Luk vs Aisin clutch kit- feedback?

Anyone with manual transmission second gen’s have any feedback on clutch kits that you’ve used? I’m approaching 150k miles and my throw out bearing is starting to chirp.

I made an appointment with a well reviewed transmission shop (2 months out) and they said they like to use Luk parts. From what I have read, Aisin is the oem manufacturer for Toyota clutches? My truck is a daily so I don’t need anything fancy. Just want to put in the best parts I can afford while the whole driveline is pulled apart.

Looking for some real world feedback on either brand.

Truck is a 2013 Base 4x4 AC 2.7 5 spd

 

I ran a LUK clutch in my Mitsubishi 3000 GT no problems always hooked up nice and tight and it wasn’t that expensive

 

I think Luk and Aisin were both suppliers at one time.
To the best of my knowledge, there were a few problems with the Luk brand.
Toyota dropped Luk and went with Aisin only in the later years.

If you search TW, there is a thread where this was discussed and the information is there.
I will see if I can find it and post a link.

 

Found it

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-slipping-need-advice.525997/

 

I believe LuK is a common OEM supplier for German cars. I have used them on a previous German car with no issue.
However I've heard the machining on their flywheel teeth is not that good, to where it won't engage with the starter. Whether that's actually true or not, I don't know.
There are machine shops that can resurface the original flywheel for $50 to re-use it.

The factory flywheel is like $800. So it's probably worth it to resurface. I had an extra one actually that could be swapped in. Nobody wanted it even for cheap and decent shape, into the trash it went.

If factory is $800, and LuK is $50, you have to ask yourself; did they cheap out on machining? Though yes, being an SMF (single mass flywheel) it will be cheaper to manufacture instead of those stupid DMF's some vehicles come with (Dual Mass Flywheel) that instead of being a simple balanced puck of metal, are two piece connected by a bunch of internal mechanisms

Besides that, the LuK clutch I believe looks different from Aisin, whatever came out of my truck, and all the other offerings.
There was a post few weeks ago with someone using that outlier design clutch, where it had failed.
That's maybe another reason why when I replaced with OEM, and later upgraded, I went with clutches that actually looked like Toyota clutches.
Replacing while in there. Really the only actual component I've ever had issue with is the throwout bearing, due to how garbage it was designed from the factory.
Which at that point with like 8hr labor to get in there, you don't really know what you're gonna find inside, so I had others parts on the bench ready to go just in case.
Didn't know if PO ever did a clutch job or how they drove it, so at 130k was probably smart to have a new one ready, considering the clutch that kit is not that expensive.
Actually, when I went OEM, it was Exedy TYK1515 I believe (heard good things about the brand) then later URD.
I had some issues with that first clutch later on, maybe I did something wrong towing, I'm not sure. I explained to Exedy, who then sent me a new replacement for free. I cannot complain about that, probably the best customer service I've ever had, and doubt many other companies would do that, want feedback about their product, or stand by it like that.

I later opted for URD why?
Nobody wants to support the development of a FluidAmpr for this truck.
So a few pounds added to the FW will balance it out.
If going crawl box later on or regear, heavier FW is a nice addition.
Manual off roading, and being in traffic, stock rotating assembly was shaky at low RPM.
Their kit has stronger clutch/PP (more clamping force); ton of reasons this may be desired
Already have a HydroTOB. Barring any comment on if it works or not; the theory of HydroTOB's in proper operation, is stronger force with less foot effort, aka being able to handle stronger clutches without noticing.
Better to have a strong clutch rated over factory specs, than one that's just barely good enough from factory in a truck that will probably get used harder than the average one.

 

@BassAckwards I bet he knows a good one to recommend.
With his setup, he has to have a good clutch

 

Bruh, I inquired about it 2 days after your OP, cuz you didn't list a price, and 2 days later you replied "Nevermind, threw it out" (not even 4 full days after your OP).

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-kit.787825/

 

I recommend an Aisin CKT-073 kit. I am running the Aisin CKT-065 in my 2009 5spd. I am not sure what they changed between the years, but Rockauto is pointing me towards an Aisin CKT-073 for your 2013

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...4,3015099,transmission-manual,clutch+kit,1993

 

Thanks man

 

Also, i will note that i have run the Luk clutch kits as well. The discs are identical between that and the Aisin kits. The only differences is the pressure plate, TOB, and Pilot bearing provided from what ive seen.

 

Thanks all for the feedback! I had read some of the threads about LUK quality control and was leaning towards the Aisin kit from rock auto. The Aisin kit will also be cheaper than what the ship quoted me for the luk clutch kit. Really only wanna have to do this once and leave it alone for another 150k!!