Honda EU2000i generator, not running

I need some advice from those of you that have repaired small engines.

Here's the back story. The original owner of this generator was running it on the beach. He was concerned that the sand would damage the generator so he covered it in plastic. He cut holes in the plastic for ventilation, but forgot to cut holes for the intake.

Long story short, the generator finally quit running and would not restart. He stated that white smoke came from the exhaust and the engine died. I do work on the side for this guy and he agreed to give me the generator if his mechanic told him it was going to cost too much to repair. The mechanic stated that it was either a bent valve or connecting rod. The engine still turns over so I don't think it's a rod.


I was hoping to throw a new spark plug in it and get it running, thinking it was just flooded, but maybe not. Here's what i found when I pulled the spark plug.

This is looking through the spark plug hole at the top of the piston. I'm guessing that a new piston will be in order.



Here's the spark plug. It was wet with gas when I pulled it.



The piston moves freely, but does feel rough. So, should I start tearing the engine apart now, or put a new plug in and see what happens?

 

I would just pull it apart. Small engines are fairly easy to rip down and put back together. Then at least you will have an idea of what needs replacing. Get a manual for it and inspect/ replace parts as needed. Will probably come out way cheaper than purchasing one unless the block is messed up

 

Choking off the air supply won't bend a rod. The top of that piston looks normal for a small engine.

White smoke usually means unburned fuel... check to see if it has ingnition/spark, eliminating the plug, coil and on/off switch.

 

That's first on the list. I'm going to pick up a new spark plug and go from there.

I also found a service manual for it.

 

Ok, first test done. I don't have spark. Time to go find a new spark plug and try again.

 

Hey, does it have compression?

I don't know your knowlege extent on engines, but does the compression feel like a normal small engine when pulling the starter... spark plug in of coarse.

 

Yes, it does have compression. It feels like it should when turning over and with the spark plug out and my finger over the hole there is plenty of compression.

 

So I've confirmed no spark with a new spark plug. The service manual has a whole host of electrical checks to go through for different sensors and parts of the ignition system. I believe I have found at least one faulty component, the ignition pulse generator. The pulse generator attaches to the stator so there will be a little more disassembly of the case.

I've also found balled up plastic beads all over the inside of the plastic housing. They're either from the plastic cover being ingested or the cooling fan got too hot and disintegrated. We'll see what's going on once I tear into it a little more.

Running tally of cost:

Ignition Pulse Generator - $31.79

 

Common problem on these generators, and I see it time and time again: Check oil level and oil level switch. If the oil level is low, or the switch is bad, then no spark will happen. Self protection mode really. Considering that there was "white smoke" I am thinking the oil may have been drawn out of the crank somehow.

This is just a simple possibility. Check oil - test for spark..... Jumper switch - test for spark.

 

Yup, the oil was low, but still hitting the dipstick. The first test the service manual tells you to do is check continuity on the oil level sensor. It tested good, meaning there was no continuity between the two wires I was supposed to test. If only it were that easy.

Keep the ideas coming.

I'm actually planning on draining the oil just to see if I get continuity between the leads like I'm supposed too. If I still don't have continuity then I'll order the oil level sensor as well.

 

I am not sure if I am reading the wiring diagram the same or not, but on MY generated (granted it is NOT a Honda) the oil level switch is closed when oil level is good, and open when oil level is low.

Other things to check, just in general is the ECO switch, and I am assuming you have checked the engine "stop" switch.

 

The test for the engine stop switch is to disconnect it and pull the string. There should be spark with the switch disconnected. No love though.

It looks like the Honda is different. I'll drain the oil and test that the lines actually do have continuity before I tear into it any more.

"Test the oil level switch. Make sure the
oil level in the engine is correct and the
generator is on a level surface. On the
engine side of the 6-pin connector,
check for continuity between the yellow
wire and green wire.

There should be no continuity with the
proper oil level."

I don't see a test for the ECO switch.

 

These things are hateful to repair due to being totally enclosed, and very compact. If you can find the ignition kill wire that goes to the ignition module, unhook it, and see if you have spark, that will eliminate other electrical components in the ignition circuit. If you do that, and still have no spark, I'd say it's the ignition module that's bad. I have seen some Honda spark plug connectors go bad. If it has the big hard plastic one, with a brass insert that has a big straight screw driver slot. If you unscrew that brass insert there is a spring and a small resistor under it. That resistor can go bad, and should read about 10k ohms.
I'm not sure if this unit has this type of spark plug connector, but it would be worth looking at to see if it does. Good luck! I hate working on these units, especially if you have to get into the engine itself. It's kinda like a 3-D jigsaw puzzle.