How tight are the clamp bolts on the camper shell suppose to be

I was trying to figure out what was the correct tightness on the leer camper bolts that go through the fiberglass and into the clamp in the track, dont want the fibreglass to crack, i choked up on a 3/8 ratchet and tightened it with my fingers till it was tight but still seems like it was putting alot of pressure on the fibre glass, how did you all do yours.

 

Until the aluminum clamps start to bend I have found is a good indicator.

Both my taco with metal bed side caps, and superduty with plastic bedside caps have had the shell move despite the clamps being tight as shit. Drilled and used bolts on the taco, quit wheeling the superduty.

 

I think I have a similar style to yours. It's a SnugTop with no big C-clamps, just portions of the fiberglass that a bolt goes through and into 6 little clips that hook onto the factory bed rails. The bolts are not tight at all, per Campways who installed my shell. Basically once I see that fiberglass moving I go a little bit more and stop. I forget the torque spec they gave me but it was surprisingly low. I even think mine are tighter than they specify.

 

I don't use a torque wrench, but pretty darn tight. It is a good idea to check them every month or so either. They will vibrate loose.

 

Guys I think you're talking about a different style shell than OP has. What both of you are describing will crack the fiberglass on these kinds of shells.

 

Can you make a 'washer' of sorts to distribute the load on the fiberglass? Like a 4-6" piece of metal the width of the lip? That should allow tighter clamping with less risk of cracking.

As far as vibrating loose of the threaded portion, Locktite blue will fix that.

 

The portion of the fiberglass that the bolt force acts on is cantilevered toward the bed, and over-tightening the bolt puts the cantilevered portion in bending, it's not necessarily a failure at the bolt hole and there's no actual "crushing" force put on the fiberglass so I don't think spreading the load will do much.

OP my bolts are 10-15 ft*lbs max and I wheel the snot out of my truck and it's never budged.

 

My shell has been on since 2014 and I haven’t touched it.

 

I have to re tighten my leer cap bolts every few months, my truck sees off road use for work most every day though. I tighten until I feel like it's tight without risking cracking the cap. Mine did shift ahead this fall aftera stretch of not re tightening the bolts and almost dug into the paint where the box side meets the head board

 

You're so right. A bigger washer just makes the "wing" snap off easier vs stripping through the fibreglass. I just checked mine. I think "just snug enough that the bolt doesn't rattle" is good.

 

I appreciate all the help, im only use to the c clamp style where you dont have to really worry about it, like andrew said the fiberglass is cantalevered over the bed so your actually bowing that section of fiberglass where your tightening the bolts, that part where the bolt goes is a good deal thicker, i did notice after i pulled all the bolts and clamps to try and get my factory tie down knobs on that the used seal on it had the cap stuck pretty good i put a little force on the shell and it did not want to lift, so when i figured out factory tie down knobs that tighten the tie downs to the track wasnt going to work i put them back in and tightened with the head of the ratchet insteads of the handle. My bolts had 1" diameter washers against the fiberglass.

 

Dam mine are way tighter than that.

 

Im going to go check the torque and thinking about installing nylock nuts on the bottom side of the clamps where the bolt goes through, i would hate to screw up my topper lol thats why im asking for advice, nothing like experience from you guys.

 

Holy shit I've never checked mine, maybe I should. You guys are stesssing me out

 

https://youtu.be/gu31VyXlTzo

 

Ha ha sorry

 

I dont think you can use the torque wrench method, after i got them pretty tight by choking the ratchet head i set my torque wrench on 10' lbs and the fiberglass is deflecting as you check the torque, its not like your torqueing a bolt and nut through a piece of metal where it pulls up solid, i think the fiberglass will crack before it shows 10' lbs, i chickened out after a couple of rounds with the torque wrench and backed it back off and choked the ratchet head again and retightened then measured between the top of the clamp and fiberglass and got the measurements equal all the way around.usually the torque is set by the bolt size not the material your torqueing,

 

this is the style I'm running and I have them as TIGHT as the clamps will allow me to get them.

 

2 grunts before a strip...

 

I like the nylock nut idea. Mine are loose every time I check them. Usually once a year, if that.