Icon RXT install gone wild

Ok hoping to get some insight here. I have a 2005 Tacoma access cab. I recently put the Icon RXT stage 3 kit on the rear. My mistake is that I hired an alignment mechanic at a tire shop, who had like 3 teeth left, to do the install for me under the table. So I really don’t know the details, but I have to pick up the pieces. The bump stops do not align with the striker plates - maybe 2” off. The lift is way too high and has not settled back down to be level. I brought it back to the guy and complained, so he put in a block lift in the front. My front icon coils were already preloaded to the max recommended height. Also I have a 150lb front bumper as a constant dead load. I did not do the heavy duty option for the front or rear since I don’t tow or have a camper. Additionally, I have snapped the motor mounts and tooth guy welded it back together. He also wanted to remove a leaf in the rear to bring it down and then weld some metal bracket to replace the striker plate.

So my question would be - is it ok to do coilovers and block spacers?
Is it a common issue for the hydraulic bump stops to not align with the leafs?
Extra credit: what’s the best valve settings on compression and rebound for some hardcore dune blasting?

I appreciate any thoughts.

 

You can get rid of the spacer lift in the front and go with maxtrac or camburg spindle to get the height you want in the front and take out all the preload from the coilover.

When i installed my bumpstop it was mis-marked left and right from icon (just a little sticker on the back) not saying thats your issue but something to check.

 

Excellent info that makes perfect sense. You sir are a wizard and a champion.
Follow up question. I’m seeing some spindles say 2wd only and no sway bar.

Thoughts on sway bar? I took mine off.
Also can I just get longer CV axels and keep my 4wd? Or does a 4” lift mean no way to easily cheaply keep 4wd?

again I appreciate any help

 

Longer CV axels are for “long travel”. There are entire TW threads on long travel. There is no cheap and easy with a 4” Tacoma lift. Suggest staying under 3” lift on the front end. The standard travel CV’s don’t like more than 3”.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4x4-lift-spindles.201088/
is 2wd the only option for spindle lifts?

 

if the strike plates aren't aligning with the bump stops, make sure your leaf packs are not installed backwards

 

your best bet is to go to option 1 or maybe 2 for the leaf pack. option 3 is for trucks with a heavy rear.

Ditch the spacers up front, and undo most of pre load and maybe consider different springs for the front.

 

Rear ride height looks fine to me. Are you getting any vibes? If not, leave it as-is.

For the front, blocks will cause the upper ball joint to bind at full droop. I suggest removing the blocks and switch to 700lb springs to counteract the heavy bumper. Icon sells 700lb springs.

The hydraulic bumpstop kit includes strike pads with an outgrowth. That's where the bump head is supposed to hit:



You must get the bumpstop situation resolved before any "hardcore dune blasting".

 

Yep, this is almost certainly what happened.

 

Here’s a photo to show my bump stops.
What the truck is goin on here.

Thanks Oreocat I’ll look into it. If it’s true that mechanic is a fraud

 

First, your factory bump stops should be gone and replaced by a plate, that’s what the Icon bump stops should be compressing against if required.

Second, is your 2” of alignment difference front to back or side to side? If side to side it’s what I said above. If front to back, that’s where the leafs might be installed backwards.

 

This should help paint the picture. The kit comes with a plate that extends out past the leaf to catch the bump.

 

1. Remove the front spacer, get stiffer coil springs instead.

2. You need a U-bolt flip kit with striker plate. That will get your rear bumpstop situation in order.

3. Hire a mechanic with more teeth next time.

 

ok after pics you defiantly seem to be missing the strike plates. I would still check the to see if they leaf pack was installed backwards as this guy is clearly lost.

 

To answer your question Hook78,
The bump stop is 2" wide side to side - for sure needs the striker plate.
This guy clearly didn't even skim the instructions and threw away parts.

Toyota Gigolo
I am actually quite satisfied with the ride quality. I didn't realize how bad the stock leafs were. It's comparably smooth both on and offroad - and a noticeable increase in travel. My red flag was that the rear was visibly higher than the front, so I was rocking the rake. Before the new Icon RXT, the rear was visibly lower than the front, so I was rocking the squat look. My mechanic told me that it would settle after driving 100 mi. I don't have record measurements before/after, but I am neither level side to side or front to back. I'm more concerned with the front to back since it bothers me visually.

I do agree that this setup is dangerous - I wholeheartedly appreciate the knowledge, I was completely in the dark.
I'm a bit peeved that this guy thinks he's smarter than the engineers cranking up the preload and throwing in a spacer.

 

I like how he left the factory bump stops and installed the new ones

 

The new one isn't doing anything as of now, so it's a good thing he did.

 

Leaf pack is installed in the correct orientation, as evident by the two retainer clips. (Icon RXT has only one retainer clip aft of the axle, pointing down.)

@calc_surfer your front leaf bolt has a loose nut. Make sure you check the driver's side as well. The nut likes to loosen on its own (happened to me on the trail).

 

This is pretty bad. Take that spacer out from the front ASAP. Right now, the shock would bottom out before hitting the bump stop, bending or breaking it from even a pothole hit.

After that, look at the fins of the inner CV axle boots, if they touch at ride height, they will rub thru in a hurry. Less preload is the answer, or a drop bracket lift if you must ride high on 4WD.

The rear is another shit show, so I’ll only say this: individual leaves can be removed from the pack to reduce lift. Best to take it to someone more competent; the bar is low.

 

This is a shit show lol remove the factory bumpstop, you have hydro bumps so don’t need those factory ones anymore.

what option is the leaf pack in? If it’s option 3 with no weight that’s why it sits so high. You should be riding on option 1 if you have no weight. At this point if you don’t know what you’re doing just take it to an off-road shop