Help Needed With AC Compressor Removal & Replacement

My air conditioner stopped working the other day, which is like a death sentence in Florida during July. When I turn my A/C on, I hear a loud squeal and faint rubber burning smell, followed by the A/C button flashing yellow. I am pretty sure that the A/C compressor is seized, and the squeal and rubber burning smell is due to the serpentine belt slipping over the compressor pulley. I was completely unfamiliar with the Tacoma A/C system before this happened, so I've been reading up on it, but I still have a few questions:

1) As far as I know, the A/C compressor pulley rotates freely with the engine on and the A/C off, and only engages the A/C compressor when the magnetic clutch is engaged by turning the A/C on. Is that correct? If so, that seems to eliminate a clutch problem and pinpoint the compressor as being seized.

2) At the present, my plan is to have a local shop evacuate the A/C system. Then I would proceed with replacing the A/C compressor, condenser and inline orifice filter, and flush out the A/C lines. Does the expansion valve have to be replaced as well?

3) Any thoughts or recommendations on getting a new A/C compressor? I was planning on getting a new Denso compressor. Has anyone had any issues with them?

4) Does the evaporator have to be flushed out also? If so, does it have to be removed to do so? Does it have to sit overnight to dry out? I've read a variety of things online about procedures or if it is even effective to do this, so I am not sure what to think at this point.

5) How do I find the part numbers for the o-rings for the different lines, etc. that I will be removing? I've been able to find the parts that I need online, but not the o-rings themselves. I would like to order these before hand, but do most automotive stores carry them in stock as well?

6) Is it best to dump out whatever oil came in the compressor and replace it with fresh oil? The servicing sticker on my truck says to use RL-897. Should I specifically use that, or is double capped PAG 46 okay to use?

7) I'm borrowing a loaner set of manifold gauges from an auto parts store to service the system. Since I've never done this before, do the hoses ever get residual oil inside them from being used? If so, do I need to clean them out before using them, and how should that be done?

8) Where should the oil be added to the A/C system? I saw a video online where all of the oil was added to the center hose on the manifold gauge right before the R134A bottle was connected. Is this okay to do, or should some oil be added to the compressor, and then somewhere else?

9) Does anyone have the part number for the inline orifice filter? Should I replace my filter with one of the same color, or does it not matter? I would like to order all the parts I need before I take everything apart.

Any help is appreciated!

 

OP,
1. Yes. Or the pulley itself. First take off the drive belt. The clutch pulley should easily spin. If not its bearing has seized, or the compressor seized. Next take off the bolt on the end of the clutch pulley. Be careful as there are 1 or two shims for the clutch. Keep track. Examine back side of pulley for degradation. Then try to turn compressor shaft with something. It should not be seized but may have some resistance but still turn.

2. Good question on the TXV valve. I do not know if the pros do this routinely or not. It is only available in a $$ kit form from Toy but aftermarket can easily be found. Note the parts info below in Response No. 5 and an alternative to the kit by using the other parts defined.

3. The Denso compressor is the OEM Delphi compressor. They just scrape off Delphi labels and put new Denso labels on, and sometimes not very well. Get the Denso from the least expensive source you can. Try Rock Auto but also check around. Make sure you do the oil balance correctly. Absolutely do not place a new compressor on with the full oil charge it comes filled with as you could blow some lines. It this seems confusing PM me and I will tell you how.

4. Do not try to flush the evaporator unless you find debris in the lines and filter or elsewhere when you take it apart. If you find this stuff the compressor has self destructed and then you will need to do a complete thorough, and I mean thorough, flush of the entire system and maybe (probably?) a replacement of the evaporator.

5. Part numbers. Here are the numbers for the seals. Also listed are various other parts you may encounter.

90210 Series Seals
Part Number Qty. Where Used
- 90210-A0001, takes 1, used on top front side (engine side) of TXV valve.
- 90210-A0002, takes 4, used on the bottom of both sides of the TXV, and the compressor outlet, and the condenser inlet
- 90210-A0003, takes 1, used on the outlet of the condenser
- 90210-A0004, takes 2, used on the top of the TXV on evaporator side, and the low side (inlet) connection on the compressor

90301 Series Seals and Special Black Plastic Couplings
Part Number Qty. Where Used
- 90301-A0006, takes 2, both used under the suction coupling next to firewall, this is the larger diameter of the two lines and heads back to compressor; the black plastic coupling is 88718--01180
- 90301-A0010, takes 1, used under high pressure switch on line from condenser to evaporator near radiator
- 90301-A0012, takes 2, both used under the high pressure pipe coupling next to firewall, this is the smaller diameter of the two lines; the black plastic high pressure coupling is 88718-01190

Inline Filter and TXV Valve
- 88377-04010, takes 1, special filter at TXV valve
- 88515-04060, takes 1, this is the TXV valve kit, it includes the filter, new mounting screws, inlet manifold to the TXV and two O-rings; an aftermarket TXV is also available but if you reuse the manifold use the new seals identified in the 90210 series above and the inline filter 88377-04010 identified immediately above.

Service Ports (Valve Cores)
Yes, sometimes these leak. The Toyota ones are a complete rip off. At one time they were around $15 ea. Perhaps that has changed. I will list their part numbers anyway. However, you can get both usually from a HVAC supply house and elsewhere for cheap. The low pressure one is just a traditional Schrader valve core the same size as in tires. The high pressure one in the line in front of the condenser is just an ACME core. They need to be compatible with R134.

- 88374-04020, 1 required, on smaller diameter high pressure line in front of condenser
- 88374-04030, 1 required, on larger diameter return line back to compressor

6. Compressor oil. Good luck finding RL-897. At one time most dealers did not have a clue about it. It is Toyota part number 00289-AC897. Call around or special order. I've seen all kinds of alternatives suggested so I can't say for sure but I was able to find the RL-897.
I would not reuse the oil especially if the compressor has a high miles of use and certainly not if it has grenaded. The new compressor will come with the oil but if your old compressor can be salvaged drain, flush and refill with new oil. You must measure how much oil came out of the compressor and refill with same amount. But if you add new components, you will have to account for how much has accumulated in the old ones and replace with same amount.

7. Yes the hoses get residual oil inside, if the compressor turns out to be ok leave them alone it is not very much. However, if the compressor has destructed, they will need replaced or flushed. Denatured alcohol in the gallon size from the home improvement stores can be used and is cheap. There are other commercial ones that may be better. But you may have to flush and back flush repeatedly. I just hang them vertical with a wire and let them dry out a couple days. You can also dry out parts with nitrogen. I have rented a large bottle from an industrial gas supplies and set the regulator to very minimum and done a few things for a period of over night.

I'm a bit concerned that you said you have not done any manifold gauge/recharge work before. IMHO the AC system can have parts replaced by DIYers but is no place to learn. I'm not trying to be an elitist here or scold anyone but just being practical. I believe it is ok to replace parts and all but the system can really be messed up if you do not know what you are doing. Plus you will need to deep vacuum the system prior to recharge. Finally, the system is not charged by manifold pressures but proper charging is done by precise weight and weight alone per the amount on the sticker on the radiator cowl.
I believe it is money well spent to have an experienced automotive AC person do this part and is usually not all that much.

8. Here is how its done at the factory. The components are put together dry and then the compressor with full oil charge is added as the last piece. The system is charged and then started. The oil circulates to the other parts with the refrigerant, accumulates a certain amount, and back to the compressor.
On this system for repairs I like to get the oil balance correct by adding oil to the components as they are bolted back on. Typically I will add only smaller amounts to the service ports if absolutely necessary in a 50:50 distribution.

9. The part number for the OEM in line filter is given in the parts list above.

 

Thanks for all the advice. I really do not have the tools or knowledge to do the job properly, so I just brought it to a shop to have it done. Although it wasn’t cheap, my A/C is up and running again now.

Jordan

 

Great!