Help with traction bars please!

Howdy y’all, I recently ordered some pro-comp knock off traction bars and mounting them is proving difficult. I was wondering if anybody had the instillation diagram for pro-comp traction bars that fit a 2011 Prerunner. I’ve messaged them and I haven’t had any response so far. Supposedly these bars are an exact match to pro-comp so hopefully their instructions will be comparable. Thanks for the help.

 

I don’t see why 2011 would be any different?
But I found the installation.pdf for 2005-2009

Maybe that will help?
https://www.4wheelparts.com/sku/Pro Comp Suspension/standard/72083B_INST.pdf

 

I think that’s exactly what I’m looking for! Thank you amigo.

 

Oof, a non swinging traction bar, let the binding ensue.

 

Swinging traction bar? I’m new to traction bars. Could you explain?

 

You are effectively tying the axle to the frame at all times.
It makes for a harsher ride. Not ideal unless you’re goal is to make big power and get it to the ground.

What is your reasons for “wanting” traction bars?
Axle wrap?

 

Severe axle wrap. My truck has been in and out of the shop and it’s all came back as axle wrap. Also I think these bars are supposed to pivot where they mount at the axle and at the frame. I don’t know how well they will move however.

 

Are you still running OE leaf springs?
Are you running spacers under the springs?
They are weak to start with, lifting the truck doesn’t help them any either.

 

Yupp, OE springs but they’re in decent shape. And yes the truck has 3” blocks in the rear.

 

The blocks add “leverage” to the rear axle.
Kind of like using a “cheater” pipe on a wrench.
If those blocks are a full 3”, that’s a lot.

Generally, 1” is about all you want to see. (And still not recommend)
It’s been discussed many time here.
I’ll drop a link below to one. It kind of explains what wrap is and why blocks exacerbate the situation.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/are-rear-spacer-blocks-bad.659452/page-2#post-23050567

 

If it were me, I’d look into a good quality full leaf pack.

 

I appreciate it. I think when I get a few dimes together I’ll do a completely different build with this truck. I’m sure new leaf springs are the best way to go for sure.

 

I can understand, we are all on a budget.
Sometimes we have to make do with what we have.

 

Agreed, thanks for the help friend.

 

I bet it wasnt much if any more to get a full leaf pack for the truck.

When i said "non swinging" I should of stated traction bar without a shackle to allow the axle to move forward and back freely (and rotate with articulation) like this

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/budbuilt-traction-bar-installed.441496/

I had a budbuild bar, but with poly bushings, there was still a good chunk of wrap, and even with heim joints at the axle to fix that problem, the center OEM crossmember isnt made to handle those kind of loads and would flex BAD.

 

Are you talking about the crossmember not handling the load while wheeling or just everyday driving? The only purpose my truck has is to get me back and forth from work and to haul very light loads. Do you think I will encounter the same issues?

 

Returning to OE height and upgrading your shocks and tires for ride improvement would be an option.

 

I sure do like the lifted look though.

 

general springs Kansas City heavy duty Leafs with 1.5in lift blocks. no axle wrap and about 3" of lift. Can also load 3/4 of a pallet of cinder blocks with little sag. This setup is stiff, but probably less stiff than traction bars.

 

The procomp style ones mount to the frame so there wouldnt be an issue there.