Leer Replacement Rear Glass/?? Source? Price?

My back glass is shattered. I need a new one. Where is there an online source for it inexpensive?

Leer 100XQ glass. Anyone with sources?

 

I just called an authorized leer dealer in town to get my slider when I broke it. Price was reasonable.

 

huh, I really was hoping for an internet source for cheap.

 

Local glass shop. My buddy just replaced glass on another topper for $75. $100 cheaper than dealer.

 

Dealer just quoted me 499. insurance has it at 486. so theres got to be a cheaper place somewhere.

 

I backed into a tree limb while camping in Colorado and smashed the rear window on my Leer topper. It was Monday morning and I was packing to drive home to Iowa and wanted a solution other than cardboard. Stopped at a local plastic supply store (almost everytown has one) and they cut me a piece of bronze smoked scratch free (coating) Lexan for $75.00. I took the same hardware from the shattered window and drilled the appropriate holes with a my Dremel, yes I have a Dremel in my truck at all times. This was supposed to be a temporary solution but I used it like that for the next 8 years and actually forgot several times that it was not glass.

 

The back glass of your topper looks straightforward enough...

 

I'll call a few places. At that price point. Might go for a tinted Lexan

 

Anyone have any sources? Maybe a friend at a dealership that is a reseller? or at a junk yard? please?

 

If the glass you need is flat and not curved than you should be able to get a glass shop to make a template and get it cut and tempered in a week. If prices are anything close to Canada youre looking at $200.

 

The piece I got cut out of lexan was 8 years ago. Plastic prices are more dependent on oil prices than glass so I assume it is much higher now. What did you find out?

 

Man sounds like they are sticking it to you with that price. That is at least 4 times their cost. If I were faced with this dilemma think I would do one of two different things.Leer doesn't make their own glass for their caps. It is made by a second party. I would try to find out who makes the glass for their caps and then inquire with them about getting a replacement piece. If I struck out there I would go to an auto glass shop and have them make me one. That is their business.

 

I manage an Apple Auto Glass shop and deal with this on a regular basis. You can only buy the replacement glass from a dealer. Lexan or plexi is expensive and it scratches way too easy. I pay $500 for factory canopy backglasses for insurance company's all day long. I would cut you some glass but it would be way easier just to deal locally.

 

Yep. Thanks. I will try a different approach then.

 

Broke the rear window out of my Leer 100R when my dirtbike fell of the hitch carrier. Just got quoted $330 from my local Leer dealer to replace the whole back door. My local glass shop quoted me $104 for smoked lexan. Not sure if I want to go with glass or lexan - both have their pros and cons.

 

I consider the lexan. Can't stand the scratches and yellowing that will eventually occur.

 

Got my replacement door from Leer. It was around $330 CAD. It is the door, frame, gas struts, handles, everything. Now I just have to figure out how to change it out. Looks like I have to take everything out, right down to the fiberglass.

 

So I got it done. Not a super big job, but plenty awkward.

I didn't find anything on the internet that showed how to replace one of these doors so I just started taking my old one apart. Turns out it's not that complicated, but there are a lot of screws involved. There were loads of these self tapping screws holding the inside bracket to the door frame - all of these screws provide the clamping force that holds the door into the fiberglass opening.



Here I've taken some of the screws out.



After I removed all of the screws from the inside bracket, the door was still not moving. So I checked out these rivets. There are two rivets on each side, they are driven in from the outside, through the door frame, through holes in the fiberglass and into the inside bracket.



I ground the heads off and they popped right out.



Then the door more or less just dropped right out.



So here we are right down to the fiberglass.



The next part was the most difficult. I had to hold up the new door where it is supposed to live and position the inside bracket where it is supposed to live, and drive a whole bunch of self tapping screws into the door frame to clamp everything together. The new door didn't come with new screws so I reused the old ones. I used a 1/4" ratchet to drive the first couple and that was a huge pain, so I smartened up and got out the air ratchet for the rest - that made things go a lot easier.





Here it is, all done. Well I still have to drill the frame somewhere close to where the previous door frame had those two rivets on each lower side. I am going to use stainless screws and self locking nuts instead of the rivets though.



Bit of an expensive lesson learned. Be careful with that rear door glass.
I saved the old frame and am going to do something with lexan and possibly some arrangement that will allow for screened opening for more ventilation. That will remain a project for future camping trips.

 

Hey man

I'm having trouble with my window seems the previous owner bent it some how. Leer asked $489 for whole new thing but I only need the frame. I was wondering how'd filling the hole from the river turned out?

 

Filling the hole from the river? You mean rivet?