How can i tell if i have locking diff

Heh guys just bought a beat up 2012 with 4wd. Dont even know what model it is yet. Im trying to replace the differential carrier and all the gears in it or buy a complete one. I need to know if mine is locking or non locking though. New to 4wd so im learning about all this. How can i tell if its a locking differential. I know it needs lsd additive because it says that on the diff. Any help would be appreciated.

 

If it has the sticker for lsd, then it's just lsd. No locker.

 

Easiest way is to poke your head under your truck and look at your axle. If it looks like this, you have a locker.

 

Probably a sport edition if it has an LSD, so technically no locker.

 

Also a 2012 won’t need lsd additive so not sure what you’re looking at.

 

You would also have a cool switch on the driver side panel, along with Atrac and the other Offroad goodies.

 

If it has a factory locker it’ll have the rr diff lock switch at top center of pic

 

Ah ok i dont think i have the locker then ill have to go double check if i have the rr diff lock button as well. Cant remember. Man you guys are so much help. This going to be a big project. Pretty aure transmission is shot along with the diff. Maybe i should make a build thread after all this

 

Sounds like it's not the original diff if it says add LSD additive. the 2012s don't need it as it's supposed to be a auto lsd.

 

Interesting. Wouldnt suprise me since they beat the hell out of this thing.... ill go snap some pics when i get home. I def need a lot of help and advice on this. Lol

 

Just look for the button in the cab shown above

Matt

 

Def will

 

Also if it is supposed to be a locking rear and they swapped the axle would there be soke indication on the dash or light on if i left this as an lsd and just replacedthe carrier. I thought i remmember a few connectors zip tied to the axle that arnt connected. Again ill get pics when i get home. Just contemplating ahead of time.

 

Either it's really a 2005-2007 Sport Tacoma (not a 2012) or someone swapped a 2005-2007 Sport axle onto that 2012....Toyota stopped putting true LSD's in the Sport Tacomas in 2008

 

Pretty sure

I think they swapped the axle. According th vin its a 12

 

Well boys looks like i did have locking rear diff. But these retards seemed to have swapped to an lsd and managed to destroy that as well ive included pictures into the differential and other damage to the truck lol. Is it safe ti assume that the bundle of zip tied harness plugs qere supposed to go to electronic locking diff stuff? So my question now is should i just stick to the lsd, keep the axles if they are even good i have no idea. Pull the carrier out and swap it with another whole carrier with all the parts and go from there? I dont do aby crazy offroad. This is just a project to help me learn ill probably move on to a new truck when im done. Will i have any lights on my dash if i dont put the correct axle with locking diff back? Can i find a locking rear diff carrier and put that in this lsd axle housing? Def need expert advise here boys.

 

Your first order of business, before any repairs, should be to get rid of those wheels.

It looks like they swapped the E-locker 8" rear with a T100 8.4 rear. If you're sure that it is damaged, then you have a few options. You can buy a complete 3rd member (open, TruTrac, ARB locker), or you can rebuild it. The good thing about either is you can decide what size tire you plan on running and gear it accordingly. Since you are asking if it is locked, I'd suggest you just buy a complete 3rd member from ECGS with the configuration you want. It's as easy as removing the drain plug, pulling your axles out a tad, then unbolting the 3rd member. Since the truck is new to you, it's a great idea to replace all the axle seals and throw some new crush washers on the drain/fill plug.

The new, ready to bolt on 3rd member will run you $675. If you want to add an ARB then you're looking at an extra $875, and $495 for the TrueTrac. I'd suggest getting the ARB, as reliable onboard air is invaluable and you can leave the diff open for normal driving conditions. Anyone who suggests otherwise is a cuck and shouldn't be trusted.

This should get you going:
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-788575-tacoma-8-4-non-eld-t100-tundra-3rd.html

 

Ha ha are these really crappy wheels? I may just buy a set of stock 2012's with good tires temporarily while i get this thing repaired. Tranny most likely is gone as well so it cant even move atm.

Ah ok thankyou for all the info. Im pretty sure i could rebuild rhe current 3rd member if it isnt destroyed. Is that what the whole assembly is called. Im still learning terminology. Im pretty mechanically inclined but still learning about drivetrain parts. Ill check out the link you sent.

If i do leave it as a lsd with no locker am i going to have somthing showing on my dash? Also what the hell are all those zip tied connectors supposed to go to. Electronic diff if there was one?

 

Yes, the bolted part comes out with the entire assembly and is known as the third member. I don't have an e-locker, but some or all of the cables go to the actuator. The only cables that run down the rear section of the frame are wheel sensors, trailer harness, lights, and your e-locker actuator. If it was me, I'd just look at a manual or google image/ebay the 3rd member and see how many connections and plug types are on it so you know what's what. Also, if you don't have a warning light now, then it won't matter what you do with that 3rd member, as there are no electronics that run to it.

So I'm guessing you have an automatic transmission? What makes you say it's damaged?

 

Nothing wrong with the wheels. Its personal taste/style. They have a small sidewall so you wont have the ability to air down on the beach or trails to get better grip or cushion from rough terrain. Get the thing running and driving before worrying about changing them or leave them if you like them.
I cant really help with the 3rd member stuff but it is def not the original axle with the locker. Staying with the LSD and not putting a locker version in should not leave any lights on the dash. Have fun with your project and once its up and running it should hopefully return it back to its known reliability.