Knock Sensor codes p0325 and p0330 ugh!

I replaced the number 1 knock sensor and harness 30k miles ago on my 2002 3.4l supercharged Tacoma and it fixed the p0325 code, thank god. Now I’m getting the code again. First for a few months it was the p0325 code coming on occasionally, about every day or two, now the p0330 code is coming on every 5 minutes and the p0325 code is no longer. I delete the code, then it comes on again immediately. Before I tear into it again I want to make sure it is in fact the knock sensor or harness. I’m confused on what causes these codes to pop up. Some say it only comes on when the knock sensor is bad or the harness is bad, “knock sensor circuit”, but many people talk about it may come on from other lean condition issues like gas delivery, spark plug problems, emission leaks, etc. Because it started out with bank sensor 1 p0325 code(the sensor I replaced) then changed to bank sensor 2 p0330 code, this seems to indicate that it’s not the knock sensor but possibly the harness, grounding issues or something else like an air leak in the intake/emissions. I unhooked the harness, inspected and reconnected and still throwing the p0330 code. Any ideas? I know this topic has been hammered, I searched and didn’t find anything too conclusive. I’m going to clean the throttle body today and inspect grounding wires. If it is true that these codes only come on with circuit issues and not a lean conditions like a lot of people think, then that would make me confident that I have to get to the knock sensors again instead of trying to fix any possible leaning issues. Thanks.

 

I swear this is probably one of the most posted about error codes around. I fought, and am fighting the 325/330 codes for over a year. Replaced both sensors and harness, fixed for about 4 months. Then they came back and I tried many other suggestions, cleanings, etc…. Last thing I did was replace some hoses in the evap system, and cleared the codes and they stay away for a whole 2 days and about 75 miles! Big woop. Anyway, from all I’ve read and researched, the codes trip from sensors, wiring or main computer problems. I do know the knock sensors I have in there are not Oem, and some have suggested that could be an issue.
I’ll be watching here to see if you finally get a resolution.. and find out if I need to replace knock sensors again or something else.

 

I tore into it today, parts are on order. There was a bit of coolant leakage in the valley, but I don’t think enough to cause any problems. Hard to say though. It’s possible a little would cause a short. I’m going to open up the knock sensor wire harness to see if the wires are damaged next time I attack it. I plan on replacing the knock sensor number 2, the one I didn’t replace last time I had this same problem but with number 1. It does seem like its wise to replace both considering I’m doing it for a second time.

Tiebel, I’d bet your problem is the cheap, non Toyota sensors. Everyone says don’t use them.

 

I look forward to hearing if this resolves it for you.

 

I wanted to wrap this thread up to let anyone know if they’re having similar issues. I replaced the number 2 knock sensor and did not replace the number 1 because it had only 30k miles on it and I was hoping for whatever reason the number 2 was throwing the codes for both. Nope. The p0330 code went away but the p0325 code remained. So I dived in again and replaced the number 2 also, and now no codes. So moral of the story, replace both while you’re in there. It may be the case that the super charger is shortening the sensors life due to the extra heat like some have said. The one that went bad at 30k miles was sold to me as denso or matsushita(I can’t remember), but maybe not as it did look different than the one I took out that was original. (I heard that Toyota uses matsushita knock sensors as stock) and it didn’t look like the densos I replaced both of them with. It’s very possible that the auto parts store sold me Chinese trash and said it was Japanese. Anyway, hopefully I don’t have to do it again, I’ve tore it apart 3 times. But I have it down to about 5 hours to do it, so that feels nice. I recommend the copper gasket spray as apposed to smearing rtv all over both sides of gaskets and trying to bolt it down before it drys.

 

Glad you have resolved. I dread getting back into mine, but fear it may be the same issue of having Chinese crap installed and they didn’t last at all. Thanks for updating.