high angle cv boots..

what's the general consensus on the best high angle inner boots to use?

i've read about using porsche 930 boots ..and some other random brands.

what's the word?

 

The word is ... the stock CV boots really suck ( as in most vehicles)...

Actually I'm glad you started this thread 'cause I've been thinking about what kind of material & design would be superior & long lasting for an after market product idea, something somewhat generic & universal in application , I dunno yet but I'm going back to the "think tank" ( Bar down the street from me) & well, you know, "think "....



stay tuned

 

i have the porsche boots done on my taco. They work really well and if you don't want to do the diff drop then get the boots done, keeping in mind that you have to take the cv joints off to get them on.

 

http://www.offroad-engineering.com/930cvboots.html

is a good place to start. Those are the boots i used for my truck. You might have to research your own axles. maybe if you get both repair manuals for 1st and 2nd gen trucks it will tell you the diameter of the axles where the boot fits over.
These boots are bot durable and soft. And they have more "ribs" so they stretch quite a distance.

 

Would you mind elaborating on that. Did the arms stick down too much and not clear the skid? Curious who's skid are you referring to? Bud Built? Armor tech? All Pro?

 

Somebody used to make a spiral design CV boot. This goes back several years ago (7-10).

Instead of the concentric ring design of the stock boot and the 930 boot, the "ridge and valley" (the high and low points) were a spiral design. It was almost impossible to get the ridges to touch within the limits of CV joints functional range of movement.

Anyone recall those?

 

I put some aftermarket high angle boots on mine that are supposed to be for lifted trucks but they suck. They were from some cv rebuild website that people say alot of good things about but ive had them on for 15k miles and they are so dry rot and cracked that one of them is splitting through and leaking already. Im going back to factory actually already bought them just need to put them on.

 

I remember those spiral ones. That was a long time ago though. Seemed almost like a trend thing and then they kinda disappeared.

All Pro are the only ones I know about that are selling a longer cv boot for 1st gens. Never tried them. I decided to go the route of lifetime axles and just swap them out when a boot tears.

 

this is what i decied to do as well. ...picked up a pair of GSP cv's from advance auto parts for $70 a piece and stretched the innner boots to where the fins don't touch. i also lowered my co's a bit. ..had 1.5" of thread showing ..now i have 1.25" showing. hope this cures my boot issues.

 

Boot slip mod link

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=158695&highlight=boots

 

thank you, sir!

 

Do your SAWs adjust from the bottom or the top? 1.5, or even 1.25 would be way too much if it is like mine. I think I'm at less that 1" because of the axle angle. My SAWs adjust from the top.

 

https://www.rcvperformance.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=37&products_id=84

 

$585 a side !!!, I have deep pockets but damn

 

Wow. Gold plated with platinum gears? Personally autographed by Dale Earnhardt? Almost $600 is really extravagant for a rebuilt axle... Guess that price includes the core charge also, so you'll get some of that back ($50 core from RockAuto), but still....

 

mine adjust from the top as well.

i just kept lowering them until the inner fins weren't touching.

what sucks is the boots are stretched out (as they should be) on the passenger side ..so i didn't have much rubbing on that side and didn't have to lower it too much. ..but the boots on the drivers side are all squished up and by the time i lowered it to where the fins didn't touch, it was .75" lower than the passenger side.

i guess i need to remove both axles, replace the boots, and stretch the boots the same ammount on both sides. ..that way the height at which the fins touch will be the same on both sides..

another thing to mention ...DON'T USE THE FENDER FLARE AS A MEASURING POINT (too much variation from left to right for some reason)
when i get the distance from the center of the hub to the fender flare equal on both sides, the distance from the ground to the frame on both sides is off by .5" ....so i decided to do all my measuring from the ground to the frame..

very aggravating!

 

guaranteed against breakage so theoretically, those will be the last axles you will ever need to buy for your truck

 

When I first installed the SAWs I set them with ~1.25" of thread showing. Had some vibs at high speeds (above 55 mph) even with the diff drop added and noted that boot fins were touching. I lowered it to where they no longer touch and the vibs disappeared. I have ~.75" of thread showing and near as I can calculate I am about ~2.5" higher than stock. That is fine for now as I am able to clear 32s with no issues.

Yeah, definitely can't measure by the bottom if the flare. Found that out early on.

 

Personally I perfer the $59 life time warranty alxes from Kragen, any time a boot splits just go get another axle for free. You have to pull the axle anyway, so why not get 2 new boots while your at it, and with no messy grease.