I was wrong....10 ply vs 6ply. The whole truth...but the plot thickens on page 5....

From tirerack.com website

 

F?! I feel inferior.

 

I've been rolling on P265/75R16 Hankook ATMs without a single issue.

From what I gather a C rated tire is often inferior in construction compared to a P-metric.

 

FWIW, like smitty I've also done quite a bit of AZ and UT type rocky road driving with no issues with the stock tires.

 

pics or it didn't happen

 

The stock tires have been great for me. Totally solid after about 4000kM off-road, and 12,000km total. Lots of rough and rocky tracks in there too. I am not sure why the experience with the Goodyear’s is so varied, but no issues, punctures, blow-outs or other complaints for me so far. At this point I’ll probably buy them again, but maybe go up one size.

 

Maybe Goodyear needs to make a duratrac 2.0 with Kevlar.

 

But cup size depends on bust size, so a 32C is really about the same as a 30D. Cup size is only really relative within the same bust size. As long as it’s a handful I don’t worry about the details though

 

Snow was the entire reason I got them. I didn’t want to switch tires for the winter in Michigan. Oh ya, and they look badass

Now I live in SoCal, so just going to run them till they wear out and switch them out for something that balances better and makes a little less noise (at 20k miles they are starting to get noisy, but still look good tread wise).

 

I’m a “details man”, myself.

 

I'm simply a boob man....i love them all.

 

Yeih right! I punctured one playing in soft mud!
And as u see in the picture the caked mud on the tire is what was giving me some traction not the stupid tire! I'm at 45k and they are right at 3/32 just ordered some wildpeaks

 

I hope you are being sarcastic.
I had eleven punctures in 17K miles with the stock Goodyear Kevlars. I tossed them in the trash with a little more than 50% tread remaining.

 

I'm not sure if it's the 10-ply magic working it's wonders or just how things work, but I'm surrounded by construction in all directions, and have picked up 4 nails/screws/bolts/shrapnel in my tires. Not only was I able to drive around not noticing (until I saw it) but I actually pulled the offending object out to see if it went all the way through, and when the tire started hissing at me after pulling it out, I shoved it back in and kept driving (sometimes more than a day) until I could get a patch.

If that's the power of 10 ply...I'm sold.

 

Been running C for 2 years. ~30 off road trails, and 40k miles on KO2s. Never a single issue. At this point I’d buy the same time again, no question. Bad luck maybe?

 

Some interesting info regarding ply rating vs actual plies:

“Today's load range/ply ratings do not count the actual number of body ply layers used to make up the tire's internal structure, but indicate an equivalent strength compared to early bias ply tires. Most radial passenger tires have one or two body plies, and light truck tires, even those with heavy-duty ratings (10-, 12- or 14-ply rated), actually have only two or three fabric plies, or one steel body ply.”

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=55

 

I read that same article before deciding on tires and it threw me for a loop. Ultimate, 10 vs 6 wasn't a deciding factor in which tire to buy, it just so happened the ones I settle on were 10 ply

There's a significant weight difference in 6 vs 10 as well as a jump in load range. So I don't know what all there's more of in there since technology evolves, but there's more of something.

In the end, I'm not much of an off-roader, but I have horrible luck with nails. After about 10k miles with less than 10% being off road...I'll give the Federal Couragia MT a huge thumbs up.

 

Just because they don't have that many plies does not mean one is not stronger than the other. They even call it "ply rating" now, not "number of plies". Don't go thinking that a heavier duty E rated tire is not stronger than a C or P rated, just because they have the same number of plies.

Similar to things like fabric design in clothing, tents, etc., a single layer may be thin to save weight and provide more flexibility, but at the cost of abrasion and perforation resistance.

 

Yes, I think the info I included states that somewhat clearly. I’d like to find the criteria the actual ‘ply rating’ is based on, if it is more than simply the amount of axle weight it can safely handle.

 

I always run E rated tires on a truck...