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Help wiring OEM switch

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by Zachs_Tacomer, Jul 14, 2019.

  1. Jul 14, 2019 at 5:20 PM
    #1
    Zachs_Tacomer

    Zachs_Tacomer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys,

    I have a 30” rigid light bar I am trying to wire to an OEM style switch. The rigid harness has a black, red, and blue wire. The switch has black, blue, red, & green wires.

    The switch has a light in it. I don’t care to wire it to a running light when the truck turns on. I just want the light in the switch to turn on when it turns the bar on.

    Any help is much appreciated!

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    3744B6C4-22A2-4A4D-B115-8FD76BA84A43.jpg
     
  2. Jul 14, 2019 at 5:31 PM
    #2
    rnish

    rnish Well-Known Member

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    Generally on vehicles black is ground, red is hot. On your house black is hot, red is switched hot and green is ground (go figure).

    Looks to me they want you to wire the switch so it turns the aux lights on only with the high beam. The switch green takes power off the high beam. The switch red goes to the relay which turns the aux lights on. Switch black is ground. Switch blue is for the switch light.

    Looks like you need a relay. Did one come with the light or switch?
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2019
  3. Jul 14, 2019 at 5:53 PM
    #3
    Zachs_Tacomer

    Zachs_Tacomer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    @rnish the rigid harness has a relay on it. However, it didnt come with a wiring diagram. I don't care to wire the harness to the high beams so would i disregard that wire? Or plus it into power from the harness as well.
     
  4. Jul 14, 2019 at 6:00 PM
    #4
    rnish

    rnish Well-Known Member

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    You cant disregard it. The switch needs power so it can activate the relay. You can take power off any hot, but be careful then you run the risk of the lights staying on even with truck is off.

    Also the light came with a fuse block? If not I would put one after the relay which powers the lights.
     
  5. Jul 15, 2019 at 12:10 AM
    #5
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Get your self a Multi Meter makes it simple to figure out what is going on.

    Then figure what you want to do.
     
  6. Jul 16, 2019 at 2:09 PM
    #6
    Zachs_Tacomer

    Zachs_Tacomer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The light bar harness came with an inline fuse. Do i need another fuse between the positive of the switch and the lightbar harness?
     
  7. Jul 16, 2019 at 2:22 PM
    #7
    rnish

    rnish Well-Known Member

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    You should not be going directly to the light bar with the switch. The switch supplies low amp power to the relay. The relay handles the higher amp power to the light bar. So no the one fuse should be all you need. This assumes you are taking the switch power from a circuit that is already fused for switches. However, for example, you tap directly from the battery yes put a small fuse between the battery and the switch.
     
  8. Jul 16, 2019 at 4:48 PM
    #8
    Zachs_Tacomer

    Zachs_Tacomer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sorry I guess I didn’t explain that well. There is a fuse between the battery and the relay. Sounds like I should add a fuse between the switch and the relay? What size fuse should I get?
     
  9. Jul 16, 2019 at 5:14 PM
    #9
    rnish

    rnish Well-Known Member

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    Power between the switch and the relay should be low. Where you tap that power from should be low and already fused. If you tap from a unfused circuit e.g., directly from the battery then fuse it. The switch should have a rate something like 5-10 amps. Note the coil on the relay will also have a rating. Let them be your guide.

    You made me look. Toyota fuses: tail lamps, IG 1&2, WSH @10 amps @12 volts. So 10 amps looks good. Gauges are fused at 7.5.
     

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