Interior fuse box diagram help

What do these mean? I’m not understanding what some of the acronyms mean. I’m trying to hardwire a dash cam that requires a constant 12v power source even when the truck is off and an accessory source only giving power when the truck is started. Help?

 

On my 18, that blank space on the bottom left was powered all the time. I used an add-a-fuse there to tap into it, but I only needed the one fuse since it was empty in the first place.

 

I believe both door fuses should be constant. If you have a test light or multimeter, you can test it pretty easy. Then use a fuse tap.

 

Empty space always hot, Poutlet1 key on power.

 

I was thinking the AM1 was also, but couldn’t remember for sure. Good to know

The p/outlet “might” be too. Been a few since I wired my stuff up.

 

If you don't have a sun roof, that's a good one for switched power... or the washer. For constant power the blank one bottom left or the dome.

 

15A Hazard lights will be your constant power
3rd from the bottom right.

20A Sunroof for ACC. POWER. 5TH from the bottom left.

Use a add a fuse on both and match the fuse the hot. And 5 amps lower for the acc power.

 

I have a tap on P outlet 1 and it cycles on/off with ignition.

 

Sliding Roof 20A is always "hot"...

 

2017 Sliding Roof 20A is ACC?

 

Should be as it wont open when the key is off.

 

Ah..the mystical "should". It does not open due to getting a signal from another location and fuse...but the fuse itself is always hot...

 

On both sides? Let me go and see. But hey I've been wrong before.

 

While you’re out there, we need a write up with you testing every fuse (individual pics) for constant vs acc power. Do it for the TW community and science.

 

This is something I'm also wondering. Is there a chart or diagram or something that tells when each fuse is hot or not? Depending on the ignition mode, a given fuse may be live or not. And some may be always on. I wish there was a list...

 

You're sure the dash cam must be running 24/7? One of the weakest links with dash cams is the memory card. They have a failure rate, even if you spend the high dollar $$$ on the good brands. But much more so if you're recording 24/7 because the card is constantly being written to and that wears it out faster.

And hopefully you're using a hardwire power supply block that knows to automatically shut down if the truck battery gets below a certain voltage.

 

Some (like mine) have impact features so it records/saves when hit. Also most the hard wire kits come with a power cord that stops drawing if the battery reaches a certain voltage.

 

Parking mode in most dashcams don't record continuously. Only when movement is detected. Of course if you're parked on a busy street or parking garage with a lot of in and outs you're going to see a lot of recording. FWIW, I've had a 128 card in mine for over a year and it's still going strong without errors. The women's voice hiding in there is supposed to let me know if she encounters any recording errors. So far just "shutting down" or Blackview for your safe driving"

 

Here is the cover from a 19 4runner. Should be the same. If you look the Mark's on cover are ACC. And yes the sunroof is Constant power.

 

Blackvue Power Magic Pro install guide recommends HAZ for constant and POutlet for switched.
Works great, lasts about 10 hours from shutdown with my DR590-2CH.