JL VX 1000/5i 5 Channel Amp initial impressions

Well, I changed my whole system again. If you are keeping score, I have gone from a(n) Arc Audio XDi850.5, to an AudioControl LC 6-1200 (and added a miniDSP C-DSP 6x8) to finally the JL VX1000/5i with integrated TuN software. Here are my initial impressions:

The Good:

1. Easy instructions
2. TuN initial setup is really easy if you use the setup tool.
3. Plenty of support via instructional videos
4. Aesthetically pleasing
5. Clean power/sound
6. Clean and easy connections
7. TuN DSP integration is excellent.

The Bad

1. The easy connectors stick out a little
2. $$$$$$$

TuN Interface:



I am still working with Room EQ Wizard to get the PEQ values I need to install.


I used connectors for the speakers for ease of connections







The AudioControl certainly put out more power, but I was trying to overcome road noise - I have since figured out and mitigated the loudest noises (rear bulkhead vents - covered with convoluted acoustic foam - with no pressure issues), so the JL sounds great. Once I get done with REW (I'm having microphone issues) and tweak the PEQ, it's going to sound fantastic.

The amp is powering and actively running

CDT Unity 8.0 widebands (holy crap these are fantastic)
Morel Tempo Ultra 6x9 drivers in the front doors
JL 12TW3-D8 sub

I also purchased the optional JL Audio DRC-205 (not pictured) which controls the sub attenuation as well as a master volume, AND you can toggle between multiple tune profiles!

I'm really hoping this is the last amp I buy......

 

I’m kinda down with wide bands too right now. The JL DRC is excellent too. I don’t really use the volume control on my stereo anymore because of boot up time, and the stepped volume change progression. It’s easier to just turn the knob down when I’m getting out and bump it back up when I want more power. Quick toggle presets is really nice too, and Valet mode, what a dick move but I love it.

Where did you mount your LED?

 

CDT audio makes some neat stuff. I'd eventually like to do something similar with the JL vx700/5i, the JL stealthbox, and those 6x9 morels or a 6.5 focal flax.

 

The DRC is killer. I mounted it in the same spot I have put all my amp dials, I'll take a pic tomorrow.

I didn't even hook up the valet.

 

I love using the volume control on it! So much easier.

 

I'm curious, when you set your gains, did you follow the directions and play music, or did you use test tones or pink noise?

 

I use an oscilloscope and test tones.

 

I used test tones, but used the software to set the levels. I'm just hoping I'm not missing out by using music as specified....

 

It's not like you can't sorta trust JL because if there is any company guilty of overthinking shit, it's JL. Keep in mind you are talking about a VXi amplifier, and I have HD amplifiers, so the setup procedure for each is different.

Now, I like to know exactly where I'm going to get clipping at each step along the signal path, so I'll check the fader setting on the radio for that spot where it first clips (and remember that number), or if you have an aftermarket, it probably won't clip even at full volume (if you buy nice stuff), like the Kenwood in my Tacoma. The Entune 3.0 in my 4Runner will begin to clip at fader 49 using a 1KHz sine @0dB reference.

Once you know this value, you can begin to make decisions. Am I going to keep it turned down, and run the input signal hot? Do I not trust myself and limit my overall potential volume (meaning your normal listening level would rest at a higher fader value).

The manufacturers of all of this equipment has no faith in your ability to calm any sort of tits when it comes to listening volumes, so their instructions generally lean on the safe side because they don't want you to do what you want, blow something up and then go bitch to them about it. Yes, there are dicks that do that. If you don't follow the manual, you can't really make a warranty claim and pretend to be blameless right?

So, knowing I'll get signal clipping at 49 and above in the 4Runner, I know I can run max voltage on everything else along the chain and avoid clipping/distortion as long as I don't turn the stereo up any higher than that. By max voltage, I mean set to maximum specified values, not just jacked all the way up. So this means I can set the stereo fader at 48, and connect my scope to the output of the next device like the DSP, and set sensitivity on that to get maximum output voltage with no clipping, then I'll move to the amplifier and do the same thing.

You can fudge stuff here and there, people like to build in headroom when tuning their system sometimes because not all sources are set to the same reference. I have a lot of old CDs for instance, and they simply aren't mastered nearly as hot as the new stuff so there will easily be a 10-15 fader value difference between those for the same output volume. This means, with music from these older CDs (unless I've normalized them when ripping to a digital file), the factory radio isn't reaching the voltage at which it begins to clip until way past 49, and depending on the input strength, I may never be able to reach that threshold even at maximum output volume. God forbid you have your player on shuffle though, and forget to turn it down between songs, because if a new recording comes up next you're probably going to brick something.

It takes a lot of specific knowledge to run a high output stereo and these are just a few of the considerations, and it's the very reason some of these DSPs have Valet modes that enable you to nerf the system when someone else has your truck.

So yeah, it's complicated but JL is really good about providing you kind of the best middle ground solution, which is why they chose 3/4 volume. It allows for that headroom and moderate distortion for short periods at the expense of some potential fidelity in the event you're simply one of those people that either can't hear or doesn't care when the system is struggling.

 

So I have listened to the system for a little over a week, switching between the 3 settings on the DSP. A couple of items of note:

1. I've been listening to music at lower volume levels than I have ever before when the windows are up. My sound deadening, while not perfect, has done a wonderful job of mitigating road noise/vibrations, and the music is just flat out enjoyable.
2. At high volumes, I am getting ear fatigue quickly.
3. I set the volume of the head unit to the volume I set the gains at, and have been using the DRC for the volume control, making it incredibly easy for me to find that "sweet spot" of volume.
4. Something is not right with the staging of the subwoofer. The bass seems muddy for some reason - I'm not getting that ridiculous thump that I love from that sub.
5. I've been listening primarily to the green profile. When I go to the blue profile, it just seems like there is too much bass overlapping.
6. Those Unity 8.0s absolutely amaze me. The highs are nice and crisp, while bringing the sound stage for the low(er) end up higher on the dash.
7. The "Ron's AF Tune" is the file I am trying to learn with. Right now it has no EQ'ing, only X'Overs. It's volume is really loud, and I attribute that to not being eq'd.

Green file crossovers:


Blue file crossovers:



White file crossovers:

 

Not sure why you aren’t using the same settings for your mid bass speakers. You have a smaller bandwidth and steeper low pass on one side.

I also don’t know why you would mix Linkwitz Riley and Butterworth on the same channel. It defeats the purpose of using Linkwitz Riley because of how the different components interact at the crossover point.

You would only mix crossover orders if you are trying to solve a problem, generally all of the settings are uniform, so if you low pass at 24dB, you would high pass the same amount. If not you cause phase shift at the crossover point.

You also generally low and high pass from one frequency rather than creating a gap or overlap. I think your sub is low passed a little too high on the green profile.

I’ve found that it’s easy to get ear fatigue if you are too hot around 100Hz or too hot in the high midrange. You might have one or both of those conditions.

 

The blue settings were made by a guy on DIYMA. The way he explained it was in order to get the LR 24dB slope acoustically, seting them electronically in this fashion gets you there.

I'm not sold on it.

The green profile is getting updated tomorrow with more traditional LR crossovers at 24dB slopes, with no overlap. The gap between the sub low pass and the mid high pass is right from Andy's audiofrog tune guide.

I'm not sold on that either.

I'm trying to learn how to tune this myself, but REW is kind of kicking my ass.. ..

 

Yeah I read that a couple weeks ago and for all we know he makes that recommendation because his sub honks like a mofo at 70Hz. Keep in mind his tuning guide is meant to be applied to the speakers they sell. All of your tuning choices are situational so pretty much keep it simple and standard until you run into something that needs a solution, and it may be that changing some crossover settings is the best solution which is fine, but have a reason first is my advice.

 

Wow, nice setup. Your install looks nice and clean. You and I are running VERY similar systems.

Some notes:

Andy's tuning guide is invaluable for this whole process. As is the UM-1 and the included tuning CD. If you're having mic issues, this setup is well worth the money.

24dbLW everywhere. Just do it.

Really. I mean REALLY! Get the speaker distance measurements set correctly.

I personally wouldn't x those Unity's any lower than 400. You are at 300 in the first screen shot you put up. Yikes.

Also, knock out everything below 30hz or so on the sub. You’re just wasting power there. I made the slope a bit sharper here.

Here's my current x's. I've tweeked a tiny bit here and there. But for the most part; Get these set and leave em alone.




Tuning/house curves: Andy's sounds nice. But, it lacks punch. Especially when the truck is driving. I have tuned to something more bottom heavy and like it for the most part. Lost a bit of clarity in the process. I have more to offer in that department over on DIYMA. (post currently under construction)

 

This is a great post. A really great post.

I changed everything on my tune (green) to 24LR. Also crossed at 400 for the CDTs. I also found that my dash speakers polarity was wrong, and that is what was probably giving me ear fatigue.

I have a steep learning curve, but like I said, REW is killing me lol

 

Spend the time and read through Andy's tuning guide that I posted there. I learned a TON. I'm actively tweeking this system (pun intended) so let me know where I can help.

 

I've been getting remote help from a member over on DIYMA (jtrosky), that blue tune is his tune.

REW is just killing me. It isn't exactly user friendly - of course I didn't read through the whole tuning guide, and I'm sure I skipped a step in calibrating the sound card on the laptop, causing shit to go sideways. I'm using the UMIK-1 mic.

 

That’s funny. James has helped me out quite a bit too. If you look closely at those house curves in my post above, you’ll notice that one of them is his.

I found the same with REW initially. Again, referring to Andy’s tuning guide, he totally walks you through the setup of what you need to do.