How to change the water pump

I was at the dealership to get my New Hampshire inspection sticker. The truck passed, but they did notice that the coolant was low. They looked into it further and found the water pump was leaking. The part is 250+, and for them to replace it was 700 with the part included. Since I am currently looking for a new job, I decided I probably have time to do it myself. It is a 2009 taco with the v6 and 87000 miles on it. The serpentine belt has been replaced once already.

So I'm looking for a how-to or a write up for some inspiration. I have just hand tools, although that does include a torque wrench and the knowledge to use it. What I'm not good with is stuck or broken bolts. My neighbor is a mechanic and may be willing to help me if I become stuck. I do my own oil changes, diff oils, transfer case oil, and spark plugs, filters..

So am I crazy to try this on my own? If not, is there a write up to follow?

Thank you for any and all help.

 

I found the write up. Still a little worried about doing this myself.

 

It's not that bad - here are a couple of tips though:

1) pre-soak the bolts with Kroil, PB Blaster or similar penetrating lube before you work. Spray cold and run the engine (heat cycle) to help the oil penetrate before you start work (let it cool down first, of course). Use a 6-point socket if possible.

2) Once you remove the fan and shroud, tape a piece of cardboard over the radiator fins to protect both it and your hands while you work. Don't skip this step.

3) As the writeup indicates, loosen and re-torque the bolts in a star pattern. Trace a rough outline of the water pump on a piece of cardboard and use it to keep the bolts ordered as you remove them - there are probably more than one length.

If you can change spark plugs you can change a water pump.

 

Thanks TaterHarry. I just the biggest thing I have done on my own with this truck to date.

I have read the entire write up. Apparently there is a TSB that says to just watch it for a while, and it may seal itself up. So for now the dealer topped off the coolant. I have some real Toyota red coolant, and will give it a month. If it does seal itself up then I think a coolant change is in order. If it is still leaking, then I will change the pump and the coolant. The only downside to this plan is in 1 month it will be much colder outside.

It's worth noting that the Asian pump from rock auto is a lot cheaper than dealer.

 

you are right saying its gonna be much colder outside. if it was me id just get it done as soon as you can and relax all winter

 

its like a wrote the post! exactly how i go about it, especially using cardboard to hold the bolts. Overall its not hard OP, grab a chiltons and print out the posts on this site

 

Thanks everyone.

I have the manual from the auto parts store. I think you are right about the weather, I might just Get it done. I also talked to the neighbor mechanic and he will help me out.

So in addition to the water pump, I should change the belt, the coolant, and it looks like the thermostat? Anything else worth changing out while I have it apart? Radiator hoses maybe?

 

I would vote for changing all those things you mentioned. For just a few bucks more while it's already apart you'll kick yourself if one of them fails later. You're gonna do fine op, welcome to TW.

 

Might as well change that crankshaft seal too while everything is out of the way, my mechanic didn't charge me anything extra for doing that when he changed my water pump.

 

NO, NO, NO! I STRONGLY DISAGREE! OP DO NOT DO THIS!

Removing and reinstalling the crank pulley is a serious PITA and is not required to pull the water pump. If it isn't weeping oil past the seal, don't touch it!

Nor is it required to pull the water pump to access the crank seal.

This is bad advice IMO.

 

Agree with Harry, would not touch the crank seal unless it is leaking. A water pump is not a bad job, and the bolts will not break unless they were over tightened when it was installed. I would find out the torque spec on the bolts and tighten accordingly. Use a putty knife and get the surface clean before installing the new one.

 

This. If it's not leaking, leave it alone. I don't care what car it is, taking off a crankshaft pulley without at least a 500ft lb torque wrench is a pain.

 

Thanks everyone.

So I'll add radiator hoses to the list. I think I'll leave the crank seal alone. If the crank seal was leaking, I would replace it, as well as any other oil seal as well, because not only is oil getting out, dirt it getting in.

So far when I left the dealership the coolant level was perfect. After driving around it was high. I'll check it in the morning when the engine is cold.

 

My bad then... my mechanic made it sound like a ten minute job while he was changing the water pump.

 

Maybe add a radiator to the list, as well

 

Well so far it hasn't leaked even a drop of fluid. I thought it might be because I just drive around town. But over the weekend I drove up into Maine, 2+ hour trip each way. I just checked and the coolant level is fine. I don't think the dealer is lying to me, but I hate repairing things that are not broken. Is there a better way to check for a leak?

 

Just do a visual on the water pump. If you're using the Toyota pink coolant, it's easy to spot the leak with that coolant.

 

Just wanted to verify the alternator and ac compressor does not have to come off to do this. FSM shows them taken off. But I hear I may not have to. Planning for the 4runner this weekend. Same engine. 2007 V6 1GRFE. Also thanks to @Harry for post #3.

Dealer said it's a 3.5 hour job. Estimate for labor was $575 excl tax and shop fees. I have the parts.

 

Some people may see it as overkill, but if I change a water pump, especially one that's been in the engine a long time, I will also replace all of the bolts with OEM.
Get the OEM part number off of one of many online Toyota parts sellers and shop around. A lot of times, the following site has all kinds of OEM bolts/push pins/etc.

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com

 

Correct, ac and alt can stay on.
FWIW I did mine in a parking lot by myself in a day, definitely helps having someone to help with reinstalling the serpentine. Other than that pretty straightforward if you follow a Haynes manual.