How to reset ECU by removing fuse?

I cleaned my MAF last night to get rid of a pesky engine code. I've read that I should be able to just unplug the ECU fuse under the steering wheel for 5 minutes, plug in back in, run the truck for another 5 minutes and it should reset the ECU.

I've tried this but the check engine light was still on. What am I doing wrong? Should I unplug the fuse with the ignition turned to the on position?


I ended up clearing the code with a scanner and the light has not come back on but would still like to know...

 

On my other cars I just discounted the negative battery thermal for 5-10 minutes. These days you can but a scan tool for under $25, nice to have.

 

An easy way to 'reset' is to take the positive lead off the battery for about 5-10 minutes. It may NOT reset a code tho.

 

Disconnecting the battery worked on OBDI - the pre-95 cars where the code could be read by counting blinks of the bulb connected to the port. Post-95 cars (including all Tacomas) have OBDII where the scan tool (or adapter for PC or tablet/phone) is required to read and reset the code.

 

The fuse you're looking for is the EFI fuse. You can pull that one for 30 seconds and it should reset any DTCs. What was the DTC you had or have?

 

Autozone loans scanners for free...

Or yes they're cheap and everyone should have one.

 

I'm with the others here on disconnecting the battery.

If it's a smog code it'll reset them.

If it's a diagnostic code... you don't want to drive with it lit up. (Typically)

 

Thanks everyone, I ended up disconnecting the battery in the end . I tried taking out the fuse marked "ECU-IG" overnight and it had no effect. Maybe I should have taken out the one marked "ECU-B" as well....

 

EFI fuse under the hood. But whatev. I already mentioned it previously in your thread. Maybe you missed it.

 

oh dear whoops. Yes you mentioned it but being such a dimwit I didn't realise it was the fusebox under the hood

 

Lol, no worries. I see I didn't mention it was under the hood. It's what I use when I need to reset it and don't have my scanner on hand. Obviously the battery disconnect works also.

 

Pulling the EFI fuse won't clear the radio presets and clock like disconnecting the battery. If you have a fancy new radio with a bunch of settings it can be a pain to set back up.

 

this^

I have to reset my radio EQ every time the battery is disconnected (rarely) but I can never get it to sound the same

 

I got a Pioneer for my Silverado and it actually has the option to save the settings. Saves having to set it all back up again even after an extended time without power. Great little “all digital media” radio. No cd, has usb, Bluetooth, Bluetooth audio, phone connect with external microphone. Works great. Every once in a while, it gets a big up it’s ass and needs to be completely unplugged from the back for a couple minutes. Plug it back in, works fine.

 

Tried this (pulled EFI-MAIN 20A & EFI 10A) with everything off but battery connected, no luck resetting what I believe to be a O2 sensor code I got after borrowing the A/F HTR fuse for troubleshooting another system. (Check Engine & TRAC OFF lights illuminated) Should I also use the "ST" fuse to short somewhere to clear any memory or something? Or does this procedure require per being on to the ECU via key in second position?

I should add that this is a 2nd gen (2015) but didn't want to start a thread when this one is very relevant.

Thanks for any help.

 

Sorry it took so long to get back to ya man. I would have thought that fuse would reset the DTCs even in the newer Tacomas. Either way, there is enough difference between the first and second gen tacos that having a thread for it in the 2nd gen section wouldn't be a bad idea.
Hopefully you've got this squared away or at least have a plan of attack to address it. If not, don't hesitate to chime back in and I wouldn't mind trying to hunt some info down for the second gen scenario.

 

No prob. I did do a brief search of the 2nd gen forum only but got no good results. I just ended up pulling the battery cable. I wanted to reroute it anyway, so it was a good reason to do both. Turns out on the 2015 with the fancy stereo/info system that it must have some solid state memory or a backup battery because it did not clear the radio station presets or any of the settings/bluetooth setup data. So win/win for me. Thanks for the reply, though.