How-To: Steering Rack Bushing Replacement on a 1st Gen Tacoma

Step-by-Step Steering Rack Bushing Replacement on a 1st Gen Tacoma (or 3rd Gen 4Runner)

Over time, rubber bushings wear out and need to be replaced. This happened for me recently when I Replaced All the Bushings on my Tacoma, and I figured that others could benefit from a quick little guide that shows the entire process and lists all the necessary parts for replacing the bushings in the steering rack.

Parts
One thing to be aware of when replacing the steering rack bushings is that 1st gen Tacomas have two different bushing configurations depending on the model year - with the change happening around the 2000 model. Earlier trucks - it seems - use a smaller diameter bolt at the center location to secure the actual rack (which is the same across all years) to the frame, while later years use a larger diameter bolt. Luckily, the good folks at Energy Suspension have included sleeves for both in this kit, as long as you purchase the kit for the '95-00 model years, regardless of the actual year of your 1st gen Tacoma.

• Energy Suspension 8.10101G Steering Rack Bushing (Black)
• Energy Suspension 8.10101R Steering Rack Bushing (Red)

Note: Energy Suspension also has a separate kit for the '01-04 model years (8.10103 black | red). This kit is identical to the '95-00 kit but contains only the sleeve for the larger diameter bolt. Personally, I think it's a better idea to buy the '95-00 kit regardless, to give yourself the flexibility.

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Tools
The tools for this job are relatively simple.

• OTC 6295 Front End Service Set - the smaller pitman arm puller is used to disconnect the OTRE when removing the steering rack.
• OTC 7249 Ball Joint (and U-Joint) Service Kit - used to press the bushings out of the steering rack.
• Misc sockets (I recommend this set from Williams, a Snap-On brand)
  • 12mm socket - sway bar mount, steering rack removal.
  • 14mm socket - sway bar end link removal.
  • 19mm socket - steering rack removal.
  • 21mm socket - to remove lug nuts.
  • 22mm socket - OTRE castle nut removal, steering rack.
  • Ratchet, Extensions, as necessary.
• Breaker Bar
• Torque Wrench.
• Quick drying solvent cleaner (brake cleaner, etc.)
• Grease to lubricate the new bushings.

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Doing the Job

With the parts and tools in hand, it's time to get started. For the step-by-step process (with pics), keep going at:

Step-by-Step Steering Rack Bushing Replacement on a 1st Gen Tacoma (or 3rd Gen 4Runner) – ADVENTURETACO

 

Steering Bushing Replacement:
http://parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/kristacoma/rackbushings/rackbushings.htm
http://www.keystonekrawlers.com/Mods/Toyota/SteerBushing/TacomaSteeringBush.htm
http://www.lieblweb.com/steeringbush.html
http://forum.ih8mud.com/95-gen-toyota-trucks/412826-steering-rack-bushing-replacement.html
http://www.yotatech.com/f2/steering-rack-bushing-replacement-169316/

 

My '96 used the larger sleeve. I looked at the smaller sleeve and the bolt wouldn't go through. I compared the sleeve size with the original bushing and it was the larger of the two.

 

Ran into a MAJOR problem upon starting this job today. Originally, I ordered the

$32 Energy Suspension 8.10103G Rack and Pinion Bushing Set for 4WD

Energy Suspension 8.10103G kit thinking that would work for my 2000 Tacoma. Upon reading this how-to, I decide to go ahead and order the 8.10101G kit (in the event my truck has the smaller bolt diameter).

Wonderful Amazon decided to send me a second 8.10103G kit, but I did read quite a few people do the job without a problem on the same year of truck. Long story short, I have all of the bushing pressed out, but now I’m in a bind because I found out that I have the smaller bolt, but not the correct sized bushing.

Has anyone else run into this same issue and found a workaround without waiting days for Energy Suspension to come through with the right sized bushing? I really appreciate anyone’s input to help get my truck back together this weekend (I’m working on having an option so it’s not my daily driver, but alas, that hasn’t happened just yet).

 

Does your rack have 2 bushing locations or 3? Mine has only 2 and I'm having trouble myself.

 

I have the rwd with the two mounts....
to make the vertical one I had to burn the center sleeve out of the original and reunse...
and then had to shave down the thickness of the two halfs to make the driver side fit...

Same on the 'D' bushing....had to take about half an inch out of its circumference so to cinch down without buckling.

 

I have a 4wd that has the horizontal driver’s side mount, the vertical mount (the one I’m having trouble with the bushing for), and the retainer on the passenger’s side held on by the bolt and nut.

I ended up going to O’Reillys tonight and found a Dorman kit (PN 905-401) that is a polyurethane kit with two different ID’ed sleeves for the vertical mount. Turns out, the bolt in my rack doesn’t fit either (too loose on the thin walled sleeve, and doesn’t fit through the smaller ID). I’m putting all of the pieces together here in my head, and believe that Big O’ Tires is to blame here as they replaced the entire rack a couple of years ago. This was before I really started wrenching on my truck, and they threw a new aftermarket rack on there (after the reman they put on blew a hole in it not even a day after that had replaced it). My theory is that they replaced all of the factory hardware upon installation of the aftermarket rack, which would explain why even the Dorman kit (with the two variations of sleeve bushing inserts) doesn’t fit the bolt I have.

Definitely unfortunate as it delayed me a day in the reassembly, and even with extensive research heading into the project I wasn’t able to predict this being the outcome. I think my solution for tomorrow will be to head to a parts store in the morning to get the correct lengthened 1/2” bolt I need and a nut for that center mount. All I need is one that will fit the sleeve that Energy Suspension sent me, and I should be good to torque everything back down and wrap this project up!

To that end, would anyone have any recommendations for places they like to get Grade 8 or Class 10.9 hardware for your trucks? The bolt that came off is half threaded and is smooth shanked the rest of the way. If my theory holds that Big O’ just replaced they hardware on me, than I suppose I really don’t have to find anything that matches, just need to find something that will fit and do the job!

 

https://www.tacomascrew.com/ generally has everything, but not sure where you're located; they are PNW only as far as I know. Could always install something to "get by" and then order online from them, I guess.

 

Belmetric for US wide

 

Do you know what the difference is between BRK74350 and 905-401? I think 905-401 is urethane vs rubber, but I have read mixed reviews.

 

I think what you said is the difference. I went with the polyurethane kit over rubber for the durability factor. So far so good on the new bushings!

 

Nice!!! Next job I have to do on my tacoma