How To: Fan Installation in Camper Shell

All,

I used a number of forums in trying to plan a project on my 2002 Tacoma's camper shell (A.R.E.), so I thought return the favors with an update on the project, which turned out really well. I'll note I'm the least handy individual around, so anyone can get this done.

PROBLEM: we camp a lot out of the back of the truck. two people plus one chubby dog equals a LOT of condensation buildup. the camper shell carpeting helps a whole lot, but in the winter we've had a coating of frozen condensation on everything exposed, and in the summer it can be a pretty sweaty affair, even here in Oregon. yes we have window sliders, but with the blackout curtains and the bug screens, it still gets bad. i'd also like to have a conditioned space for my dog when we're out boating/biking, but i don't feel comfortable with that just yet.

I decided to install a fan in the roof, contrary to some people's recommendations. RV's do it all day without leaking issues, so I reasoned it can be done without issue. We went with the Fan-Tastic Vent 2250, a classic model without the bells and whistles I don't need. It's already overkill for the size of the camper, it doesn't draw that much power (roughly one amp on low, three amps on high), and I got a low profile version at Vintage Trailer Supply so my roof rack bars stand over it no problem.

Top dead center of the camper would be the ideal placement for the fan for maximal heat removal, but I placed it towards the rear of the camper shell, so it's not directly overhead when we're sleeping. It's below my roof rack but opens about four inches without hitting it, more than enough for my space and purposes.





You get all kinds of recommendations for how to cut into your camper, and this was nerve wracking given how much they cost. I found the best way was to measure out placement with a homemade cardboard template, then make a plunge circular saw cut on each side before jig sawing out the rest (make sure to use a saw blade with very fine teeth--the fiberglass is pretty brittle). As long as it doesn't jump on you, the circular saw will give you a cleaner start with the power, especially since the camper has multiples layers to cut through, as seen in the photo below:



After cutting the square out, next cut/rip out the cardboard filler all around the edges and drive in some 3/4" plywood strips, ideally 2-3" wide. Sorry I don't have a photo. You'll need these for the mounting screws to bite into. Make sure the corners have the wood!

Next I lined the perimeter in butyl rubber tape (Amazon), inserted the fan into the cutout and drilled pilot holes in each hole. NOTE: you do NOT want the screws to bite into the fiberglass, they should go through the fiberglass and bite the furring strips, so make the holes through the fiberglass layer big enough. Then drill each screw down till they're flush and cut off any butyl that's been squeezed out. I was worried that the camper roof was slightly curved and even looked for some kind of leveling bracket to offset this, but in the end I just drilled the sides tightly and the plastic fan frame conformed to the camper well enough.

At this point, I tested the wires with a 12V battery to make sure all was copacetic. NOTE: The fan setting has set to be forward or backward and the lid has to be open for it to work. Especially if you're a few beers deep, not realizing this will leave you crestfallen and lame. DAMHIK.

Next seal the edges with Lap Sealant (amazon). Gum it up over all the outer edges of the fan's frame and dollop the screw holes as well. You can be pretty liberal with the sealant as it self-levels and is a critical component of a waterproof installation. It'll take 30 days before it's really cured, but it's waterproof after a day iirc.



Now the wiring, which I'll not really get into because your situation is probably different than mine. I cut the camper carpet liner, ran the wire out to the side along the bed rail, and all the way to the starter battery. Then contact cemented the liner back over the wire. The fan has a built in 4A fuse and doesn't draw all that much power (low setting is fine for our purposes), but be careful about hard wiring it to your starter battery without a backup plan for a dead battery in the morning. I'll probably build an auxiliary battery system soon enough with a Fuze Block for various accessories, but until then, this is functional. It makes sleeping in the back SO much more comfortable, and now my girlfriend is much more stoked about the idea.

After the lap sealant cured, I spraypainted it the color of the camper (rockauto) and it blends in pretty well! Hope this helps someone else. Really the project isn't that hard and for me it was worth the trouble and expense (roughly $200). Happy adventuring!!





S.MorgasGeorge

 

Awesome! I wish they’d offer a vent from the factory. I’d never have guys enough to cut into a new top cap! Great job

 

Nice work! I installed a few of these in my cargo trailer camper conversion. It's quite easy and leaks really aren't an issue when the vents are installed correctly. I also use the vent covers that allow you keep your vent open and fan on even when it's raining.

I haven't brought myself to take the plunge and cut up my canopy just yet. Does it keep your canopy pretty cool? I've got dogs too and 75 degrees outside is pretty much my limit for leaving them in there.

 

Great job with the install!

How loud is the fan when on the low/high setting? Any video perhaps?
Thanks!

 

I have been looking for someone who has done this!! My gf and I have slept in my Snugtop a couple times, ran into the same issues of frozen condensation during winter and overheating/sweating jsut about any other time of year. I have a couple of rechargeable fans (about 4" diameter each) and those help to move air around but don't do a whole lot for cooling. This is awesome though, I just might look into it. Well done!