Is this HG’s or lower intake plenum?

Still in the midst of my lower plenum/ valve clearance job. I would like y’all’s opinions on this showing the valve covers (definitely leaking), engine valley/ heads.
I have wiped/ mopped up several ounces of what I assume to be coolant out of the valley before taking this video. The whole reason for the tear down was a coolant leak believed to be from the lower plenum.
1st bit of video is just showing the leaking VC’s.

 

From the pics I'd say oil is from valve cover gaskets, coolant is from intake valley gaskets. Could stop there and see. Going full head gasket change is at least going to double the time and cost.

 

Thanks those are my thoughts as well. What do you think about the glistening spots at the head gasket?

 

Not sure. How many miles on the engine? Any exhaust smell or smoke? Loss of oil?

 

She’s no spring chicken, 278k. Credit where it’s due though, only “uses” a quart of oil every 4,000 miles WITH bothe VC’s leaking.

 

OK, I'd change the head gasket then. Make sure you get new head bolts. Don't forget the washers, keep the valve caps in the same order, and follow the loosen and torque specs to a tee.

 

She’s only a late spring chicken.

For what it’s worth, I was losing at least that much oil when I bought ol’ blue with ~260xxx miles. I always thought that it was a combination of burning and valve cover leaks (which I still have not felt like dealing with).

But the real culprit was the rear main seal, which I discovered was where the vast majority of my oil loss was. After I fixed that, the valve covers turn out to actually leak a very small amount compared to what I thought and I use a quart in more like 6-8,000 miles with 378,000 miles.

I just needed to add a quart at 378,000 so I will watch more closely for how long it takes to go through a quart.

But ya, you could be leaking out your rear main seal, which you have to drop the transmission to replace. If you have a manual truck, when you do your clutch, do your rear main seal.

edit:added quote

 

Thanks for the info you guys! Fantastic engines, the dipstick in my my ‘02 with 220k reads the same as it did 5k miles ago with no oil added!

 

If it was me I would take the thermostat bypass tube off and replace the gasket just because you are in there. I would also replace the knock sensor harness for the same reason. While not “maintenance” items the bypass tube gasket is one of those “I am having to add coolant but I cant find the leak” things.

 

valve cover job is on my spring 2022 list of things to do. anyone have a part number for this gasket.

 

Good idea Glamisman, I’m doing the knock pigtail and both sensors. One of the sensors crumbled when I was carefully trying to disconnect. I’ll be doing the bypass as well!
If the heads end up being warped, what’s usually recommended? Can they be decked and run a custom thickness gasket?

 

if you are talking warpage where the lower intake sits that usually isn’t a problem. What usually is a problem is corrosion pits around the water crossover passages on both the heads and lower intake. Depending on how deep they are and if they extend to where they aren’t supposed to there are different approaches to the fix.

 

I filled the coolant passages in the heads and let it sit for a day. It’s definitely time for a head gasket job.
I was wanting to purchase a machinist straight edge to check the heads a block, but the more I read I believe I’ll have the machine shop check the heads.
I assume the head bolts aren’t to be re used? I haven’t found yet if they’re torque to yield or not.

Got the timing belt and plate off today, hopefully tomorrow I can pull exhaust and maybe the heads.