Master Cylinder Replacement? Need Help Please!!

Hoping someone here who knows more can point me in the right direction. Truck is a 2010 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab TRD Off Road with 110,000 miles on it. I noticed a spongy brake pedal a few months ago, and took it into my local shop. Shop advised me that the problem was a pressure switch from within the brake booster of the master cylinder (according to a code they pulled from the ABS module). Took it to Toyota who advised me I needed a full master cylinder replacement, as they do not fix particular issues associated with the master cylinder. Cost was upwards of 3000 dollars. The problem is intermittent, it didn't bother me enough to fork over 3000 dollars. Searching the forums, this seems to be a common complaint by several owners.

Fast forward today, I had to get a safety inspection, as I have moved to another state. Shop advised me my truck failed due to the spongy brake, and advised the problem was most likely in the power booster module. I am now forced to repair this item. After calling 8 different shops, most all have advised the only Master Cylinder for the truck is available is from Toyota, and the part is 1400 dollars. I am looking at a repair bill upwards of 2000 dollars with it installed. Has anyone every had this issue before? Are there aftermarket cylinders that are available, or is there anyone who has repaired the switch? Any info anyone has is appreciated!

 

1400? That sounds steep for even Toyota.
www.rockauto.com I see master cylinders with reservoirs that start at $60.
I see the brake booster for $120.

Good God, I do see the 1700 price for the booster/master cylinder from Toyota. They aren't lying.

You need to find yourself a good trusted mechanic, or some good Tacoma owners in your area. I am always suspicious of mechanics throwing a big integrated part at a problem instead of figuring out what's wrong. As you can see from the toyota pics, there aren't any "pressure switches" in the booster. What codes did they pull for the ABS?

 

Yes, that particular type of brake system (with the electronic cylinder) is expensive to replace. The dealer messed mine up during the frame replacement and they ate a $2500 bill to replace it...

 

Do you guys think it is worth attempting to flush the fluid to see if it helps the issue?

 

Try it, it easy and cheap. If not look on rock auto

 

Rock Auto doesnt have it. Only Toyota.

 

my 09 pedal has been spongy from day one compared to my 99

the only thing that gets it better is to drive backwards a few times to get the rears adjusted

simple test is to apply parking break a lil bit and see if pedal is less spongy

 

Junk Yard

 

I did notice after my shop adjusted the brakes about 2 months ago pedal felt great....any info on this? Currently still has spongy brake. Shop said I still had 50% on the rear. Also, ebrake activates near the floor

 

many get into the habit of going backwards slow and not waiting for the vehicle to be stopped by the brakes and that causes them not to adjust

 

They have a bunch

 

All of them say "except with skid plate". The TRD Off Road that model year has both skid plates and fuel tank skid plates, and VSC. They don't have it. Thanks for trying to help though.

 

I'll look into it. Easier option is get the factory part number and give it to a guy at Napa auto and they will cross reference it

 

I have an 05 SR5 and mine was part of an option... Weird

 

reviving this thread, im also thinking my MC is slowly going. Pedal doesnt really stop, it slows down but i can keep pressing it until it touches the floor. Truck does stop though, although not the best.

Anyways, im looking at rock auto for a MC and like the OP, im not seeing anything that doesnt mention skid plates. Why do skid plates matter for a master cylinder? Ive got a TRD Sport, it has VSC , and only the front skid ( not fuel skid). Do you guys know if those MC on rock auto would work?

 

Pedal sinks to the floor? Are you sure it’s the master and not the booster?

 

yea it doesnt sink right away , it seems to stop at a regular distance, but with a bit mroe added pressure it keeps going. I removed the pressure hole from the booster and theres definitely a pop ( proof of it being pressured) so im guessing a leaking master cyl. thoughts?

 

I’m fairly certain the the OR has a different master cylinder than the Sport. Maybe call Toyota for an estimate and see if it’s stupid expensive?

 

oh interesting, any idea why it would have a different one than sport? yea i called today, toyota is quoting me 380 ish ( CAD) , lordco is quoting me 190 for the raybestos one, and rockauto after shipping is like 130

Still so shocked at the talk of 1800$, like what the hell was that all about. What does the OR have that the sport doesnt ( besides the elocker) ?

 

I know that bleeding the brakes on an OR is easier because there’s a electric pump that will pump the fluid out (or something like that). I guess that also makes the master cylinder way more expensive to replace.