KBS Coatings Rust Seal Frame Coater Kit - Lessons Learned

I wanted to share my experience with this product:
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/frame-coater-kit.html#ReviewHeader

Thanks to TJsingle26 for documenting first:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/kbs-rust-seal-review-picture-heavy.374144/

There are some better guides out there than this write-up so do your homework.

Acquired my first '98 Tacoma this summer (yes, it's the 2WD: workin' with what I got) and wanted to address the frame before the winter set in.
I chose this product because it was the least expensive and seemed to have good reviews.
Others swear by Eastwood and POR-15 products.
This truck came to the Midwest via California a few years back so it wasn't too bad but widespread surface rust starting to set in.

I paid $72 shipped for the 3-part quart-size frame coater kit and the package arrived in a few days.
I had enough paint for 2.5 coats on the entire frame (I know pics are all of rear but I did the front too.)




Prep:
Removed the bed with the help of the neighbors.
6 bolts fasten the bed. Consider finding replacement bolts in advance as mine were pretty rough. Had a use a 3-ft breaker from start to finish on them all. I couldn't find any suitable fits at my local hardware or chain auto parts store. I assumed they'd be easy to find. Didn't try the local Toyota dealer.
Remove all brake light electrical cabling fasteners from the bed underside before lifting.
I decided to go twisted wire wheel and brush as pro sandblasting seemed too expensive and the powerwasher attachment seemed like more trouble than aid.
It cleaned up pretty nice after grinding.

Degrease/Acid Etch:
Found access to a Hotsy and hit it with that first then again at home with the powerwasher.
Diluted the degreaser 5:1 in a bucket and applied with the powerwasher product intake hose.
I applied repeatedly and had plenty left over after several applications so you can go more concentrate. I rinsed and rinsed and hit it again with the powerwasher.

I used the provided spray bottle to apply the acid-etch / iron phosphate. I'd suggest figuring a better application method (pressurized lawn applicator?) as the spray bottle wasn't the best for hard to reach spots. I let it sit about an hour, as long as I could without letting it dry per instructions. I rinsed again pretty good but still had substantial residue from the iron phosphate.








Paint:
I didn't have access to a sprayer so decided to brush on.
They suggest medium quality brushes. I used both low and medium quality and didnt really make a difference as the paint levels out well and both brushes start to gum up pretty quick. I guess others lIke foam brushes but I didn't try that.
Make sure to wear good full protection as this stuff is hard to get off your skin - even if you catch it wet with solvent - and you're bound to get drips. I'm glad I had arm length nitrile gloves because my sleeve riding up and kept exposing my forearms while reaching tough spots.
I would strongly suggest trying to spray on if you can because brushing really sucked.
There were a few tight spots I couldn't really reach and I ended up using a can of Rustoleum Rust Reformer to reach those. That was a last-minute decision so there are probably better products/solutions and you should consider beforehand if you go this route.





In retrospect, I'd probably think twice about paying to have this done as it was pretty shitty work and took about 25 hours project time. A lift and paint spray gun would be nice to have. I'm glad it's taken care of. I'll try to update in the Spring to show how it holds up through winter, sooner if there's peeling.

 

Side question: How easy was it to remove the bed?

 

Not too bad. Remove the tail lights with a screw driver and disconnect. Remove the electrical cabling fasteners. 6 bolts total, 2 in front corners of bed, 4 clustered behind axle. The bolts took some persuading with a breaker bar, couldn't get without. Remove the gas tank collar. Lifted fine with 3 ppl, was real easy to put back on with 4.

 

That is allot of work but it looks well worth it; great looking finished product. I just hope my OEM frame can go through this winter alright. 17 years and no major signs yet *knocks on wood*.

 

Thank you! Most rust coatings look good right after applying. Time will be the true test! I'll be pissed if I have to do this again in less than 5 years. =)

 

Good stuff. What did you do on that rear bumper?

 

As you can see, the chrome plating rusted out on top. I prepped it like the rest of the frame, put 2 coats of rust seal and then top coated with rustoleum metallic finish. The top is covered by plastic so I didn't care too much about appearance.

 

Hey man, just saw your post. Frame looks great!

 

I'm impressed! I POR15ed my rear and front sections of my frame and then said screw it with the middle and I oil sprayed it. You need the patience of a saint to brush the whole thing. Looks like it came out good!

 

Any updates after a few years?

 

Tap the members name and you'll see the last log in was 2015

 

We will never know

 

Not necessarily
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rust-prevention-treatment-consolidation-thread.355928/