Installing JL 10tw3 with Kenwood x501-1

I found out I have the D4. So does this mean I wire for 2 ohm or 8?

 

Is my amp to powerful for my sub at 2 ohms? Is now the question lol

 

That means you can ONLY wire it to 2ohm or 8ohm. Your amp is rated at 500 watts at 2ohm, but your sub says 400 watts RMS. So, your amp could theoretically be putting out more wattage than your sub can handle.

I would assume there is a way to counteract this wattage overage, but I can’t say for sure how to achieve it. Maybe when setting the gain on your amp you just don’t set it to the maximum level like normal? I really don’t know.

However, maybe someone else on here can weigh in on that.

With that said, you’ll want to wire it like the picture below to achieve 2ohm.

 

Okay let’s see if someone weighs in. I found this on google.. maybe 2 ohms is okay as long as I don’t boost the bass or volume?

 

I also found this https://www.manualslib.com/manual/626476/Jl-Audio-10tw3-D4.html?page=3#manual

 

Good stuff right there.

btw, did you order Mr. Marv's box directly with him or go thru that Sound Shop you talked about? What description did you give him/them of the box you wanted from Mr. Marv? and soooooo this box you have did not require any mods, removing the plastics and your rear seat latches, etc.? Although I could save $400 vs a Stealthbox but I don't know if I'd want to wait months on end. Sure wood like to see pictures of your box install

 

I

I will post pictures of the install. And the box and sub. Although I am still waiting on the posts for the wires. It does require the removal of the plastic behind the seat. I purchased everything through Mr Marv. I stopped by that audio shop on my way home from work and asked a question is all. After they treated me weird I decided Tacoma world will be more helpful.

 

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/626476/Jl-Audio-10tw3-D4.html?page=4#manual
page 4 of the manual explains the minimal and max power requirements. Since my amp will be in the max range for this sub at 2 ohms I am going to wire it at 8 ohms. This should from what I’m reading keep me in a good range with the sub and amp combo. I also read in the manual for my amp that it is compatible to be wired at 8 ohms.
I hope this works!!
Now I must wait for ports.. hopefully the screws for the sub come as well.

 

What type of wires do I use for this? From what I can tell I just use regular DC wire.

 

google speaker wires. You may want to search speaker wire size and formulas to find the correct gauge, I'd get speaker wires that are at least equal to your rated "speaker's" amp/watt ratings. At least that since you're not supposed to go over max speaker ratings or you risk blowing the woofer.

I read JL Stealthbox w/10" manual and iirc it states they recommend 12gauge speaker wire. I'd assume use 12gauge between coils and woofer post to box post? It's just an extension from woofer to cabinet post and ultimately to amp speaker wire they recommend. idk but think it's a good guess. If no screws included, Homedepot or hardware store to buy some screws. Take your time, enjoy the install

there are more knowledgable posters here, hopefully they chime in

 

What posts are you waiting on? Like terminal posts to bolt into the enclosure? Just pop a hole slightly larger than the wire you'll be using, run the wire through, and seal it. Maybe put that somewhere you can put posts later if you don't like that route. 14 ga wire is more than enough.

You'd be OK with a 2 ohm load, but you would void your sub's warranty. Then again, it seems like you're pretty new at this, so underpowering the sub might not be a bad thing. Maybe start with 8 (series). You can always change it later. Most that are really into the hobby overamp, myself included, but maybe you should save that for down the road

 

You also don't need to use/wire in both voice coils on the sub. You can use one and it'll work fine.

Having more power available than what the speaker is rated for is only an issue if you're cranking it hard.

Connecting speakers with a lower than minimum stated impedance to the amp will cause overheating and eventually blow it up as it were.

I like large amps for the headroom in the amp for transients... Hard bass notes, cymbal crashes, etc.

 

What he said. It’s not optimal but DVC subs for car audio are meant to give you three options for final impedance, half or double when connected together, or you can simply use one of the voice coils to get the rated value of one coil, but basically it means you bought the wrong sub if you are forced to do that. The Thiele Small values change depending on how you connect it as well, so this should be a consideration when selecting your subs.

There are other ways to connect DVC subs that are never used, like shorting or putting a resister across the second coil to change damping.

Generally you should work out your power and impedance before acquiring your sub driver(s) so you don’t end up in this position.

 

Ye

Yes I am waiting on terminal posts to bolt onto the enclosure. Are you saying just wire the wires from the sub to the amp wire direct? Like heat seal them together without the posts?

That’s exactly what I was thinking for going to 8 ohms instead of two. But after reading the reply’s after you maybe I should stick to 2 ohms.. I was instructed my amp would be fine with this sub,, although looking back I should have done more due diligence.

 

in the manual is says to use both voice coils, am I missing something?
I get it now

 

After reading your and Larrzz reply 3 times I understand what you both are saying. I am
New to this and now I feel a lot more confident with the install. Thankyou all for that.

Here is my thoughts after reading your reply’s.

More power is better but I probably should have picked a more optimal amp for this sub. Especially since going to 2 ohms voids the warranty. Soo it sounds like there is risks with this sub going either way 2 or 8 ohms, unless of course I get a different amp. I don’t want to do what larzz said will happen at 8 ohms so I will run it at 2 ohms. I have a bass
Knob as well and won’t overdo it and try and go easy on the sub.

 

What I said was just the opposite. A 2 ohm speaker load will damage the amp whereas am 8 ohm speaker won't.
The 2 ohm speaker will generate higher levels of sound at the expense of the amplifier being overworked, which will cause it problems.

The 8 ohm speaker won't go as loud as the 2 ohm speaker, but the amp will be much happier driving an 8 ohm load vs a 2 ohm load

 

All you need to do is limit the output of the amplifier when you set the input sensitivity. 28.3VAC is your target output voltage for 400W @ 2 Ohms.

 

Wtf.... I am seeing my last post as if it was the left page of a book turned over and now I am looking at the page through the back of the sheet.

 

Yeah, I was saying wire straight to the sub without posts or terminals. Yeah, hot glue could work well. So can good caulk or wood glue mixed with sawdust.

I was actually suggesting you wire in series and stick with 8 ohms for lower power output seeing how you're new to this. That avoids voiding your subwoofer's warranty also. Not because you wired it in parallel for a 2 ohm load, but because the amp is rated at 500W at 2 ohms and the sub is rated at 400W. Over at JL that voids the warranty.