Leaking Rack & Pinion

Soooo my repair list continues...not unexpected but repairs just the same.

The rack and pinion appears to be leaking behind the boot (I have not removed to inspect further) on the drivers side where the Rack Housing meets the Rack Boot. Its a slow drip maybe 6 small drips over 8 hours. It does seem to explaine the whine I have been hearing from the power steering pump. Possibly sucking air into the system Although the sound does not increase at full locked turn.

Hows that for a repair, and what special equipment, if any...or other considerations should I have in mind prior to getting involved?

Thanks!

 

Bump. Interested in the responses. You "said repair list continues," what started the snowball effect down the slippery slope?

 

Here's some threads with a lot better answers and details than I can give:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/05-v6-tacoma-steering-rack-bushing-replacement.289436/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-change-the-rack-and-pinion-steering-2nd-gen-v6.293781/

Jake

 

All likely unrelated after an afternoon of wheelin in deep mud and water.
Blower Resistor went out
Neutral Saftey Swith started acting up (this stung $268.00)
Now the leaking Rack and Pinion

All good, I enjoy wrenching...when it goes according to plan

 

Hmmmm so the Rack isn't servicable at the boots? Or maybe a better way to say it, "Its easier just to replace for the $$."

 

Started collecting my parts today...I'll do the job next week.
- R&P I went with a Master Pro remanufactured unit $300 out the door after returning the core. Good warranty and decent price.
- Going to upgrade to poly bushing while I am at it https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/8.10106
- New OEM rack bolts from the dealership. Going to cut the old ones out and reverse for easier installation and removal
- New greasable Moog outer tie rod ends
- and a magnetic power steering filter, why not right?... https://magnefinefilters.com/NEW-Ma...ine-Power-Steering-Filter-R038M-P-3810000.htm

What am I missing other than fluids?

 

@EatSleepTacos

He has done this repair multiple times now

 

Oh man I’m a fucking pro at this.

OP, hows your intermediate steering shaft look? Mine was rusty and loose and replacing it made it drive like a new truck. Would recommend replacing while you’re in there if needed.

Another tip, Napa sells the high pressure feed and return lines if you mess one up. Toyota sells both hoses as one assembly and it’s expensive.

When removing the rack, support the front diff with a jack and take out the front two bolts holding it up. That little bit of extra clearance makes all the difference.

You’ll also want a tie rod end puller. Makes your life a lot easier.

 

If it's an 07 might as well do the lines. Clean out the filter in the reservoir. And inspect the drained fluid.

In my case a torn inner tie rod boot allowed dirt past the rack end seals and then clogged up my reservoir filter. Then the pump ran dry and started sending metal down stream so now I have been driving around for months with no Hydro assist and 285's cause I have had no time to replace things and I've got to replace everything woohoo.

 

This is great advice! The FSM also tells you to unbolt the transmission mount so you can tilt the engine up a bit so you can clear the air compressor and don't have to cut that bolt

 

Steering shaft looks like hell, it was $hit when I bought the truck. I have been keeping it greased with an old bike tire tube, clamped on at both ends, packed full of axle grease. Redneck, but it works well. Solid advise replacing it...I saw a post here in TW where the joint was replaced with a one that had a greasable universal joint. Is there a complete aftermaket shaft with a greasable joint availabel you're aware of?

So if I am understanding you correctly jacking at the diff will give me a little more room to work. Nice. I was eyeing one of these https://www.weselltools.com/1896-au.../27178-master-inner-tie-rod-tool-set-oem.html to pull the old inner tie rods but didn't want to pony up the 80 bucks for something I'll use once every 7 years. Wonder if I could rent one from a auto parts store??

Would I pull the new one(s) before installing too?

 

Bad boot on the drivers side was my perpetrator too. Pump is cavitating under higher revs. I don't drive the truck much so I am hopeful that I don't have other issues in the system as well.

 

I have a leaking timing cover too and noisy idler pulleys so might just take a vacation to fix my truck at some point

 

Essh, thats an involved job,...mine looks to have been done once before by PO. Will you do the water pump while you're at it?

 

Good tips. I’m going to inspect my intermediate steering shaft

 

IF I do it at all, yes. New water pump, timing chain and guides and replace all seals and gaskets.

But I've started looking for V8 4runners at salvage auctions. Might swap in a V8 instead and with the motor out the R&P swap will be cake. Even though that will take probably twice as long I feel like that's time well spent compared to doing pesky maintenance

 

It's worth replacing anyway since the ujoint isn't serviceable and you're already removing this piece anyway if you're doing the R&P swap

 

Not even jack at the diff, just support it and take both bolts out. Or what I did was remove one bolt, and shift steering rack partway out. Put bolt back in and remove other bolt, then get steering rack the rest of the way out.

There’s no intermediate steering shaft with a greaseable joint already installed.

And no not an inner tie rod tool. Just something to get the tie rod end off of the spindle. This is what I have.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...BTjbvI0TjkgPxMT-ao0aAmSHEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

I like the way you think...
R&P is shot, better just drop in a V8 while I'm in there!