of it, because I'll have been killed by the good wife. And she knows the judge, so it would be ruled justifiable homicide.

So let's see what I can get that will not result in my being dead.

I want something that:

• fits the truck reasonably well with minimum modifications
• Is not a horrible color (Black will be just fine)
• Has side access - I don't want to have to physically climb into the bed every time I want to grab something that's in the front.
• Lockable
• Can be removed and replaced by two people
• Reasonable roof capacity - I don't have (or want) a RTT, but I want to be able to strap stuff up there without worrying about damage.

Let's see... the usual options are:

• Fiberglass (Leer, Snugtop, A.R.E.)
  • Pros: Good fit, good color selection, side doors are available (but usually extra $)
  • Cons: More susceptible to sun damage than metal, generally has lower rack capacity, Shipping to HI is usually $$$, essentially everything other than the shell is an option ($)
• Fabric (Softopper)
  • Pros: cheap (~$800+$105 shipping), easy to remove/reinstall.
  • Cons: not really secure, Side access is less than ideal, not likely to have long life in tropical sun
• Metal (Alu-Cab, RSI Smartcab, RLD Design, A.R.E.)
  • Pros: Minimum maintenance, maximum security, maximum roof capacity (esp. the RLD!)
  • Cons: Can be really ugly, LONG lead times (months), locks (see discussion below)

I'm going to go with metal here - I live in a place that is pretty hard on equipment, and having something that isn't going to fade out or scratch easily is a huge plus. Of the metal options available, I like the RSI Smartcap the best. It has a major advantage that there is a dealer on the island, and compared to the other options, it can be shipped in pieces for a much lower cost. Beyond that, I like the large side doors, and that it comes with integrated tracks for a roof rack. I don't need side windows, so I'm going to get the Adventure Model, and some roof bars to hold me over until I get a proper rack

The one thing I am concerned about is the door locks. There's quite a bit of negative feedback in the forums:

1. Water collects in them, and they tend to freeze shut in cold weather
2. They cannot be opened from inside the bed, which means you could theoretically be locked in the bed.
3. They all have to be locked individually

Per the scuttlebutt on the forums, RSI is revising the lock design and will have released the new revision by January of this year that addresses the first two problems - and given the lead times I'm hearing about, it is likely that the cap I just ordered will be built and shipped after that time. Even if not, it sounds like the new locks will be available as a drop in replacement. If that upgrade does the trick, well, great!

And if not, I have a 3D printer and some machine tools - I'm perfectly happy to make my own locks. What I really want is to make a system that hooks into the central locking system, so All I have to do is hit the button on my key fob and then all the doors unlock! We'll see how this goes!

 

(This post is reserved for pictures and information about installation)

 

I'm working up a post with suspension upgrade info too...

... Though it may be a bit longer before I get to do that.