Leaf Spring Replacement

Before you start reading I need to just add a disclaimer here.
I replaced the leaf springs of my 99 Prerunner X-cab 3.4 by myself armed with nothing more than a couple youtube videos. First time ever doing suspension.
There are a lot of things I realize now that I did wrong but I really need help understanding what exactly went wrong. The disclaimer being that I did not get new U-bolts or Shackle bushing. Just standard Daytons 90201(R)/90203(L) from Rockauto and OES spectrum Shocks. And I truly believe these springs do not fit my vehicle. The website says its for 4WD and mine is 2WD but I figured it didn't matter because the HDs have the same measurements but with a 5in free arc.

When i brought it into the first shop they ordered

The only difference in the measurements are 5.625in arc on the passenger side and 6.75 on the driver side.
Toyota says:
R: 48210-AD040 42.1 x 6.7 x 2.9 inches
L: 48220 AD040 41.7 x 6.9 x 2.9 inches
(And that they are 18 lbs)
Rockauto says I bought
L: OEM / Interchange Numbers: 45646, 4822004070 (90203)
R OEM / Interchange Numbers: 45644, 4821004180 (90201)


Doorman says:
L: 55.5" x 3" x 13.5"
R: 55.3" x 2.4" x 4.9"
(and they are 46 lbs)



Questions:
Are all these measurement inconsistencies just effecting where the shackle sits?
I dont really trust the toyota website specs because the parts are coming from Japan
+ because toyota says the u bolt torque is 37
What is the torque spec for the shackles?
:ive heard 37 - 80 if its over torqued it wont pivot, or is this because my dumbass didnt get new bushings
Is the passenger shock supposed to be a different size?
because the distance is longer than the driver side.

Diagnosis:
I drove the truck about 100 miles and re-torqued U bolts since they felt like they were coming loose (probably because I didnt use new Ubolts) then the passanger side plate underneath the axel got pushed downward almost like the shock pushed it and was successful because of the stretched U bolts.
It wobbles from stop to go and every bump feels like the differential is not even.
And now....its just all fucked.
Can anyone help? Ill post pictures soon








I've gone to 3 shops and they all say the overload leaf is on the wrong way, but then I've read that stock leafs on these cars are supposed to sit straight so the bar being arc'd down makes sense. Can anyone please explain this to me?

 

Are all these measurement inconsistencies just effecting where the shackle sits?
I dont really trust the toyota website specs because the parts are coming from Japan
+ because toyota says the u bolt torque is 37
I wouldn't worry about the measurements on any site; for a 6-lug PreRunner, those look like fine springs to me from a "stock replacement" perspective. At least, when I drill down into RockAuto's site, they come up as an option, and you can be reasonably confident that they will fit. In the future, I'd probably go with a different brand - like General Spring - for a stock replacement, but that would just be from a reputation/spring-life perspective. (By the way, here's a good guide on choosing leaf springs, and their installation: Replacing Leaf Springs on a Tacoma)

What is the torque spec for the shackles?
I've heard 37 - 80 if its over torqued it wont pivot, or is this because my dumbass didnt get new bushings
This is all covered in the Replacing Leaf Springs on a Tacoma guide, but for TLDR:

Finishing up and Torquing to Spec

1. Reconnect the emergency brake cable.
2. Reinstall the rear wheel ensuring that all six (6) lug nuts are tight, but not yet torqued.
3. Remove any jack stands and floor jacks, so that the truck is resting on all four tires, under its own weight.
4. Torque the u-bolts to:
   • Toyota OEM u-bolts: 90 ft-lbs.
   • 9/16" Heavy Duty u-bolts: 110 ft-lbs.
5. Torque the front leaf spring mount to 116 ft-lbs.
6. Torque the rear leaf spring shackle (both nuts) to 67 ft-lbs.
7. Torque wheel lug nuts to 89 ft-lbs.
8. Torque the lower shock mount to 53 ft-lbs. Note: torque spec may be different if using relocated shocks.

​

Is the passenger shock supposed to be a different size?
because the distance is longer than the driver side.
Yes, the passenger shock is slightly longer than the driver side, though, a lot of folks end up with equal length shocks after a replacement, and as long as they are close, you're usually fine.

I drove the truck about 100 miles and re-torqued U bolts since they felt like they were coming loose (probably because I didnt use new Ubolts) then the passanger side plate underneath the axel got pushed downward almost like the shock pushed it and was successful because of the stretched U bolts.
Definitely not right, and likely due to your u-bolts not being tight enough. Also, you need to ensure that the center pin on the leaf pack is captured by the leaf perch on the top of the axle housing. If things are moving around significantly down there, you really need to take everything apart and check it all out. You can bend that center pin, or hollow out the perch if you're driving around with things loose.

It wobbles from stop to go and every bump feels like the differential is not even.
And now....its just all fucked.
Can anyone help? Ill post pictures soon
Pics would be very helpful, and you gotta stop driving it. Like don't drive it at all if your rear is loose. You can screw up a lot of stuff if your rear axle isn't secured. And it's dangerous.

 

Yes, I understand know. My father told me the shackles have to be as tight as the lugs....both of them, or should I say all four of them. And he tried to pry the metal insulator off of the stock leafs without realizing the center bolt had to come off in order to do that. So I took the center bolt off and swapped the metal insulator that goes between the axle/leaf and torqued it to about 30 or 40 since I think it was like an 8mm....
I hope I didnt over torque the pin, but anyway I tried to flatten the semi pry'd insulator and put it on. Lined the pin up to the locating hole and under torqued it.
SOOO in conclusion, I'm a cheap bastard for not getting new shackles/bushing, and U bolts. I tightened the bottom shackle bolt too tight, and probably a couple other things my brain is too embarrassed to remember right now. Bottom line is that these pictures might shock you. They certainly shocked me because I just noticed something.
So I installed them in Washington, Made it down to just past Eugene OR. I re torqued the U bolts a couple times because I assumed the old bolts are just a little stretched, threads too probably. And the passenger side U bolt plate failed so I towed it to a shop. Said I need new U bolts and shackles...they said NO just new leaf springs....so I had to drive a rental down to Cali waited 2 weeks for them to call me and say "The Doormans came in and they are the same exact ones...same part number and everything so we didnt install them" I guess they were convinced I put the wrong leaf springs on....initially thought the overload leaf was upside down...which should have been the first sign... But anyway they sent the ones they ordered back BEFORE they called me to tell me they're charging me 20 bucks for something I could have done with a couple barrel jacks. They just put the leafs back on my truck and when I wasked about the torque ..."Our rule is as tight as possible, and the tighter the better." so they didnt want to buy new U bolts for me, they didnt want to put the doormans on and my transmission pan was empty and the bolts were loose....Sutherlin Auto on W Central if anyone is curious.
Back to the thing I noticed...they added a tiny tiny wedge between the insulator and the axel. the thicker side is pointed to the rear on the passenger side and the opposite on the driver side...is this correct?
They said they didnt find anything wrong with the hole or the center pin, didnt seem loose to them. He said I'd be fine. ...like 400 miles fine?? idk I bought a torque wrench and they gave it back to me with 60 torque on the u bolts probably less...i havent even checked the shackle yet but I already know for a damn fact the thing isn't pivoting. I want to take the damn thing apart again so bad but I guess I should at least wait for some new U bolts + shackles/bushings. I just need someone to look at these springs and tell me if they're salvagable. theres a bubble between the 1st & 2nd leaf but I guess its because they are 2nd action? Anyway, whatever Im gunna tighten everything to what those specs say and drive it a block to my local shop in CA wish me luck.

 

Those are leaf springs new ? Any weight in the bed?

 

Get yourself a digital copy of the Factory Service Manual. It details all the torque specs. Please don't guess with this stuff. It's scary to hear "My dad told me to torque them the same as the lug nuts". That's crazy, wrong, and irresponsible.

To find a copy of the FSM just google search for "2003 tacoma FSM" should easily be able to find it.

Stop driving the truck if you're experiencing ANY movement in the rear end. Also, stop driving it until you get new u bolts. You need to get things sorted out before it's safe for you to continue driving your truck.

The overload leaf should be installed with the opposite arch to the three primary springs. You also shouldn't have to reshuffle the pack or even touch the center pin for that matter in a replacement pack. If shops are telling you to flip the overload over, leave and consider yourself lucky to not have wasted money.

 

yes the stock springs I left in washington, I ordered/installed these when I was up there but I tried cutting corners by reusing the 20 yo parts, they were loose (lower shackle not loose enough) then dropped it off in sutherlin,OR because I live in Cali and had work. I was basically stranded in Oregon without a driveway to work on it or a floor jack to lift the truck. I told the auto shop in sutherlin what i thought it needed new bolts and shackles and they said no "we always use the old ones"

No weight in the back I have maybe a 30 lb toolbox that I strap up against the cab.

 

Okay thank you, I literally had no idea they were supposed to move, he said they dont...I was told to torque the holding bracket while the car is in the air, then torque the bottom after you lower the differential.
But I need to know, it is not worth trying to lift the chassis a bit and retorque everything? or try to remove the movement enough for me to drive it a few blocks?
Im assuming you're going to say no, but im only asking because I can't tow it and I really want to know if these leafs will be fine if I replace the shackle/bushings +Ubolts. or if i should send them back to rockauto

Also...whats up with these wedges they put in? Are they supposed to be angled towards the shocks?

 

Any moving suspension part gets torqued in compression, not droop.

 

Those leafs look terrible. I'd suggest buying new leafs, Ubolts, & shackle bushings, and starting from square one.

That wedge is an axle shim to correct driveline vibrations. Can't say if it should or shouldn't be there, but I can't imagine that jagaloon shop you took it too knew what they were doing, and therefore they probably didn't put the appropriate shim (or maybe it didn't even need one tbh). That being said that is the correct orientation for an axle shim.

 

I got the fsm for a 1999 tacoma and the information matches the specs in the link that Turbo gave me, I really appreciate all the help.

Bro I swear the general springs that they are linking me seem solid for the price, I paid 500 for both of these Daytons and Im about to make a cart on the GS website and see what it comes too. I havent tried yet but Im curious to see if Rockauto will take them back or not. Ive never done a "installed on vehicle" return yet. shit hopefully its free shipping at least cuz the FSM says i need an SST to replace the eye bushing....the bushings there right now, the bottom half of the rubber is pushed completely in, it almost looks like there should be a retainer between the rubber and the nut....those guys at that shop were something else man this is the first time ive ever took my car into a shop. Im not claiming to be an expert or even somewhat knowledgeable with cars, I've always just figured it out by myself, with my dad ridiculing me because the way he explains shit is not for laymen. Anyway its insane the amount of dmg they did to my car. Even my driver side seat has the plastic part ripped off and hanging on by the lever to angle the seat back. The guy literally ripped it off trying to push the seat back.
Anyway, it might have been better for me to put a shim on instead of taking the center bolt off to put the insulator in...im pretty sure Rockauto gunna be like taking the center bolt off to modify the spring nulls any warranty.

 

Dorman, Dayton, Huskey, and General Spring are all the same. If you cross-reference all the part numbers, you'll find they are identical. There is likely one factory actually making those springs, and then the other companies just buy them and slap their label on them. I am not really sure why General Springs got the notoriety for being the go to OEM alternative. Most of the post installation photos I have seen look like yours- W shaped right out of the box.

 

makes sense, the guys at the shop said the doormans were exactly the same as these daytons. Ive just never heard of a shop ordering a part then returning them before they let the costumer know they aren't putting them on. Its honest of them that I saved the money, since they wouldn't have put them on correctly anyway. It kind of makes me want to just get the HDs but...same factor.
Real quick though perhaps you can explain these red bushings in the rear eye. Are they there to help the shackle pivot?
Also is it recommended to grease the inside? I just noticed those guys put grease in and/or around the hanger bushings on top, but not on the bottom ones...

 

I was going to ask the same thing. The shackle angle is what I would expect under load, and one of the leaf packs looks like it is almost fully engaging the overload leaf... but not the other side for some reason.

 

Yeah, do you think having a full tank of gas could effect it? The tanks almost empty now. I mean my guess would be that the threads on the Ubolts are just stretched to the point of no return. Its kind of hard to see because of the glare but the eyelet on the front passenger side looks like its basically sitting at the same height as the tip of the rear overload leaf (which looks like its pointing more upward and then the rear eyelet is sitting a couple inches above that, maybe three.
Theres load inside the XCab, 100 lbs give or take a sub, 30 lb generator couple bottle jacks +stands. Also the street is a bit angled towards that side. Idk i think ima grab some HDs instead.

 

Get the vehicle off your jack and/or jackstands and allow it to rest on its own weight.

Then torque to spec, super simple.

 

Compression means the weight of vehicle on suspension. Like sitting on the ground or on a drive on lift.

Droop would be the suspension hanging unweighted, like with jack stands under the frame or sitting on a chassis type lift.

If the moving parts of the suspension are torqued in droop the vehicle will not sit or ride correctly and the bushings at those points will be destroyed in a fairly short period of use.