How can I bypass the immobilizer for an Emergency Start?

I have a 2013 Tacoma V6, the motor will turn over but it will not crank. Sometimes I can wiggle the key back and forth and it will crank and run fine. The motor runs fine when it finally starts.
Any ideas on how I can bypass the immobilizer to get it cranked to take it to a repair shop?
I was told by the Toyota dealership that it is more than likely the immobilizer. I have tried my spare factory key and it will not always crank with it either.

I have tried unhooking the battery cable already, it did not work.

Please Help any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

 

The only bypass for the immobilizer is a tow truck.

 

Watch the blinking red car symbol in the middle of the dash. If the light goes out when you put the key in, you have some other kind of problem, and most likely not the imobilizer circuit.

 

I was hoping I could prevent calling a tow truck.

 

If you have towing insurance on your insurance, use it. State Farm, Farmers, etc.

 

I will check that when I get home from work. Thank you

 

Ok here is what I came up with. It is not the immobilizer. The little red key doesn’t flash when I turn the key on. I cleaned the battery cables real good connected it battery back she cranked right up. Cranked it 3-4 times then it wouldn’t crank. Checked battery with volt meter barely read over 12 volts. Tried cranking again with volt meter and read barely over 11 volts. Decided I would try swapping the battery with a known good battery. Cranked right up. Tried it 3-4 times started normal. I’m going to wait about 20-30 minutes and go try it again before I put the battery back in my work truck. Could it just have a bad cell?

 

The only way to know for sure if a battery is any good is to charge it up completely with a battery charger and then perform a load test on it.

Next time you start it, check the charging voltage with your volt meter. That's not a perfect test of the charging system, but it'll give you an idea if the charging system is doing anything, or is completely out to lunch.

Whatever you do, make absolutely, positively, 110% sure you don't hook the battery up backwards.

 

Sounds like a bad cell, I had a 4runner in the shop today that couldn't be boosted by normal means because of the battery.

You're on the right track at least! Maybe get a AVR (battery/charging) test done at a part store once its running.

 

I checked it while it was running and it was reading 13.7

 

I put the battery back in the truck drove it around town 5-10 minutes and came home turned it off and it wouldn’t start again.

 

Sounds like a bad battery. Like I mentioned though, the only way to know 100% for sure is a load test.

 

Crank is NOT start....motor will turn over but it will not start

 

I will get it checked this weekend.

 

Does the key need a new battery? Maybe the immobilizer doesnt know that its inserted. Not sure how the keys are in the 2013s

 

Well guys I guess I am going to haul it to the dealership tomorrow and let them look at it. When I got home from work yesterday I changed the battery, the truck started just fine. Drove it around for about 20 mins and on the way home I was driving about 60 mph and it cut out while I was driving down to 40 mph then back up. I made it to my dads, turned the truck off and when I got ready to leave his house it would start but its acting like its not getting any fuel. Spitting and Sputtering then it died. Now it won't start at all. It almost acts like the fuel pump went out but I have no idea.

 

No I didn't. How would I know if it is bad?

 

Lights dimming etc? have you had someone check the alternator to make sure it's charging?

 

I checked it with a volt meter a couple of days ago. It is charging fine.

 

I looked at it. They're wanting a range of resistance, assuming your volt meter does ohms. If it wasn't for having to unmount/ remove the AC compressor it's only one bolt and it comes out.

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