It got me too - Drive start control malfunction

On Tuesday morning my 2018 sport would crank but not start with the Drive/Start Control malfunction error. Fuses and relays appear fine and I had to resort to having it towed to a dealer. I will update the findings to benefit others.(fuel pump recall was performed a few years back)

 

the PopnLock is somehow shorting the communication to the ECM. Currently the harness is back to stock but now I have several O2 sensor codes, any ideas? The dealer was of little help, they just got unplugged the popnlock and it started and that's all they were able to do

 

Are any wires damaged?

 

I’m guessing I’m not the only one unfamiliar with the “Drive/Start Control malfunction error” and “PopnLock”.

 

Sorry about the troubles, OP. I’m curious, did the PopnLock actuator relay have a flyback diode attached to it to prevent voltage spikes?

 

so no frayed wires, I re-connected the Pop-n-Lock and and it starts/runs fine however I still have O2 sensor codes.

This happened the morning after a fairly significant electrical storm, I'm starting to wonder if it was struck

 

Any damage on the truck? Lightening would leave a mark on it

Im wondering if the actuator on the PopnLock caused a voltage spike -
That’s why I mentioned the diode protection.

 

No obvious lightning strike evidence. The popnlock has 2 ATO fuses inline that did not blow. I don't know if there's a diode in the servo mechanism

 

What is the Drive/Start Control malfunction error? is that a common issue with 3rd gens?

 

A flyback diode just needs to go across the positive and negative leads going to it- like this:

 

Apparently some people are getting the error code from system issues- the 10amp STOP fuse blows, PopnLock kits, and shorts in the brake tail light wiring and bulbs. It’s not common, just looks like it as TW tends to be a magnet where a few people out of all the hundreds of thousands without an issue go to get help with something…

 

Lol

 

no blown fuses, the issue is a bit crypic. I'll take it to an independent shop to see what can be found

 

no update yet, going to indy shop in 2 weeks

 

update:
The indy shop ran tests and determined it to be an ECU and said to take it to a dealer since it's still under warranty(51K miles currently). Indy shop didn't charge. Second dealer checked it, ran test with support and determined it was a bad ECU, ECU replaced and back on the road for no charge. Bredemann Toyota came through with great support and turnaround time. Leader Toyota can suck it