kayak rack location - roof top or cap top

Looking at getting a TRD/OR, DC, LB with an ARE V series cap. I kayak, and like Yakima racks. Thoughts, preferences, input on whether to put the Yakima rack on the roof of the double cab, or on top of the cap, and reasoning?

 

What size is your kayak?

 

Mine always went on my cap top. Yakima makes a real nice set-up. Spares the load from the cab.

RZ Rob

 

I have racks on the cab and my cap...
Started with racks on my cap which work great for hauling kayaks and other misc stuff. I decided to add racks over my cab when I bought a SmithFly Raft. Its about 13.5' long so I needed the extra surface area to secure it up top. The extra racks are also good for hauling lumber.
I think you'll have an easier time being able to tie down a kayak on top of your cap just from having the capabilities of being able to stand on your tailgate and situate the boat.

Note: getting the tracks for you camper shell also provides a lot more positioning options for your racks... you are pretty limited with the positioning over the cab

 

If you have the money, I would go Prinsu. Only showing you this because you're a new member and unless you have been around here for a while people dont know of Prinsu.

As for location, depends on length and comfort of carrying. I would do the cap

 

I have the ARE Overland cap with Yakima round bars on top. I have paddleboards that are 12 ft. The lakes up here are still somewhat frozen, so I have not hauled them yet. I got the racks on the cap specifically to carry paddleboards and/or kayaks.

 

I have the ARE V series cap with yakima rack. I went with rack on cap because:

1. I think it is better located for tying down kayak.
2. I installed it myself to save $300, and if I fucked something up, I wouldn't feel as bad doing it on a $1,400 cap instead of a $40k truck.
3. It looks better.

 

Yakima makes great bars but if you go on the cab, be sure and research how you attach. I had the clips on my Tacoma and if I were to do it all over again, I wold not do clips. They are plenty sturdy but I just didn't like the aesthetics long term. Thankfully Yakima has modular bar systems so when it came time to transfer them to my 4Runner, the different clamps worked great with the 4runner rails.

 

ARE-V Series w/ factory tracks. Landing Pad #1, Skyline Towers, CoreBars, JayLow (hold 2 kayaks). This is my setup, and I like how easy it is to adjust for when I need to mount my basket.

 

Also worth noting... Yakima recently discontinued all of their old style rack systems. You will only be able to purchase a 500$ base rack for the cab directly from Yakima or one of their dealers. As for the cap you will still be able to use old style towers and landing pads with the universal track system which is going to be easier to come by on the used market. I think I paid 200$ for a set from craigslist for my cap and around 480$ for the set on my cab.

 

I do not have a cap, but I would put the rack on the cap if I did.

For my setup because I don't have a cap I installed Rhino Rack on the roof, bolt in no clips and higher weight rating (220lb vs 160lb for Yakima clips and 100lb for OEM).

If I had a cap I would rather have the rack on there for ease of loading. If you don't have side steps or sliders it's going to be hard to get up there and tie them off - w/ out a cap I can at least stand in the bed (and I have sliders so side access will be easier as well.

Nothing wrong with Yakima but as another poster mentioned for the roof mount the clips are ugly (and lower weight rating).

 

.... just noticed you want a long bed, I def wouldn't put anything on the roof if you are going to have that kind of cap real estate, why over hang your windshield if you don't have to?

 

I choose to install one bar on each. I pull a camper and can't have the kayaks overhanging the rear too much, so I needed to center the kayaks.

 

@2016_dbag how'd that install go? Any leaks? Been thinking about putting Thule rails on myself. Looks pretty easy from youtube videos...

 

Wasn't too hard at all. I just grabbed a 6 pack and took my time with the measurements before drilling holes. The hardest part of the whole thing was tightening the bolts closest to the cab. My cap doesn't have side windows that open, so I had to get creative with a way to hold the allen key in place on top while I tightened the bolts inside. I used a LOT of silicone in the holes, and so far no leaks. And I just went through a winter in Oregon, so I think I'm good

 

hah, not just "a winter"... fair to say it passed the test.

 

Same for me, except its Thule. I have a Prinsu rack for the cab and cap on order because I wanted a better solution. At the end of the day, the Prinsu wasn't too much more than a Yakima/Thule setup. I went Thule because I had a system from previous vehicles, but the mounting points are not worth it. I should have just went Prinsu from the start and saved myself $200.

 

Finally got to put the kayaks on the rack today, they fit awesome! Far enough forward so I don't have to worry about sharp turns when pulling the trailer.

 

I like how your clipped into the hood on the front there without running a line all the way to the front. I need to do that from now on.