how long does the original clutch last?

Pedal engagement point is starting to feel a bit weird now at 135k miles
throwout bearing chirp has been getting worse too

not sure how much a parts kit is. I've seen one go up to $1,400

 

My last truck had the original factory clutch when I sold it and it was 20 years old with plenty of life left in it.

It also had the original brake pads and shoes too.

The correct answer is nobody can tell you how long or how many miles. There are too many variables to even start to guess.

If YOU feel it is time at 135K miles then do it.

$1,400 for a clutch parts kit is crazy.

 

mine finally let go at 270k miles. Can't say for sure that its the original but it was definitely a Luk oem clutch.

 

Very true.

 

I've seen them go in as little as 1,000 miles with a terrible driver riding the hell out of them.

 

If you know how to drive a MT and continually drove the interstate back and forth from CA to NC it would outlast the engine. If you drive in NYC every day, 20k miles would be great. If you don't know what you're doing, several days/weeks as said. I changed my Tacoma clutch at ~110K miles because the transmission was out, and the disc was still essentially new at ~90% the OE thickness spec

 

just depends on the driver & driving conditions as others have said......

easy 150K miles if you take care of it......replacement ?

For me if/when the time comes....Toyota OEM will go in it.....

 

151k on mine. No slipping when i floor it 4th (1:1 gear). No plan to change until that happens.

Seems like it does engage at a higher clutch point. So slippage might be sooner than later.

 

I will say though having helped do a 5 spd clutch replacement, and having removed my 6 spd from my truck myself, the 5spd is about a million times easier

 

I agree wholeheartedly with this. Ive done a 5spd and a 6spd and the six speed was way worse. Ypipe and all those sensors and other crap in the way. 5spd ive had the trans out of the truck in 30mins

 

i honestly wouldn’t complain even that much about the exhaust other than my brackets that support the headers on one side were rusted solid, but why in the fuckin hell did Toyota have to use only hard line on the slave cylinder and have it bolt to like 45 different things....

 

looking at replacing with new LuK flywheel ($70) and Aisin clutch/pressure plate from RockAuto,
+ ClutchMasters hydraulic throwout bearing to get rid of the squeak

gonna research what else is needed while in there, such as certain bolts which might be one time use.

Do mods affect clutch life?
Such as bigger tires, if they're harder to accelerate. And exhaust, if it adds some power (ClutchMasters seems to suggest stuff like an exhaust requires a pressure plate upgrade)

Maybe if the tires are bigger, that's more resistance the clutch is up against/facing when it gets released via the pedal.
I hear some bigger tires can be lighter, but the weight is also farther out in the tread.

Namely 265 70 17 ("4Runner size upgrade") vs. 265 65 17 (stock)

 

Not really. If you add a supercharger, pulley, tune....., then yes...but theres probably people w/ that setup on an oem clutch and no issues too. Adding bolt-ons will not require a new clutch. Same w/ the tires. Not even close to enough added stress to require an upgraded clutch.

to answer the OP question, I remember reading somewhere they said the average expectancy is around 200k. I don't remember how they came up w/ that number. But it's probably close to accurate. I'm at 140k and I have no signs of needing a replacement.

 

Bigger as in having a larger diameter, which affects the amount of torque you need to apply in order to achieve the same force application.... absolutely will affect clutch life!
Unless you re-gear to compensate.

The weight is **irrelevant**. Its the diameter that makes the impact.
You are increasing the diameter by 1 inch, which is pretty significant.

The equation relating torque to force is T = rF sin θ
In the case of a tire, θ will always be 90 degrees, and sin 90 = 1, so that reduces to T = rF
r = diameter/2

And of course, we can flip that equation around to find that F = T/r
So you can see that as r increases, F decreases. This means that to achieve the same F, you must increase T proportionally with the increase in r.
Now T, of course, goes through your clutch. At a different ratio mind you, but in the same proportion.
That means that in order to deliver the same F, you need to deliver more torque through your clutch, which of course increases slip and heat and wear.

 

I broke mine at 100k miles. I was spinning tires through 3rd gear on a wet road. The mechanic said he had never seen a clutch break like it did. Cost $900 the replace

 

The driver and geography where the vehicle is driven dictate how long a clutch will last. You've got 135k on it now. Have it checked by a shop that you trust and see what they say! No use jumping to the worst case scenario right off the bat.

 

When I was a kid if a clutch saw 20K miles it could count itself lucky. They magically turn into a rat's nest after that.

 

Since you refer to when you were a "kid", I can only imagine that your father didn't make you fix it yourself when you fucked it up by continuously slipping the clutch.

 

I did the same thing when I was a kid. And yes I had to fix it if I wanted to go anywhere. That’s how I learned to work on vehicles.
Apparently dumping the clutch at 3,500 rpms to do burnouts is bad for them

I had a v6 S10 I put 6 clutches and 2 transmissions in. I could have a new clutch in it in about 45 mins after about the 3 time doing it.

I still do the same thing now. I know I’m going to wear out and break shit off-roading. And I going to be the one fixing it. But you have to pay to play.

 

Until it fails
There is to many variables with a clutch assembly to give a accurate answer.
I’ve had clutches only last 15k when I was a punk kid doing burnouts to my last MT it lasted 150k.