Lower control arm!

I need new lower control arms and I don't have a lift but still want nice ones. Shoot me what you guys got!!!!!

 

Stock length beefy lower control arms.

https://solomotorsports.com/shop/su...er/toyota-lower-control-arm-kit-stock-length/

 

How they should have been made right?

 

I'll bet you you just need new bushings...


Those Solo ones are redonk expensive for zero real benefit. OEMs are perfectly fine, and are definitely not the weak point in the system.

 

They actually move the wheel forward a bit for additional clearance on top of being sturdy as hell.

 

I don't doubt they're much stronger than stock.

But people aren't breaking OEM ones, so all that additional strength is kinda not necessary.

99% of the time when people post here that they "need to LCAs" it's because a shop/mechanic told them they need them.

I'm really fascinated with the uniball conversion kits they have, but again, the price of entry (LCAs, unis, spindles) is too rich for my blood.

 

No you're right, LCA's aren't really a weak link in all this (though there are reports of some people cracking them) but the Solo's do provide the benefit of relocating the wheel slightly away from the firewall/cab.

 

Wouldnt their long travel kit ride smoother than stock even at stock ride height?

 

odd, they don't mention that in the description. How do they move the wheel forward without F-ing up the alignment? They'd need the UCA to move forward too.

 

That's more a function of your shock settings. Wheel size also plays a role.

Hopefully people aren't throwing long travel at their trucks because they want a smoother ride...

 

It makes the alignment and clearance better by moving the LBJ forward slightly and thus increasing castor.


That being said, for most applications I would just toss new bushings in a set of OEM arms.

 

More caster? I think i remember someone saying that people want more sometimes for our trucks?

 

I was gonna say I know guys on here who beat the piss out of their trucks, and are running OEM LCAs.

 

I run moogs on mine with no issues

 

The "more caster" thing is a bit of a misnomer. When lifting a truck, you need UCAs that have more caster to correct the alignment at the new ride height, so some people think that means that lifted trucks "need more caster" so they tell their alignment tech to get bigger castor numbers. That's not really true. You need more caster adjustment from the UCAs, but the end numbers should still be within factory spec.

There are times when you may want more castor than what the factory specifies, but those are pretty specific situations (like racing or something). The rule of thumb should always be to maintain stock alignment numbers.

 

Stashing that into the back of my head for the future. good info

 

Thank you guy. Needed to replace my ball joint was looking to is if there was nice control arms out there and my new 265/75r16 nitto tires do rub a little bit in the back when I turn probably go away once i ride them a bit. Probably just going to go ahead and rock stock control arms and just new ball joint for them. Based on what you guys just said. I am running stock

 

Same boat as you. Went to get an alignment and they said I needed new upper and lower control arms. WTF? not going there again. just replacing bushings. I swear - customer service is just getting thrown out the window anymore. It's good to find a good place that will not try to screw ya over.

 

Bushings as stated in the beginning.

Shops recommend new arms because they're too lazy to replace the bushings in them.

 

Are these the kind you have to burn out or am I thinking of a different car