Installing a rear locker on 1st gen Sr5

I know this is possible, but has anyone done this recently?

Is finding the part easy and not insanely expensive? Or is it a treasure hunt on eBay and here?

 

Yep, done all the time.

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyo...98-t100-8-4-rear-air-locker-by-arb-rd129.html

There are other brands, too. Eaton, Yukon...

IMO, don't bother trying to put a TRD E-locker on it unless you have one laying around. You need a TRD axle housing, and it's hard(er) to find E-locker parts, too. TRD lockers are nice, but ARB is overall much nicer.

 

Perfect. Thanks. I was starting the search with exclusively trd e-lockers because I wasn’t sure which after market I wanted.

That was my next question and you answered both. Thanks!

 

The TRD e-lockers can't be bought separate and the axle they fit is specific to the e-locked trucks, so the only easy way to put a TRD e-locker on your truck would be to swap in a TRD axle with an e-locker already in it. And if you have 4wd you'd have to be sure that the gearing of that axle matches the gearing you have up front.

Aftermarket lockers are generally easier but can be pricey.

 

Its cheaper to buy a complete elock axle then an arb by itself. Folks will tell you arb is stronger and bla bla bla but I would disagree. I ran 37 inch tires on both lc hp elocker & standard Tacoma elocker without issue for years.

Complete trd axle are dime and dozen on craigslist, ranging from 6-800 buck. That way, you can sell your complete axle to recoup some money, another plus side.

 

Maybe where you're from you can't swing a dead cat and not hit TRD axles, but that's not the case everywhere. You still need to worry about gearing, and also the fact you're throwing used gear with an unknown history at your truck. You might just be opening up another can of worms there.

Some say that the 8.4" (non-locker diff) is stronger, but I have my doubts about that.

It's not about the ARB being stronger, I don't hear of hardly anyone breaking *either* locker. It's about better engagement. I've driven with both the E-locker on my Tacoma and my buddy has dual ARBs on his Rubicon. My locker has always had a bit of a delay and can be hard to engage sometimes. The ARBs were seamless and engaged immediately under any circumstance.

IMO, ARBs are a better locker, but the E-lockers are *very* good too.

 

This is all just a hypothetical conversation I suppose.

In my hunt I'm just trying to open up my search to also SR5 and not just TRD. Im not opposed to adding things later especially since it will cost me less up front to buy a truck without the locker and then add it once a build up more funds again.

 

I have a complete e locker rear axle for sale. $1000
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rear-e-locker-axle-for-sale.612535/

 

It depends, you might find a good deal on a TRD for a good price, maybe it has issues elsewhere that make up for the increased value of having a locker.

I think you are right to be looking at all your options. Being that 1st gens are getting harder and harder to find in good shape, you're going to have to make some compromises. If you find a good SR5, I wouldn't hesitate.

Hell, if you find a good PreRunner, that shouldn't be ignored either. Often times, you can convert a Pre-reunner to 4x4 for less than it would cost to find a comparable 4x4. Plus, the TRD Prerunners do have lockers, too. For the 1st gen Pre-runners, it is a bolt on affair, and there are several people who have made the conversion with just basic handtools. You can buy all the parts for around $1500, and that doesn't include selling your prerunner transmission.

TRD lockers aren't plug n play either, you still need to wire the locker, install switches, etc...

Like I said, the TRD lockers are great lockers, but don't let it be a deal breaker for your search.

 

same size gears but trussed bearing caps and a larger pinion bearing makes the 8.4 a little stronger.

 

I have Eaton Tru tracks on front and rear. I had it done with the gear install at my local 4WPs store. I did a lot of research on them prior to purchase and seemed like the best bang for the buck. They work great so far in sand and mud. I haven't had any wheel lift since having them installed so I haven't experienced having to tap the brakes to get them to engage.

 

Yes, I mean more in a practical sense. I don't see a lot of either diff breaking. So what little added strength there might be is superfluous.

 

true. only time ive heard of the elocker failing was on 2nd gens

 

Had more issue with my arb then my elocker.

 

For every story of someone with an issue with their ARB, there is another with a stuck solenoid on their elocker.

At least when you have an issue with an ARB, you can get parts for it, likely under warranty (if purchased <5 years ago). Any time you have an issue with a 1st gen elocker you have to head to the junkyards or ebay.

 

I have talked to a few people and it seems like ARB issues are more likely due to a flaky locker or compressor install than the actual locker failing.


As to the whole axle; in the denver area you can expect to pay $1200~ for the complete axle so the choice isn't so clear. Although you also have to buy a compressor you can use ARB's larger compressors to air up your tires.

 

Issue is not with the locker itself. Just the hassle of replacing leaking oring in the housing x2, bad oring in the banjo x1, and bad pressure switch at the compressor x1. Maybe the switch for the locker will be next? Who know? One two many parts for potentially failure. Once air leak, locker is useless if it can't hold pressure. I know guys have had issue with the copper line getting chew by the ring or 6mm plastic air line breaking as well.

At least with the elocker, if the actuator fails, you can still manually engage the locker.

I dont carry spare parts for the elocker, but I do for the arb. Spare compressor/locker switch, air line, in cab switch and so on. That's a funny one.

 

I don't think I've ever carried a spare switch for anything. Just side cutters and electrical tape, lol

My whole point is just that there are advantages and disadvantages to both, and that neither really seam to be universally better. Some people think the elockers are superior, I guess just because Toyota uses them, and they are good lockers, but not (IMO) to the point where I would refuse to buy a truck that wasn't a TRD, or insist on sourcing a junkyard/used axle to put one on.

 

I concur. I shopped around a lot when I wanted more traction. Pretty much any method of adding a locking differential to a non-TRD Off Road Tacoma is going to be expensive, even if you install it yourself. At first I thought a complete TRD e-locker axle would be best, but they're rare in my original 4:30 gear ratio. I got a quote for one shipped from a junkyard a few states away and it was over $1000. If I bought one local with the wrong gear ratio, I'd have to have it re-geared. Since my truck is a non-TRD, I also would have had to purchase an aftermarket wiring harness that works without the 4WD computer equipped on TRD trucks. Either way I'd be at well over $1000 for a used axle with much higher miles on it than the rest of my truck.

ARB's are world-reknowned but the compressors are slow for anything but powering the diff locks. The first time I saw one in action airing-up tires, I knew I wanted co2 instead. That led me to deciding on a Harrop e-locker for my rear diff last year. I have liked it so much that now I'm almost done installing one for the front as well. The wiring harnesses are included, they're dead-simple and they're not tied into any OEM wiring for the 4WD system. That means you don't have to do another "mod" for your diff locks to work in 4HI or 2WD.

The Detroit TrueTrac is hands-down the best limited slip. They use worm gears instead of Posi-style wet discs that wear out over time. I considered those too, but now I'm glad I decided to hold out until I could afford selectable lockers.