master and slave cylinder replacement help

Hey everyone,

I finally decided to replace my master and slave to see if my notchy shifts and spongy break and clutch pedal go away.

I plan on doing this job with a friend this weekend but i have zero experience with this particular job. He's only done a master and a slave on his t-100.

The part that worrys me the most is bleeding the system. Can anyone suggest a thread or give some suggestions to make this install go smooth? I looked on here for a thread but couldn't find a good one.

All help is very appreciated, thanks!

 

Can you post pics and such when you do this

 

Open, in. Close, out. Rinse and repeat.

 

ill probably take some pictures, but as for a detailed step by step I cant promise anything. When I'm doing critical stuff to my truck or make that "no turning back move" i tend to get worried about being able to drive it the next day and focus all my attention to making it derivable again. That mood tends to make me not even touch my phone or camera!

At the very least I'll verbally tell you everything we did.

 

sorry can you elaborate on that mysterious statement. I assume you're talking about getting all the air out of the master?

 

lets try this

 

nipple on the slave... bleed it like a brake. easy peasy.

 

He means:

Press on the clutch pedal.
Open Nipple on the slave cylinder.
Close nipple on the slave cylinder
Release the clutch pedal.

Then repeat the above until the air is out of the system. Make sure the tank does not run low on brake fluid.

 

So hook the new master up and fill the res with fluid? then bleed it through the slave? am I going to have to bleed all the brake lines too? My break pedal and clutch are both spongy.

 

Yes I suppose.

 

allllllrrrriiiight

 

So this past saturday my buddy and I changed my master and slave cylinders. The job was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be.

Just as I suspected, I took one picture during the job. I had brake fluid on my hands and was concerned about getting it all installed correctly.

Here's what we did.

We loosened the brake lines on the master and let the fluid drip out [we used an aerosol cap as a catch can] most of the brake fluid went onto the garage floor. Next we disconnected the fluid level wire harness on the master, and all other lines and hoses connected to the master.
Then we took off the two nuts securing the master. After the master is loose and drained, you can pry it away from the firewall. It is a bit tricky, it takes a little muscle.

After you pull the old master off, the new master should come with an alignment tool. this tool looks like the letter F back to back with another on or a T with two tops one bigger than the other. This is for making sure the rod in the firewall is at the right distance from the master plunger.

At this point we put the new master in and secured it with the nuts. We screwed the lines in loose and then switched out the slave. The slave had three bolts holding down the slave shield, after the shield is off the slave is held in place with two bolts. There is one line you'll need to disconnect from the slave. After you've taken the old slave off and put the new one on, tighten the line back into the slave.

Now you'll want to connect all the hoses and lines to the master but make sure to leave the brake lines pretty loose at first when bleeding [this is a way for the air to escape].

****Make sure to disengage your parking brake if its on before bleeding!!!***

I'm not 100% on the order but i'm pretty sure we did the slave bleed first then the drums\calipers.

Advice from a local off road shop: once you think you've got all the air out of your lines, let the truck sit for an hour and get at her again.

***DO NOT LET THE MASTER GO DRY WHEN BLEEDING*** We'd keep topping it off every few bleed cycles - we also had a pressure bleeder which made things easy, but went back to the old fashioned method after a while.

the hardest part of this job was the bleeding!

 

Notchy shifts are gone BTW !!!!!!!

 

Nice. Way to go.

 

Good Job OP!

 

I think the next item that needs replacing is my clutch pedal assembly.

Its still got some play when you first press it in and its already been ajusted.

Is that a hard install? I bet that will require another brake/slave bleed?

 

why do I still have notchy shifts at lower rpms? could my pedal assembly be the next thing that's in need of replacement?

 

I'm not sure if this is true for your 2005 V6, but it is for my 2011 I4

The clutch master cylinder is separate from the break master cylinder, except that they share the resevoir. The clutch master cylinder is actually right behind the clutch pedal, completely inside the cab.
It looks like this:



If this is under there, then it might be your problem, not sure. I just replaced mine for a different reason, my pedal was stuck on the floor. This weekend I'm going to try to write up a step by step while its still fresh in my mind. It wasn't too hard to replace, but, I like you can not be bothered to snap pictures while im struggling . If I do end up making a post I'll note it in a reply here

 

How cold was the outside temperature when it stuck to the floor? What color paint do you have on the spring on the pedal (blue or white)?

 

It wasn't too cold, maybe 40's the day it stuck. The paint on the spring isn't very obvious, but I'm going to say there is white on it, it just looks like overspray.....