Leaking Steering Tie Rod Bellows

Hi,
I'm noticing a lot of amber-colored oil on the street from a leaking steering bellows. I recently flushed my PS fluid so I am confused why the color of this fluid is amber, not red. Its definitely not water, but some kind of oil.



The boot is ripped at the small end and that is the source of the leak since i take this rig off road in very dusty areas, I should replace the bellows... right?

To do this the tie rods need to be taken off to replace this bellows, I am thinking I should replace my tie rod ends as well. Am I thinking about this correctly?

 

So it means the output seal on the rack is leaking, its leaking due to play and wear on the rack and pinion. You need a rack unfortunately.

It's just really dirty from pooling in the boot.

 

Thank you,
I've read bad things about the cost of such a repair.

So not a trace of red in the fluid that is coming out is normal? wild!

 

^Factory fluid is a light golden color (basically Dexron III without the red dye). It's possible your flush didn't completely expel all the factory fluid. Or it could be rust (which is often the cause of the rack seal wear).

 

Should I worry about the hole in the bellows, as in a way from dust to get in and make trouble?

Meaning... if I just keep the PS fluid topped up, and try to keep this rack running for as long as possible, does it make sense to fix the bellow? Or just let the whole thing ride and replace it all down the line?

 

I'm thinking about doing something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udlPm5gjrDA

 

Your racking is leaking pretty good.
I'd say it won't be too long before "topping it off" won't work.
The only thing a new boot will do is keep it from leaking "sooner"
Eventually, the boot will fill up and leak anyways.

I feel for you man, Mine is leaking too.
But it takes about 1 year before I have to add more fluid.
Mine drips right on to the LCA bushing. But never has leaked enogung to make a spot on the driveway. (yet)

 

Thanks for this input....

Does it make sense to replace the bellows or not? I'm taking it off road in very dusty conditions every few months.

 

If you don't plan on replacing the whole rack, then I'd replace the boot.
The fluid will cause dust/dirt to collect on the internal parts. Which will only cause the the rack to fail faster.

Ideally, you'd want to replace the whole rack.
If you can't, or don't want to. Then replace the boot and keep an eye on the fluid level.
If it leaks too much, you'll destroy the power steering pump. Which will only cost you more in the long run.

 

Times 5 you need a steering rack. Where are you located? I've replaced dozens of them. I enjoy doing them. I'd definitely recommend OEM new for the part. Anything else is a gamble.

 

Like Cardone = Gamble.
I don't think I'm going to gamble on doing that job twice.
I'm going OEM when the time comes.

 

Do you drop the front driveshaft to make room?
Or do you just puzzle it out?
I haven't done one on a 2nd Gen(yet)
Just like to know what I'm up against.

 

The hardest part is the rack bolts, they go upwards into the ac compressor. Theres different ways to remove them, but it just takes work.

The biggest pain lately is seized steering shafts, it makes it harder to sneak the rack out. Also seized lines are becoming more common on 2nd gens.

I used rust-off-ice last time to freeze the line it was so bad.

 

Ok, I've heard an OEM rack is big $$$. I'm not having any steering issues at all, so might just consider holding off and buying a bottle of Maxlife ATF and replacing that bellows.

I'm located in SF...<pauses for laughter to die down> ... on the plus side, very minimal rust!

 

I just looked up dealer hours. Which says 3.1 hours for 4WD.
Yeah, I've never done any rack in less than 3 hours EVER.
But, I've always done them in a driveway. And most were on cars.

 

@Superdave1.0 is in Ca. He does good work.
Not sure if the drive is worth it for you.
I think he is closer to L.A.?

 

I did the "keep adding fluid" recently on my personal truck, a 100 series land cruiser.

One day I left my house, with my kids in the truck, and my steering wheel locked up and PS pump was whining like crazy. The rack leak pissed all the fluid out like a garden hose. I had to reverse down my whole block going straight because I could barely turn my steering wheel.

Don't let this leave you stranded somewhere. If you are leaking PS fluid on the ground like that from your rack boots, you NEED a rack!

 

I have done a couple of 2nd gens. One of the rack bolts comes out no problem (with removal of some bolt on parts. The 2nd rack bolt is the issue.

Instead of raising the engine, etc, I like to loosen the 2nd bolt and cut it out with a reciprocating saw. Buy a new bolt and install the new one upside down. It's the best way for several reasons. Still a tight squeeze to get the rack out. Not fun on a 2nd gen either way.

 

I heard of guys flipping the bolts on reinstallation.
Some people frown on it. But......There are other bolts "upside down" from the factory.
I'd likely use loctite if I flipped mine.

I'm just hoping mine doesn't get worse.
Adding fluid once a year isn't too bad. And it doesn't even make it to the "low" line then.

I should probably stop talking about it.
I'll go out tomorrow and there will be a puddle......

 

I was so confident all was good as long as I topped it off. At 230k miles my rack gave up and left a huge trail of valvoline max life in my driveway.