High Lift Jack to change a Flat on lifted truck

I tried changing a tire on a 2in lifted truck using three different jacks to see which method worked best for me.

1) I used a floor jack with a 14 3/4 inch movement. I had to use a large block under the jack to get enough extension to lift the truck high enough. The floor jack would pop as it slid against the frame. I added a larger board to allow the floor jack to roll and lifted the truck. The floor jack is large and so are the Boards. I didnt want to to use this as the method to change a flat.

2) I tried using a High Lift jack . I have a hitch receiver in the front and back of the truck. This is what I use as the lift point. I found the High Lift jack to be unstable lifting the truck and just operating the High Lift was sketchy. To use the receiver as a lift point I have to lift both back wheels or front wheels resulting in a three points holding the truck up which is unstable. If I had Rock Guard bars under the sides of the truck I would have a 4 points on the ground and it would be stable

3) I modified my stock Toyota jack by welding a 6 inch extension to the jack shaft. Removed the swivel on top of the shaft and welded a 6 inch extension.
I admit that the jack looks like a POS. But it works and is not as sketchy as a High Lift jack and as bulky as a floor jack with more Big blocks.

All three methods require using blocks under a Jack Stand to hold the truck up before I would get under it to change the flat. The floor jack and welded stock jack require blocks under them also. The High Lift does not require blocks under it unless you are in soft soil. Jacks are not good enough to hold the truck up a jack stand is required on all lifting methods.

So using the Stock jack with a Jack stand is how I am changing flats until I get Rock Guard bars installed. I will keep the High Lift on the truck as a alternate method but the welded Jack is what I will use for now. I am comfortable with the weld to add the extension on, It's a beefy weld and I don't get under the truck until I have the jack stand holding the truck.

I posted pictures of the welded up jack before and got a comment about they would not trust a Jack that was Jerry rigged ... I don't get under the truck until the Jack Stand is holding the truck and I admit its a Jerry rig but a strong jerry rig.

I'm not pushing the modification of the stock jack, it's just what I am going to use. Each to his or her own.

How do you jack your lifted truck up to change a flat on the road or trail?

 

I put the floor jack under the axle in the back or under the control arm in the front.
Once up in the air I put a HD jackstand (bigger jackstand) under the frame, take the wheel off, lower onto the jackstand.

 

That's how i do it too.

 

I carry a 20 ton bottle jack and a stack of those plastic RV leveling blocks. You can put the jack on top of the blocks and lift the frame near the wheel in question. It's slightly bigger than the stock jack, but pretty stable. It's way smaller/lighter than hauling my high lift jack wherever I go.

 

I have used the axles and control arm on other trucks as a lift point but have not used that lift point on this truck ( I should have ). Thanks for posting. I will need to get HD Jack Stands but lifting it using the control arms and rear axle is a way better lift point. Thanks

 

At home I use my floor jack with about a 6" 4x4 on the pad to make contact with the truck. This is only to get it high enough to clear the ground and then deploy the jack stands. I'll lift the entire front at the crossmember. The rear I'll one at the time.

On the road...I've never had to since I've lifted it. I'll need to address that when I get home. And while I'm thinking, I'll need different lugnuts for the spare now since I have aftermarket wheels.