Life expectancy of 2nd gen AC Compressors?

Hey guys. I love the idea of this low pressure ac compressor cutoff switch. I'm wondering what the likely hood of it saving my ac compressor. I'v got 140,000 miles on a 12. Replaced relay, check fuse, pushed on ac sheridan valve and just a little bit fizzled out and it stoped.

Recharge at dealer ship is amazing, 90 bucks to recharge system. If there was pressure still in the system nothing like an evaporated is causing it only leaving something like a faulty ac compressor and thats where the leak could be coming from too.

 

Dunno why but the ac compressor clutch decided to shit the bed on my 15 with 60k miles last summer. That was depressing. Luckily the new compressor has a 5 year warranty with it.

 

103k miles, getting it recharged next week. I’ll follow up if I have a leak or anything, but it’s still decently cold. Just want to keep it full so seals don’t dry out.

 

Did they sniff it or leak test it? Is the clutch good? No reason the compressor should be toast already.

 

191K on my ‘13, still blowing cold. Ain’t touched it yet

 

Clutch isnt engaging. I have the ability to rebuild it but I havent had diagnostics done so I dont know. Dealership charges 140 for dye leak test and recharge, maybe a good idea. Thats cool you guys have had a long life on your compressors. Its too hot to work now so maybe pay some one.

 

Best thing you can do is get a set of gauges (oreilly loans them for free) to check the charge. If its correct, you've got an electrical problem - either a bad switch or a clutch or something.

 

I have a hair under 150,000 on my '12
I haven't done anything to my A/C and it works perfectly.

 

Maybe I should just charge it for 90 bucks. If others have good success maybe mine will work too.

 

You think $90 is expensive to re charge but your willing to take the chance? Let them diagnose it for leaks or see if the clutch is fried at least. And a 30 lb cylinder of R134 goes for $175 aftermarket. When the dealer buys it from Toyota they pay even more for it. It's hot out. Take it somewhere you trust and fix it the right way.

Also, I've got 141,000 mi on my 2013 and A/C works fine.

 

They will recover whatever refrigerant is in the system, put it under vacuum (to get out the moisture and do a leak check) and then charge it with a small amount of dye so any leaks can be seen with a black light.

 

Mine crapped out 1 week after being stuck in traffic for a few hours -74k 2013

 

14 years and 215,000 miles and so far mine is working fine. Not everyone has listed their location, but based on my highly unscientific observations folks who live in hotter, southern states have fewer problems because the AC is used year round. Even during the winters here I use AC with the heat on to dehumidify the truck.

While admittedly unscientific I've noted several folks having AC compressor issues who live in colder climates and may not turn it on for months at a time.

 

I too have noticed this trend.

 

207k on 06 with nothing touched. Cold air. I live in hot, humid, south.

 

Quite possibly true, but us northerners actually use our A/C more than you might think. Any time you run your defroster - and we run ours a lot - the A/C comes on automatically.

 

My shop I take it to for ac work suggested to always run it for a few minutes once a month to circulate the fluid. There’s lubricant in with the refrigerant, and that keeps the seals happy and prevents drying out. I have an 09 and 103k miles, going in tomorrow for a recharge. It’s not out just not as cold as it used to be.

 

I live in North Texas and it's hot as hell here. 2009 TRD Sport with 185k miles on it and mine still works. I've had to fiddle with the blower motor resistor but that doesn't have anything to do with the compressor. I've never replaced anything though and it works. System has plenty of charge and clutch engages fine.

However, I'd also note that either it's losing cooling power or I have a lower tolerance for the heat (or both) because I really need more out of it. It works but extra cooling power would be a plus. The cab just gets so hot during the summer months when it's outside.

 

While not bad advice, seems a bit short on reasoning.

The system is under constant pressure. Refrigerant/oil is constantly up against those seals. At rest (A/C off) pressures on both sides of the system equalize and on a full system, the rest pressure roughly matches ambient temperature (so if it's 85°F out, I expect to see ~85psi on my manifold gauges).

It's not like an engine, where pressure falls to zero and all liquids settle back into the pan after shutting it off.

 

I feel your pain, I live in El Paso with my black truck. I replaced the blower motor resistor because of that bad connector issue.

211,000 miles and I had a leak from my low pressure schrader valve. Replaced that and refilled the whole system. Picked up a gauge set and vacuum pump from Harbor Freight on sale.