Let's fight about 4.88 vs 5.29 gears again.

Let me start off with, yes, I've searched, yes, I've read threads, yes. No, I have not stumbled upon the information I am looking for, which I'm hoping people with similar set-ups/circumstances will chime in here.

As we all get to this point I'm ready to shop for gears.

My truck, pictured below, typically runs in its traditional truck form sometimes with, and sometimes without a tonneau. I have a 2" OME HD lift on 285/70/17s. I run a LeerXR topper, ~160-200lbs, and a hitch mounted tire carrier ~50-70lb, when going on trips. I have a Body Armor Hiline bumper with a Smittybilt 9500 w/ synthetic line ~80-90lbs. The roof rack is a Martin Offroad rack but as soon as I stomach the price of new roof channel molding it will be coming off. The only other "mod" I'm considering is a Decked but I'm not sold on it yet.

I have 0 intentions of building this truck as full tilt overlander. I have no need, or want for full bumpers, rtt, sliders, etc. The truck utilized more as a truck than camper in its daily life. If I'm going to beat on something that needs all that, it won't be this truck.

So, with that said, I drive this truck regularly to VA from SC, 65-70mph for a few hours and once a year I drive from SC to WY and back (22hrs from my house to WY state line). So 70-80/85 MPH for hooooours on end (usually split into two 14ish hour days if I'm alone)

I'm looking for some input from people who are not fully kitted with a ton of extra weight who have with 33s or 35s with 4.88s or 5.29s who similarly drive their trucks long highway distances. What are your experiences with driveability, rpms, shifting, head winds, mountain passes, mpgs, etc. Do you have any regrets or anything negative? Did you tune, did you not tune?

I appreciate any input and thank y'all for your time

 

I've got a similar setup to you, with a little more weight. Topper, bumpers, sliders, winch, racks and such. I went with 5.29s and think they're just about perfect with the 285/75r16s on there. I figured I'd go with 35's eventually so I went ahead and just got the 5.29's from ECGS and called it a day.

 

I have a similar setup as well, except with 265/75/16s(going to 285s when these wear). Sliders, RCI skids(steel), tank skid, topper w/ full racks, w/ Kings. I recently(May 2023) went to 5.29s with KDMAXX tune, and love the way the truck can actually accelerate now. These trucks are PIGS from the factory, with little HP to “match” the hunting transmission. The truck drives as it should now, but the top end is limited to 90-ish(who goes faster in these things?!), and the truck tows much better(KDMAXX tune adjusted shift points, this is key with any re-gear!). I tow a boat, Waverunner, and a small overland camper often and maintain 70-75 easily at 15MPG(loaded w/ camp gear)(all trailers weigh under 2K). Living in So Cal, the gears made a night and day difference on drive ability with our hills and mountains. I recently went on a 1200 mile trip with all my camp gear(500lb w/ Gazelle tent on rack), mixed 70-85MPH and the truck drove smooth, the truck doesn’t need to downshift to pass others on the freeway too. Definitely worth doing the gears, i sprung for Nitros w/ Cryo treatment and it has been the most important “mod” done to my truck to date.

 

If you have an automatic, anything besides 5.29 is dumb. If you have a manual, still much of the time less than 5.29 is dumb. Doesn’t matter how long you spend on the highway. The automatic is geared so tall that you can’t ruin it with 5.29s.

 

No reason to fight, 5.29s are the answer

Online gearing calculators show about 170rpm more with 5.29s (2187rpm) over 4.88s (2018rpm) @ 70mph in 6th gear w/33s

Just for fun...in 5th gear @ 70mph there is about a 200rpm difference. (5.29 - 2602rpm, 4.88 - 2400rpm)

 

5.29

 

I have 285 tires, OTT tune, and 4.88 gearing. i would not want the gearing any lower as i find 1st gear already quite short. i feel like 285s and 4.88 is the perfect combo for MPG on the highway. i don't have any extra weight. 4 LO is a beast with these gears but again, i personally would not want the gearing any lower than it already is at 4.88

 

I think 1st gear being short is a major benefit, especially in an auto where you're not responsible for shifting. And like you said, 4lo is amazing with shorter gears.

 

I've got 285s, Decked, bed rack, and RTT. I'm looking to get 5.29s

 

In a '69 Judge 4.88s made redline right at the traps.

Turbo350 trans and m&h wrinkle walls on 15" cragars.

Hope that helps.

 

I would looooooove some 4.88s

It’s not a huge deal at all but if I get it done for free, I wouldn’t mind at all.

 

I'm near completion of an 800 mile break in period on the 5.29s in my 2020 DCLB, rolling on 285/75/17s.

I can't say enough good things about them, still torquey, great on the highway, even in the break-in period and merges WAY better than OEM.

The only thing I haven't yet tested is what I designed it to do, and that is pull our off road trailer.

End of August the wife and I are taking a trip with the trailer after I get the lash checked and gear oil changed.
With the long bed/auto the 5.29s were definitely the right choice.

 

2017 DCSB w/ Martin Offroad roof rack, Decked (200 lbs), awning, and RTT (200 lbs). I am also running 35s. Highway, street, offroad, 5.29 made the truck so much more enjoyable to drive. No hunting. The shifting is on point. On my latest offroad adventure, 4HI was all that I needed. In the past, I would have had to go into 4LO. I did roll on 33s w/ the 5.29 and it was perfect w/ the weight I am constantly carrying.

 

33s, full underbody skids, sliders, diamondback cover. 5.29s even when driving in Utah 90mph. no regrts!

 

Why is 5.29 recommended?
I hear it’s weaker.
And if you break a rear end and upgrade to Jeep, they can come in 4.88 to match your front gearing. They don’t come in 5.29.

Want to regear weighted 2nd gen manual. Are they very different?

I’ve been recommended 4.56, 4.88, 5.29
More recs of the first two, with KFlo and ECGS saying 4.88

“4.56 mimics stock ratio” exactly that sounds trash
Stock ratio is trash
And the truck is not stock
Cars come with 4.10 not 3.73. Toyota would rather the truck limp

 

The weakness of 5.29 vs 4.88 is marginal. I have not seen a set 4.88s or 5.29s explode, at least not with the large majority of what we do here. I'm not saying it's never happened just not very common with our set ups/weak engines. You also have take into account proper install and 8 inch vs 8.2.

As for gearing for your purpose they will both provide a better driving experience on the long highway drives. With whatever gear set you go with, I would recommend a tune as well, not only will the tune wake the truck up it removes the top speed regulator which gets thrown off after gears and larger tires.
5.29 and 35s mine was at 82mph. It's not like I'm trying drive high 80s all the time, but we all know sometimes you need it.

The advantage of 5.29 is the lower crawl ratio, more torque on the low end. Also, if you ever change your mind in the future you'll be set up to handle larger tires.

Whatever you chose, whatever you think will work best for you regardless of gears, do not put that front diff back in without a locker.
Save more if you have to, but get a front locker. I'm a huge believer if you're taking a diff apart on an off road vehicle, don't leave it open when you have a chance at it, do it. It does not matter if you're going to use it once month or once a year. If you're ever in a bind where a front locker would have turned a 4 hour ordeal into 5 minutes, you'll be kicking your self in the nuts over it. It's amazing what fully locked vehicles can do slow and easy where everyone else has to use all that skinny pedal.

So really if you go into this, it's gears, lockers, and a tune. Those 3 mods will have the greatest effect on the entire truck and greatly improve drivability in all driving situations on and off road.

I don't consider myself fully kitted. I'm 5.29, 37s, on the OTT tune. She drives like a dream street and highway. Quick enough to keep up with traffic, RPMs stay low and she's not gear hunting all over the place. I have a couple 22+ hour drives under my belt and I drive a ton during the week.

 

Thanks for all the replies guys I really appreciate. This is exactly what I was looking for. I'm past my wheeling days, not in age just breaking stuff is expensive, so for me the most "difficult" thing this truck sees are unmaintained forest roads in WY/MT/CO, some around here in SC/NC. I have been leaning toward 5.29s from the start, it has just been hard pulling data on performance on trucks that aren't fully build or heavy as hell.

@ClassyTacos a tune and locker are planned as well. I learned the locker lesson with one of my old Jeeps, I didn't want to spend the money on them at the time but it bit me in the ass later on so, every Jeep after that got lockers with gears even if I didn't really think that I "needed" them. The top speed was something that was a concern for me, I didn't even think about it being able to be ungoverned with a tune. Appreciate that enlightenment.

@TacoTuesday1 Funny you say that, I actually came to Toyota from Jeep and still have a Comanche sitting in the field out back waiting for me to find a donor for it lol. It's on 4" lift, 31s, locked front and rear (super 35) w/ 3.73s, skids etc.

@Out2gtcha Thank you sir! With your bed rack and skids we're probably pretty close in weight all around. I'd be interested to know what kind of RPMs and MPG you're seeing on the highway with and without the trailer when you pull it. From what I've read it seems like everyone kind of has a different experience, specifically to MPG. Some are reporting better, some worse. I have a feeling that probably boils down to driving style.

 

Yep, I will definitely report back on RPMs MPH and towing performance once I get through this break-in period, which should be over in the next few weeks.
I can then hitch up our off road trailer and see what we have.

 

4.88’s here good for me

 

I’m debating this too. I have 31’s stock for my trail edition, I don’t think I would go much bigger. I wonder what the MPG difference is when cruising between 4.88 vs 5.29?