How important is hub-centric? Hub bore is 106.1? Tolerance?

I'm looking for wheels for my rig. How important do you guys feel it is to have hub-centric wheels?

Some wheel manufacturer website don't even list the hub bore.

I see our hub bore is 106.1 but I also see wheels out there with specs of 106.25. Is there wiggle room here? How dead on are these measurements from wheel mfg to wheel mfg?

 

Try to measure out .1 of a millimeter and tell me if you think it'll be a big difference. All I'm gonna say is I've seen tires a few millimeters out of round pass as road worthy. Also, consider 108mm rims and a 2mm hub ring spacer as a combo, it'll open up options for you.

 

almost all aftermarket wheels are lug centric with oversized hub bores so they can fit on more vehicles. OE wheels are hub centric since the manufacturer has to only worry about fitting on one vehicle.

 

Oh, I hear you. Trust me. But .1mm is a huge effing deal in the wrong place. I was leaning not so much when it comes to wheels to hub fitment but thought I'd ask the collective brain (or lack thereof) trust.

 

I was going to put Mickey Thompson wheels on my truck but they were not hub centric. I looked at allot of wheels online and didn't want spacers. Finally I decided to buy Toyota oem alloy wheels so I would sleep better at night. Cannot wait till the weather warms up so I can put some tire shine on the tires.

 

Looks good. But I just feel I gotta do something different. Soooo many of those out there right now. I'm thinking Method 313's but they ain't cheap.

 

Ha, Ha. I know what you mean. I looked at SCS Ray10's. Loved em but not for how much they cost.

 

be wary of non hub size matching wheels. the toyota steering rack is very sensitive to out of balance / out of round wheels. I actually returned my methods via DTD due to them being unable to balance out and not shake. they refused hubcentric rings saying they weren't necessary. The issue is that just because the wheel may be lug centric, it may be slightly off center from the axle when torqued down causing vibration.

my fj, my 4runner, and now the tacoma all had this issue. some folks don't have the issue or get lucky. others just don't care.

 

I have a laugh when fellas complain about driveline vibrations and curse Toyota, then in their pictures they are running Chinese knock-off lug-centric wheels. Like WTF?

 

This right here... Took more wheel and tire courses than I'd care to admit when I managed a Goodyear shop and basically, hub-centric wheels are capable of better tolerances and better balance if they are properly made for the application. This is why OEM wheels are frequently made hub-centric since they're only for one vehicle (thought they generally work on similar configurations like year-to-year and Taco-4Runner).

 

Nothing's ever easy or free. Half say no prob, the other half say hubcentric only. I can almost guarantee that if I buy non hubcentric wheels, THEY WILL shake rattle and roll. And nobody will take responsibility for it.

What's DTD?

 

Toyota wheels studs are designed to provide clamping force they are not designed to hold the weight of the vehicle which is one of the reasons why the wheels are hub centric.

 

Discount tire direct.

My hub centric wheels still needed road force balancing.

The problem is more the steering rack design.

 

I wouldn't chance lug centric wheels on a truck designed for hub centric wheels. Nobody is gonna tell you what your risk tolerance is, though. I've sheared lugs at speed in this truck, and I am not interested in ever having that happen again.

 

I always, always, ALWAYS run hub centric wheels. If I can't find aftermarket wheels with the correct hub bore, I pass. That is one of the main reasons I have T4R Pro 17" wheels on mine. I knew they wouldn't give me any issues.

 

I feel like I am dealing with the same issues. I recently started to investigate my shakes. I had the shakes on the factory rims with stock tires and larger tires. I had KM3's installed and the shop that installed them is not my usually shop. So I was surprised when I drove away and didn't feel the shakes. Couple months later I installed 4" lift spindles and AAL and the shakes came back immediately. I installed the hub centric rings (and removed center caps because I could not install both at the same time - method mesh 16x8) and it helped slightly. But when I was installing the rings I noticed one rim had the hub bore ground down (powder coat missing) and a second rim had the slightest elongation in each lug hole. It's perceptible by feel. Then it dawned on me, my original shop probably ground the hub diameter down because the elongation was enough where they couldn't get the rim on over the center cap. The crappiest part about the whole thing is method doesn't offer my size rim in that style any longer.

 

i am kind of dumb on this subject....but what does "T4R Pro 17" " mean......is it toyota 4 runner Pro 17"wheels?

 

you got it Sir.

 

Anyone know the hub bore spec on these wheels?

https://www.methodracewheels.com/products/313-matte-black