How to mount X-Bull traction boards on OEM roof rack

So I searched for months trying to find this answer and couldn't, so hopefully this is a new topic (cue someone linking me to the post from 50 million years ago). For those of us who try to save some cash for a bunch of other upgrades, and bought some X-Bulls and we installed the OEM roof rack and want to put the X-Bulls on the roof when our bed is full of gear and other stuff and realized there's just no native solution to this because X-Bulls are awkward AF...This tutorial is for you.

The goal is to mount the X-Bulls on the roof, out of the way of the bed so we can look cool like all the Prinsu guys. I also wanted to be able to fit other things on the OEM roof rack at the same time. Also wanted to save money and minimize fuss and be able to easily remove them when daily driving and put them away either in the bed or the garage so I could put the OEM roof rack in mohawk mode.

The solution was to create a custom DIY mounting system that is modular and be used for other things.

Bonus: This system is also compatible with ARB universal awning bracket mounted on the OEM roof rack (according to the math, that is my next purchase, thus the money savings).

Here's what that looks like in a vertical and flat orientation.




So everything here is in 5/16-inch to make buying and replacing parts easy and compatible and so I only ever have to use one wrench to do all the work. It also means it's compatible with 8mm metric holes on any metric parts or accessories you need to attach (Like the ARB universal mount and a lot of other stuff).

The X-Bulls are exactly the length of the inner edges of the OEM roof rack rails, which is just beautiful for this application (that's about 40-inches between the sets of outer, larger holes). Here's a graphic of the X-Bull's dimensions in metric.



The horizontal orientation is much easier. So we'll start with that.

So here's what you need for the horizontal configuration (I got everything at Ace Hardware because they let you take stuff out to the parking lot to try it out and couldn't find much online, but choose your own adventure):

• 4x: 5/16" x 2 1/2" wide x 4 3/16" long U-bolts. This comes with two hex nuts and the cross plate (if you plan to mount an ARB, then you need six of these U-bolts). You can find longer U-bolts BUT the threads need to go down this far, otherwise it won't work. I tried a lot, so maybe stick with these dimensions because it's perfect for the OEM wing shaped rails.
• 4x: 5/16" wing nuts
• 8x: 5/16" heat shrink for electrical conduit (I used red, maybe I should've used black)
• 1x: Pad of rubber sheet packing (also used red, in the plumbing section)

It's pretty easy to see based on the photo, but basically you're going to take the U-bolt apart, slide two heat sink sleeves over, leaving the threads exposed. Melt them with a heat gun or lighter (heat gun will look better). This is to protect the powder coating on your rack. Then cut out and glue a piece of rubber padding to underside of the flat bar to also protect the powder coating. Now no exposed metal is scratching up the rails, which lets you slide them into position with confidence.

Line them up however you want so that the X-bulls edge holes fit over the bolt and tighten the U-bolts down all the way to your bars with a cute little crescent wrench. If you got these U-bolts then they will be a perfect fit and the heat sink and rubber padding will make them super snug and really hard/impossible to move. Make sure you don't tighten on the plastic part of the rack or that'll break.

Put the X-bulls on top. Screw the wing nut on. At first it will look like the wing nuts won't fit, but they will, it's plastic, it's flexible, just get it going and guide them on and then you can really tighten them down and they will even seat between the treads and lock in place.

Done.

If you want to drill holes in a few of these U-bolts and luggage lock them, I've seen that and it looks fine although I'm not sure those locks are any good.

If you're happy with the flat mount then you are done. If you're getting an ARB universal mount, just do this six times and it should work the same (you'll need some extra washers and nuts to bolt it on but that's easy enough to add).

BUT if you want the vertical mount, then read on. \/

It's more parts and a bit more complicated and mounting it is a bit more fuss. But it has its benefits.

The benefit for me was that we use a soft cargo bag on camping trips to store all of our sleeping bags, pillows, chairs, blankets, coats, etc. and I still wanted to be able to mount the traction boards on the roof (I guess I forgot to get a picture of that, but it fits great together). Mount the boards first because that'll change the shape of the cargo bag and they will kind of hold each other in place.






If you want a vertical configuration you need all the above list and instructions PLUS:

• 24x: 5/16" x 3/8" (3/8" diameter or so, that part matters less) washers
• 8x: 5/16" hex nuts
• 4x: 5/16" nylon locking nuts
• 2x: Large L-brackets that either have pre-drilled holes 10cm apart on the long end or enough space for you drill them on the long end yourself. The short end matters less, you can see mine isn't not long at all. (OK so I happened to have two L-bracket pieces leftover from an IKEA couch that I shit you not were perfectly fitted to this application and it is actually what inspired this whole design. I'm assuming 10cm hole spacing must be a common metric system)
• 4x: 5/16" x 6" long threaded rod (you could probably get away with shorter but it helps if you need the flexibility)
• 4x: 5/16" acorn nut
• 4x: Universal handles with hole for 5/16" nut (I believe that's 3/8" hole but check it in the store because these things are pain in the ass and they look the same but don't fit right ever. Super glue is your friend)
• Hack saw

OK, so for this, install the U-bolts with an additional washer between the flat plate and the nut that comes with the U-bolt to add additional rigidness to the design because it tightens the plate that much more. Put another washer on top of the included nut to create a flat spot for the L-bracket to sit on (especially if the bracket hole is a little bigger, like with the ARB). Install the L-bracket with another washer and finally tighten it down with the last nut (see picture for layer cake visual).

Your U-bolt will be too long for the X-Bulls to fit. So hack saw the bolt down to the nut (DO NOT USE BOLT CUTTERS), using proper technique to not damage threads, crush bolt, etc. otherwise you will never get those bolts off. I hacked sawed them while on the truck for perfect fit (DO NOT CUT UP YOUR TRUCK!). You will now have a long-side to all of your U-bolts for flat config and a short side for vertical config. They are now J-bolts.

Build the L-bracket mount using the acorn nut on one side of the threaded rods, washers on either side of the bracket and the locking nut to make the mounting rod permanent.

Glue the nuts into the star handles with locktite or something like it.

Slide your X-Bulls onto the rods. Spin spin spin spin spin spiiiiiiiiin the handles forever and ever until your traction boards are attached. Done. There are ways to lock this down too if you want.

Go for a joy ride. These suckers won't go anywhere. I drove these 1,000 miles in one weekend like this and they didn't move a centimeter.

Note: Measure your garage door opening before pulling out so you don't destroy everything. I think mine is like...touching the weather stripping on the garage on the way out...Or maybe I mount them in the driveway...yah that's probably it. Anyway, don't break your house or your truck!

Anyway, I'll comment when I finish mounting these in the garage (hint: on the wall)

 

Great guide!

 

My X-Bulls are on their way! I'm hoping to do this method with them. Thanks for the awesome write up!

 

I see the hardware vibrating off. Add a hitch pin type pin just in case.

 

I ended up replacing the star handles with wing nuts (because I lost the handles lol). So the pressure between the traction boards and wing nuts holds them in place. The wings get stuck between the treads. The other hardware stays in place because now I'm using a power drill instead of a wrench....also bends that plate sometimes. It's a janky system but I enjoy it lol. But yes you could definitely drill a hole and use a cotter pin too.

 

This has held up great so far. Been a 1,000+ miles through New England and back and hasn’t rattled loose yet. The wing nuts really do lock in place with the xbull treads.

I had to go side by side to fit under my ski box. A little extra work to remove them if I need, but it fills the wasted space perfectly.

 

OMG you used my idea! This is so coooooool! I love using them flat like that too.