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Lower control arm alignment hardware... explanation on how it works

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Paulrv6, Apr 9, 2022.

  1. Apr 9, 2022 at 9:55 AM
    #1
    Paulrv6

    Paulrv6 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Before I loosen these bolts on the lower control arms I wanted to get an explanation of what the hardware pieces look like and how the adjustment works. As you can see from the photo I can't tell what pieces are separate and what is together. What moves and how is it adjusted? Thanks

    IMG_20220408_154655321.jpg
    IMG_20220408_154644438.jpg
     
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  2. Apr 9, 2022 at 10:39 AM
    #2
    TheDevilYouLove

    TheDevilYouLove You can’t polish a turd, but you can polish a TRD

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    I’d bet money those cams are seized
     
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  3. Apr 9, 2022 at 12:03 PM
    #3
    6 gearT444E

    6 gearT444E Certified Electron Pusher

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    That’s what it looks like. It works by using a cam to offset the mount either inboard or outboard by turning the inner sleeve.
    9ADD4031-712A-4022-BE77-01B9B56B933E.jpg
     
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  4. Apr 9, 2022 at 12:21 PM
    #4
    Chuy

    Chuy Well-Known Member

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    On mine, the A0166 bolt was seized inside the 60020 sleeve. Front cam on passenger side. Coated the new bolt with grease brfore bolting it back up.
    OP, the cam bolts should come out if you remove them one at a time on level ground, without lifting up the front end. Mark the settings just in case.
     
  5. Apr 9, 2022 at 4:01 PM
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    Paulrv6

    Paulrv6 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Chuy,were you able to break them free or what did you do? I only have to loosen them to lower the lower a-arm for replacing my shocks. I'm using the "no spring compressor" method.
    I guess then the alignment shop will need to adjust these if the alignment is out right?
     
  6. Apr 9, 2022 at 5:17 PM
    #6
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    You don't have to loosen them to get the shocks out, but it helps.

    They can't be frozen when it goes in for alignment though.. obviously
     
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  7. Apr 9, 2022 at 8:58 PM
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    Bishop84

    Bishop84 Well-Known Member

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    Leave them alone unless you plan on cutting them out.

    The no-compressor method is not safe and should be used with caution.

    I will tell you the tip to move the arm out of the way when they are seized though.

    Ratchet strap the two lower arms towards each other.
     
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  8. Apr 10, 2022 at 10:09 AM
    #8
    Paulrv6

    Paulrv6 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So you are saying do not loosen them but strap them towards each other (driver and pass) arms to help pull them down? Will spraying them down good with lubricant help them to move any better within the bushings?
    How would the alignment shop get them to move if they do their alignment? Thanks
     
  9. Apr 10, 2022 at 11:05 AM
    #9
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    Lube won't unfreeze them if they're frozen. The alignment shop won't be able to do anything if they're frozen. They usually have to be cut out and replaced
     
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  10. Apr 10, 2022 at 2:53 PM
    #10
    Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Well-Known Member

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    It's not the nuts on the end that freeze up. The shank of the cam bolts corrodes along with the sleeve in the bushing on the lower control arm they ride in. Once they rust together, you're all done with alignments.
     
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  11. Apr 10, 2022 at 2:59 PM
    #11
    Alealexi

    Alealexi Well-Known Member

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    I just changed the lower control arm bushings and ball joints on my truck and put antiseize to prevent any further corrosion from happening. Luckily I live in Houston so I don't have to worry much about rust. Just a light amount of rust on the cambolt.
     
  12. Apr 10, 2022 at 3:16 PM
    #12
    Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Well-Known Member

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    I pulled all of the alignment cams out of my T4R when it was 5 months old specifically to coat them with Never Seize. They had already begun to corrode.
     
  13. Feb 20, 2023 at 2:25 PM
    #13
    awoit

    awoit Well-Known Member

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    Which parts get greased so that there aren't rust/seized issues in the future?
     
  14. Feb 20, 2023 at 2:48 PM
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    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    You can grease the heck out of everything. Sleeves, bolts, etc but it will get washed off anyway. It's right there in the wind and rain under the truck. They always rust and sieze, really nothing to do about it
     
  15. Feb 20, 2023 at 4:22 PM
    #15
    Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Well-Known Member

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    You need to Never Seize or waterproof grease the shanks of the bolts where they pass through the LCA bushings. This is what mine looked like after less than 6 months in the rust belt. It may not totally prevent corrosion, but it's got to be better than nothing.

    IMG_2419_1__b9a7e6089d12b712f5f7878136c77502a7d1537e.jpg

    IMG_2418_1__d2cd585b330709a11c344d8783c11560cd25a935.jpg
     
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  16. Feb 20, 2023 at 4:48 PM
    #16
    6 gearT444E

    6 gearT444E Certified Electron Pusher

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    All of them except for the nuts
     
  17. Nov 16, 2024 at 4:13 PM
    #17
    JPapa333

    JPapa333 New Member

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    The nuts mentioned being 48452-35020,48198-60011, and 90178-A0001? Or only 90178-A0001. Furthermore is this due to risk of it loosening if those are greased?

    I have a 2015 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport Pre-Runner if that matters.
    Late to this discussion sorry.
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2024

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