Hub Centric Rings and Lugs for New Aftermarket Wheels

I just ordered these wheels...
https://www.bbwheelsonline.com/kmc-...x5-5-6x139-7-satin-black-0mm-km30168060700/##
Which have a 108mm hub bore and I know that I should get hub centric rings for them, but as I was looking, I found some plastic ones from Gorilla Automotive that have mostly positive reviews, but a few very negative ones that scare me away from the plastic. I decided to turn to you guys for ur thoughts on plastic vs aluminum hub centric rings, and if a 108-106mm aluminum ring would be better than the plastic ones despite the .1mm difference from the hub size of 106.1mm

Also, I am lost when it comes to getting lug nuts. I know I'm gonna need new lugnuts for the aftermarket wheels, but I have no idea what style or size I need. I have 2011 trd sport if that helps.

Please let me know if you have any input on either subject

 

I'd skip on the hub rings and just get get a lug-centric balance.

 

What is that? And everything I've read so far has pointed me away from going lug-centric. I keep hearing "the studs are not meant to support the entire weight of the car, make sure you go hub centric"

 

If i was you i would try and return those wheels and get some other ones that are hubcentric. I'm not sure if the lugs can handle the weight or not, but its better to err on the side of caution IMO

 

I'm sticking with the aftermarket wheels. The only wheels that are hub centric for the tacoma are wheels from toyota, unless someone has found other wheels with a 106.1mm hub bore

 

A wheel is either hub centric or lug centric...
Just because you have a 106 bore or rings that make it 106, does not make it hub centric.

If the bolt circle is not coincidental to the hub circle, you can run into interference at the lug seats.

There is no load on the hub from a hub centric wheel; that is a myth.

 

Could you explain to me what a lug centric balance is and how it would erase the need for the hub centric ring? And is it true that a hub centric ring does nothing but center the wheel while you torque down the lugs?

 

Hubcentric balance centers at the hub circle.
Lugcentric centers at the bolt circle.
Sometimes the two do not coincide.
This is where lug seat interference can occur.
It can also make balancing difficult, if not impossible, as the majority of shops perform a hubcentric balance.

The wheels you have chosen have tapered lug seats; it is lugcentric.

Here's a link explaining the aforementioned "myth" and the interference issues I mentioned.
https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s11668-017-0297-0

 

Ok I think I understand now. I don't even need the hubcentric rings because the lugcentric wheel with the tapered lugnuts will center themselves. Now is it a guarantee that when I torque down the lugnuts that the wheel will be perfectly centered or would it be a better idea to just take it into the shop and have them do it? Also, does that mean the studs are holding the entire weight of the car?

 

Read the link...
It'll explain your questions and then some.

 

Maaan that's a lot of reading thought I could get away without it, but you're right I probably should. Thanks for your help and patience!

 

You can probably skim over the math stuff and still get the meat and bones.

 

Plenty of wheels out there with a 106.1 bore. I know I have some. Two. Plenty of threads about how these trucks are notorious for having vibration issue with non hub centric wheels. Not that they all do. But I’d can be an issue.

 

Hub rings just help you mount a wheel on the lugs - nothing more - if you don’t understand clamping force just put down the wrench and slowly back away from the garage.