Icon RXT leaf-springs pack rebuild.

I got and installed my RXT pack over 2 years ago and at the time I decided not to install the leaf spacers that came with the pack. For about 18 months I had no problems but a few months ago they started to squeak and decided to rebuild them. I will post pictures and explain the mods and work involved.

As the pack was installed initially and used for 18 months. Notice no spacers in between the leaf springs. That caused the leaf springs to rub each other for most of the spring length and limit the flexibility of the spring. The spacers that came with the pack were kind of cheap and not cut equally with rough edges and uneven surfaces.



I decided to order custom made/cut leaf spacers to install in between the leaf springs. The spacers are from high quality brass ($$$) and cut to size. I needed to drill holes (10mm) in them to insert the center pin.






Now the installation. For safety front wheels chocked (on carpet to eliminate slippage). Truck jacked-up and beefy stands in position.




Before dropping the rear axle remember to disconnect the rear shocks not to over extend them and also

disconnect the parking brake bracket off the leaf springs and also frame and



don't forget the brake line holder and ABS bracket off the axle.


Now with the axle out of the way, remove the leaf packs (tight space, heavy) and take them away to work on them. Need some space to open and clean them up.

You can see the rust and friction rub locations on the springs now. Part is my fault since I did not installed the original plate spacers in between the leaf springs but they were too thin to make a difference.


Time to take them apart and inspect them. Use two good long C-clamps since they have a lot of spring in them and will jump if not held tight. Put the clamps on them, remove the center pin and slowly relax the C-clamps till all are loose.

Now you can see the rust and rubbing places on them.





Once the pack is opened, time to scrub and wash the rust off them. I used a Brillo pad and gas to clean them off. Now you can see the friction locations (shiny areas).

As you can see, the second leaf (with the loop at one end only) does not have a plastic pad at the end of the leaf as the other ones have. That caused a lot of friction between the 1st and 2nd leaf with a lot of rust and noise.

Time to fix the design problem. Will install a plastic pad there to separate the leaf springs and eliminate metal on metal friction. Measure the pad location on the leaf like on the other ones. Forget about scoring the location with a punch tool, will NOT even scratch it...but the Dremel tool with cutting dick will score it nice.

Now drilling the hole...no normal drill bit will be able to drill into hard spring steel BUT the Bosch masonry carbide tipped drill bit will do it with ease. Need constant pressure and oil and in one minute the hole is drilled.


Once the hole is drilled, a small grinding stone is needed to clean the edges off.


and new location pad installed. See the spacing between the leaf springs now.

Since the OEM center pin (bolt) was rusted and too short to reinstall with the added thickness of the spacer plates, time to make new center pins from 10mm bolts with hex head.




All buttoned together now.

Remember I said I didn't install the original leaf spacers first time? Found one and here is why


Both packs done. Cleaned, greased, new plastic pads, extra pad added, better leaf spacers. Time to put them back. My back is not happy...


After driving on the improved springs, the noise is gone and the feel is a bit better as in more and smoother flex.

 

I thoroughly enjoyed reading this from start to finish. Nice work!

 

Nice write up.

 

You shoulda hit me up man. I would have totally helped you muscle all that shit around. Good job none the less though

 

Also, I read those Ubolts are "one time use", no idea of it's true, but keep an eye on em for a lil while!

 

***
In two would be easier and faster as work can be done on both sides in the same time and handling the heavy springs is not as hard as in one. On the back, lifting the 65lb pack is a pain literally.

 

Did you initially install these with the 3° degree shim? I have minor vibes with mine on option 2. Was going to go with a carrier bearing drop to cure the vibes.. did you do both the shims and the carrier bearing drop?

 

Next time u got big stuff like that dont hesitate to hit me up i like workin on stuff

 

***
I had that in mind but from what I know if the threads are good (like new) and the bolts are not stretched out, the U-bolts can be reused. I inspected the threads and put a digital caliper on them to make sure they are NOT thinner (stretched out) on the shaft. All passed and reused them.

 

***
Shims were installed from the beginning. Only thing not installed were the OEM spacers.
Did you get the vibration AFTER you installed the RXT pack or was it there from the beginning with original leaf springs?
HEADS UP FOR VIBRATIONS
Many times vibrations (harmonic vibrations) are caused by the drive shaft (propeller shaft) that are out of round like:
- the shaft itself has a curve in it (thousand of inches)
- the shaft is not centered on the U-joint at installation
Those two can cause vibrations all the time, at certain speeds only, only after a lift is installed.
To check for vibrations in the shaft you need to:
- lift the truck in the back (wheels free off ground)
- mount a dial indicator on a magnetic arm at different locations on the shaft
- get somebody to rotate slowly the tire to rotate the drive shaft.
- watch the dial indicator needle move for deviation(s) if the shaft is not tru straight or not installed in center of the U-joint(s)
Mine was a installed bit off at the shaft/pinion U-joint. Had to loosen the 4 screws and readjust it.

 

my vibes were so bad I had to go back to option 1

 

After the lift I noticed them only at certain speeds.. and typically uphill. I've since rebuilt my driveline ( u joints and carrier bearing) and still have minor vibes;
I have a buddy who's a machinist. I'll ask him to check it out with his dial indicator, Thanks.

 

Good write up. My Icons now squeak too.

 

If the alignment of the drivelines all good, I'll probably go with the carrier bearing drop first, then try the leaf shims..

 

***
I have option 3 on mine from the start with no added weight in the back, not even the spare tire.

***
You know what to do now.

 

That brass just looks pretty in there too haha.

 

***
Chicks love it. When I roll over them...

 

Nice write up,
I have a set to install when I get my front coil overs.
My question is do you know what stage is closest to the stock rating? I really don't want to do this twice if I can help it. I'll also inspect them and see if they have added the shims and the one pad on the second leaf. I'd rather do what needs to be done before I install them.

 

***
Let us know.

 

Put me on the hit me up for mod days list! I’m always happy to work on stuff and usually have something to work on myself too.