Help with 4Runner steering?

Hey, all.

I've (also) got a '98 4Runner. 3.4, Auto, 2wd, 197k miles. The steering is loose, and I sometimes get a bit of a shimmy when breaking. I suspect the rack is the problem, but I don't know how to really diagnose it. Can y'all help me with some diagnostic steps?

I've got a couple of videos of the rack while turning the wheels back and forth. They are currently uploading to youtube. I'll edit this post and add them when they are ready.

Thanks,

Matt

Edit: Youtube links:
https://youtu.be/nsL9cqmp5LQ
https://youtu.be/n1757NGQIR8

 

Jack it up, wiggle the front two sides. If there is play, it could be either the rack as a whole, tie rods, or wheel bearing. Take off the wheels and check the boots for the tie rods, check you lower ball joints, check for leakage from the steering rack, check the torque on your bolts, there really is no way to diagnose the wheel bearings unless you shake the wheel with it on the truck or you take your whole spindle off and take the wheel bearings out, which is way too much work for just trying to get a diagnosis of a problem. Also, you can't see the inner tie rods, because they are under the two boots on either side of the rack, to check if they are worn out, which they most likely are if you havent changed them in the 197k life of the truck, just unbolt the outer tie rod from the lower ball joint, and shimmy it first inwards and outward to try to hear for play, then if there is none, lift the tie rod, and drop it, if it drops super easily, the chances are, you need new inner tie rods, and when you do that, you might as well replace the outers as well...

 

Don't count out the slip joint in the steering column..

 

I did this. Can't tell if there's play or not. Well, there is. The steering wheel turns a little. Whether there's more play than the steering wheel lock allows, I can't tell.

Check them for what?

Again, looking for what?

Excellent. I'll try.

Don't know what that is. Where do I find it? How do I test it?

How do I test the rack itself?

 

I had mine jacked up (driver side frt. wheel) shook the wheel/tire left & right, had about 1.5 inches of slack inside the boot. Haven't moved the boot to see for sure but is most likely the inner tie rod. Will check tie passinger side today & figure out what parts to order. My 01 4x4 has a hard shimmy out there during sudden hard braking

 

Could someone please link the steering column mod thread for him, my phone is not being nice!

 

Replace your rack and pinion bushings, the steering rack itself is moving way too in the rack mounts, causing a loose feeling. I had similar symptoms on my '98 Tacoma, until I replaced my bushings.

 

Are those bushings *inside* the rack, or something else?

 

The rack bushing on the driver side goes through the bottom of the rack which is tightened by the nut in your first video. There is a center mount which points down as well. The bushing on your passenger side is held on by the horse shoe looking bracket via nuts, both "brackets" secure the rack and pinion to the cross frame. If either bushings or in your case all are worn or missing, it will make your steering feel loose.

I attached a picture I found online that point out the rack bushings. hope it helps.

 

Thanks that helps. So, I can change those bushings without opening the rack. I'll look at those a little closer and find replacements. I'll also do the tie-rod checks above. Anything else will be a big help. I don't mind working on it, but I've never worked on steering before.

 

From the vids I see several issues. There may be more in the other components already mentioned.

That rack is the "old style" with an internal component known as a "guide" that would develop play in short order. As little as 20K miles on a stocker, less on a lifted rig. The play is more apparent on the driver side. Slide the boot off the d-side rack and get physical with the rack shaft. Shake it up and down, there should be zero movement. At this time you can also observe any play in the inner tie rod. Do this with the wheels straight ahead and the column unlocked.

The rack mount bushings already mentioned are shot.

I see 2 maybe 3 leaks, unless there is an oil leak from above. Sometimes these racks can "seep" for years while still functioning OK but the leaks will never get better, only worse.

So, putting any time/money into that rack may not be a long term solution. Best bet will be keep up the diagnostics/learning until you get the big picture and go from there based on your skills, plans for the truck and finances.

Here is the slip joint "fix" the other fellow mentioned. Diagnostic info will be found in the first post and a shortcut drastically simplifying the whole process is in post #42.

 

Good stuff. Thanks.

Do I take it that you mean that is likely that my best move is to simply replace the rack?

And there is an oil leak from above. Plus, I sprayed some degreaser around down there, so that may be some of the fluid you see. I do need to check for leaks more closely. If I find them are they non-fixable except with a new rack? Finally, any leak is power steering fluid, I guess? Lines run from the pump to the rack?

 

Yes on the likelihood of a new, rebuilt, repaired or used rack. But first identify the leaks and the source of your steering problem. The rack will only leak ATF (used in Taco power steering).
Inspect the rack shaft ends under the boots for rust/damage and check for up and down play in the shaft.
It is conceivable that you might want to live with minor slow leaks and fix the play in the rack (if it is the source of your problem). Play in the rack shaft can be mostly eliminated by upgrading to the new style rack guide without removing the rack. Cost of parts is around $60-$70.

Should you go with a replacement rack, let me/us know. That's practically a subject in itself.

Keep on researching if you have the time. There are plenty of write ups on here, TTORA and other forums about the "rack guide" and rack R&R.

I did a short write up on resealing a rack. I would not expect the average weekend wrench to attempt this but it does have lots of relevant info, diagnostic tips and pictures.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rack-pinion-service-tools-tips-dry-wordy.312600/

 

I finally got a chance to get back under the truck. Here's what I found.

Both rack ends *looked* good to me. No scoring, scratches, or rust. The passenger side dripped oil out of the boot when I took it off. I think that accumulated from a long leak from the rear cam seals (subsequently fixed, but not cleaned up). It appeared to be oil, not ATF. The drivers side had streaks of grease on it. I have no explanation for that.

The passenger side rack end seemed solid when I tried moving it around. The driver's side allowed a little bit of up and down play. Is that the worn rack guide?

I can find no leaks in the rack anywhere.

There was also a little play in steering column, according to the test described on the linked ttora thread.

I think my plan at this point is a new rack guide (where I source the new style?) and new bushings. After that I'm going to drive it. If it still feels sloppy I'll look into the slip joint fix.

Yea?

 

Does this mean that all the rack bushings can be replaced, without disconnecting the hydraulics?

 

Yes, yes and yes. Here is a link to mine:
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2000/toyota/tacoma/steering/steering_rack_bushing_kit.html

It took me all of 20 min. to replace. I would do this 1st. Make sure you re-install the metal washers on the top big bolt, and use some Dawn Liquid to help push them in.

 

It would be tough for engine oil to get inside the pass side rack boot, not saying impossible. It could easily be "dirty" ATF. Anyhow a slow rack end seal leak could certainly be tolerated. Check the boots for holes.

Streaks of grease on the driver side are normal. All of the rack shaft visible on the driver side spends it's life outboard of the "hydraulic" portion of the rack. The rack gear, pinion gear and the rack guide are dependent on grease for lubrication, just a finger full, no more.

Play on the driver side only or "much more on the driver side" is the textbook symptom of a sloppy guide. There are good write ups on several forums. TTORA (1st gen Tacoma section) has some of the originals with all the part numbers. If you can't find them let me/us know. The parts are "dealer only" and consist of the guide, a spring, a lock ring and a new cap known as the "adjuster". The spring and the lock ring are the same and can be re-used but they are cheap. The old style "adjuster" could be re-used but a spacer would need to be fabricated. Again it's a cheap part. What ever you do, do not tell a dealer that you want parts for your year or you might end up with the same old style stuff. That goes for purchasing a rebuilt rack a well.

Your plan of attack sounds good assuming the ball joints and tie rod ends are tight.
The mount bushings have the potential for the most slop followed by the guide and then closely by the slip joint.

 

Here's a few threads on the guide. As far as the bushings, Energy Suspension is a popular choice. Be aware that the sleeve (metal tube) for the horizontal bushing came in 2 different inside diameters. Toyota used 2 different bolt diameters and it's kind of vague when exactly the change occurred. I don't know if this issue has been nailed down by now or not. Some bushing kits came with both sizes. I had to drill out the 1st set I did.

 

Is the rack guide a dealer-only part? I don't find it on rock auto.

 

And, it looks like I need to order the part for a 2001 or newer 4Runner, instead of a '98 4Runner, yea?