LED turn signals Front Headlights burning my Fuse up

I just tried installing my new led turn signals for the fround headlights




keep burning out my 15A (blue) fuse out

any ideas why?

 

This may be completely wrong, but I think led lights are a different amp level than regular ones.

 

LED bulbs draw considerably LESS current than incandescent bulbs.

I'm assuming these are blowing the fuses immediately when you activate the turn signals?

If this is the case, the LED bulbs you have are probably wired up differently than the stock bulbs you are replacing. By this I mean that the four wires coming down from the bulb portion to the socket are oriented differently than those of the stock bulbs.

I have a few questions for you:

What year is your truck?

What is the number of the bulb you are replacing? (do they have 1 filament or 2?)

Do you have DTRL (Daytime Running Lights)

Do you have load resistors wired in parallel with the LED bulbs to prevent hyper-flash? If so, what size are they?

 

Go to SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM You have the wrong bulbs. Tacomas require type CK ONLY. You'll see dozens of threads on this if you look for them.

 

Wiring is wrong. Put it on a resistor and then break off one of the metal prongs.

 

My first post! I am new here!

You don't need to replace your LED bulbs. I am assuming that you are blowing the fuse the second you turn on your parking/headlights, yes?

To fix this problem, you will need a volt meter and a razor blade.

You have three wires leading in to your socket: +(turn), -(common) and +(park). First, pull the stock bulb out of the socket and determine which of the leads are positive for the flasher and the parking lights using your volt meter. You can quickly identify the negative lead because they are connected inside the socket. Draw a diagram of the socket.

Once you have identified the correct polarity, you'll need to pull off the end cap of your LED bulb. First, get a needle nose pliers and straighten out the metal wire pins. Then use your razor blade around the rim to cut the drop of adhesive that holds the end cap in place. Pull the cap straight out from the bulb.

You'll see two resistor leads and a common ground soldered together (the two leads soldered together are your (-) side). With an active 12v power source, touch the + and - side to determine which is your flasher and which is your parking light. Now bend the leads to match the orientation you outlined in your socket. You may need a small piece of electrical tape to avoid shorting out your bulb (you'll know it when you see it).

Push the re-aligned leads through the holes in the black cap and bend them back accordingly. You should now be able to plug the bulb in to the socket to test. Of course, to stop hyper flashing you'll need a load resistor, but that's another topic.

I am planning on doing this to my brand new Tacoma in a week or so with LED switchbacks (white/amber LEDs) and I can take photos to illustrate if interested.

 

............Or just get the type CK bulbs.

 

Seems like a lot of over kill and still won't work correctly as it was made. I remeber when I first started wiring Dtrls and switchbacks in Tacomas I tried something similar to this. If it's a good led taken the base off isn't as easy as 123 and if you break the leads you've opened a whole can of worms that should remain sealed.

 

^^^^^^
This

 

This.

No

Hell to the no.

This.

 

Hahahahahah what's wrong with a little elbow grease if you already have the bulbs in your drawer?

 

For one thing, not all of the trucks have 3-wire sockets like the '14.
I think that started in 2010.

2nd thing is half the forum can't pick up a soldering iron by the cold end

 

OUCH THAT'S HOT !!!