Installation of Lower Ball Joints/Front Shocks. Tips or Tricks?

Hey Guys,

I am looking into installing my new OEM LBJs and Blistein 4600s into my truck over the weekend. The shop I typically go to isn't able to fit me in until next week and with a long weekend coming up I figure it might be a good time to give it a shot myself. It'll be nice to save some money as well.

Replacing the front end components kind of scares me, but I think I am capable.

I've watched a couple of videos online of the installation of the LBJs. It doesn't seem all that hard to do, but I was wondering if there was any tips or lessons learned about replacing them. I believe the ones on my truck are original, I am the second owner.

A couple of questions about LBJs/Shock Installation:

1. Torque Specs for the bolts and castle nut? I have read that the mounting nuts are 43 ft-lb and the stud on the balljoint is 105 ft-lb.
2. What tools? Pitman Puller and some sort of press?
3. Is using a spring compressor the best method for assembling the shocks? I've seen people use the weight of their truck to compress the coil, but to me that seems more dangerous than using a spring compressor...

Does anyone have any additional advice or tips for the install of these parts?

Thank you!

 

Print these out and keep them handy (I laminated them to keep in my truck)

LBJs are pretty darn easy, I highly recommend using a Pitman puller to separate the outer tie rod as well as the old ball joint. Smacking it loose with a hammer isn't as easy as the videos make it look (at least it wasn't for me). Pitman pullers are cheap and work great.

I would take your shock and coil assembly out and have a shop separate them to be honest...spring compressors are no joke and can do serious bodily damage if you make a mistake with them. A shop will separate them for you and put the new ones together quickly and cheaply, then all you have to do is bolt them in.

 

Thanks man. That is incredibly helpful!

I wouldn't need a press or anything for the LBJs? I was thinking about using Advanced Auto Parts loaner tool program. A puller at Harbor Freight its like $14 though.

The spring compressor scares me, but I think its doable. Not too sure of shops in my area who would assemble the shocks for me...

 

No press needed for the LBJs, after you separate them with the pitman puller the new one goes right in place when you torque it down.

 

Good deal. Thank you!

 

Make sure you support the frame on jackstands because you need the suspension to be free and drooped all the way down to remove the shocks.

The spring compressor is definitely intimidating, but just take your time, and like firearms, don't point the springs at anything you don't want destroyed, lol.

I recommend using a hand wrench or a socket rather than a drill or an impact gun with tightening the compressor arms. Like I said, go slow.

A little trick is to NOT completely remove the castle nuts (for the tie rod ends and the lower control arm) before you pop them free with the pitman arm puller. That way, when you pop the arm free, things don't go shooting across the garage.

For re-installing the castle nuts, use the torque specs, and if the cotter pin doesn't quite line up, tighten (don't loosen) the castle nut until you can get a cotter pin in.

Also, for the 4 bolts on the bottom of the BJ: be cognizant of the length of the bolts. Some people say the bolts are all the same size, mine were not. I guess it depends on which BJs you get... I wasn't paying attention and I tried to install a shorter bolt where the longer size was needed, and I stripped the first couple threads of my spindle. Luckily, I was able to use a tap to clean out the threads and use a loner bolt and I dodged a bullet of having to buy a new spindle.

 

Excellent tips. Thank you guys for the help. I'll post some pictures of the install/completed product!

 

Here's the relevant pages from the FSM (you'll find that in the stickies section of the 1st gen forum)

Pair this with the info @eon_blue posted and reference the lower ball joint vid below - you'll do fine. Be safe, take your time.

Personally, I'd pay a shop to the do coilover assembly. All it takes is one f-up using those cheapo spring compressors from harbor freight or autozone and you're hurting. A lot of energy stored in the coil spring. Enough to seriously injure/kill. Not trying to be a d*ck, just calling it for what it is. Follow the FSM to remove the coilover assembly and take it to your local shop to assemble it with your new parts. Charge should be minimal.


Lower Ball Joint

https://youtu.be/bfLvtEnX9qk

 

One more tip, when disconnecting the outer tie rod and then the lower ball joint, flip the castle nut over and thread it back onto the stud. Just a few turns to get it flush. Then use the puller. Once you torque it with the ratchet, when it snaps free it will not go flying. Once broken free, remove the castle nut and proceed.

Don't forget to replace the bolts for the lower ball joint - don't reuse them.

Once done with your replacements, get an alignment.

 

Here is one more vid, his yoga approach to free the lower shock mount bolt

he does mention pepboys doing his coilover for 40 dollars. again, well worth it imo.

https://youtu.be/35V_l2Y8w_U?t=105

 

Thank you!

In terms of the bolts, are there really a difference in LH and RH bolts....?

EDIT, I'm dumb, its the same part number




Lol. A local shop wanted $170 to assemble my shocks.

 

The bolt should be (no difference in sides):

90119-10933
https://partsfactory.camelbacktoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-bolt-w-washer-9011910933

Your local dealer might have them in stock


EDIT: lol, just saw YOUR edit...

 

How can I like this a million more times?

 

Just a couple torque spec sheets I got from another member on here that shared them in a different post, pay it forward

Very handy to keep in the truck...for the longest time I would always have to search online for torque specs when I was in the middle of working on something and it was a pain trying to dig them up and find a good source for them.

 

Anyone who’s installed 4600s. Is this plastic retainer needed on the shock assembly? I can’t tell if it’s packaging to hold the dust boot on or if its actually supposed to be there. It has to be removed to place the spring perch. I didn’t see anything in the instructions saying what it was.

 

I'm not sure but I can't imagine that little plastic piece serves any kind of installation purpose...maybe someone else can confirm though.

 

I may have found the answer https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xyQEMxDG5L4

 

One more tip learned the HARD way. Locktite is your friend on the LBJ bolts. My 98 came loose and cost me a bolt broke off inside the steering knuckle. You don't want to buy one of those $480 for a new one.

 

Liberally spray the 4 bolts for the lower ball joints with PB Blaster. If possible, the night before. They can be a bitch to remove.

 

Thanks for the tips guys! I ended up using a spring compressor today without any issues. Front shocks are ready to be installed. New LBJ bolts come in tomorrow as well. Plan on installing everything on Sunday.