Help diagnosing AC compressor noise!

5/25/18 This post is completely new. Disregard replies before this date.

Okay guys, need help diagnosing. Is this the AC compressor internals, the clutch, or the clutch bearing? The AC idler pulley has already been replaced. The noise comes directly from the compressor or component on it.

Please watch the video. I turn on the AC about 45 seconds in. You can see the clutch catch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26trBJDkHZ0

I put my phone in a ziploc bag to try to reduce fan wind in this video:
https://youtu.be/gIh0XYtiaHk



You can hear the noise faintly before turning on the AC... once the AC is on, it becomes much louder. The bearing obviously sounds bad... but I am not sure if the whole compressor is going bad too, or if it's maybe just the clutch slipping or something.

 

sound like you low on powersteering fluid.

 

It only does it with the AC on

 

The belt that powers your AC compressor is always turning regardless if the AC is on. When you turn your AC on, the AC clutch engages and operates the compressor. It would be my educated guess that your AC Clutch Bearing is wearing out. No clue how to replace it but maybe somebody on here has or could point you in the right direction. If your AC is still producing cold air, your compressor is still good.

 

i think i saw one someone replaced on here the other day....i'll have to search.....I damn sure read about it somewhere......

 

I've been messing with the AC compressor in a '98 4Runner. Still am, in fact. I replaced (almost) the pulley. You have to buy a kit that includes the clutch, the pully, and whatever it is that's behind the pulley. That last part is mother to get to and I just left on there. I bought my kit from Rock Auto (the cheapest one (because it shipped from the right location)) but it was the wrong size. So, don't buy that one.

Just the pulley isn't too bad. You have to take all 3 belts off. The clutch is held on with a 10mm bolt (take it off before you take the belts off or it will just spin free). Then there's a snap ring that holds the pulley on. This is nearly impossible to see. Call your dentist because you'll be working in a mirror and he's the only one that work backwards in a mirror. I read, but can't independently confirm, that the snap ring is tapered, so pay attention to how you take it off so you can put the new on one the same way.

The problem with my 4Runner was much worse than what I'm hearing here. The pulley was actually wobbling around. Now, I've got ordered a whole compressor, dryer, and a valve who's name escapes me right now.

 

I bumped an ancient thread related to it, which is probably what it was lol

 

I changed the bearing in my clutch pulley about a month ago on my 98 tacoma. Total cost of the job was $8 for a bearing and however much beer I drank. After taking the 10mm bolt out of the center of the clutch I used one of the bolts from the skid plate as a jacking bolt to remove the clutch from the pulley. Hard to tell but the hole is threaded and it took me a while to see it because as said before you're looking into a mirror. After the clutch is off you then have to remove the most screwed up snap ring I've ever seen. It's a snap ring and wave spring all in one and the 2 holes in my snap ring was different sizes so I used a screwdriver to get mine out then drilled the holes out to the same size. Most people say their pulley just slides off the compressor but mine didn't. I had to loosen my fan shroud and take off my fan so I could use a puller to get the pulley off. Once the pulley is off you have to un-stake the bearing and press it out then press the new one in and reassemble. Lots of cussing in between those steps and a few beers lol. Also their are some shims that hold your clutch off the pulley a certain distance. Don't lose them or your clutch could stay engaged. I looked at buying the whole clutch but found out just the bearing can be replaced. I normally buy quality parts but chose to get the $8 bearing off of eBay instead. So far it's quiet and was worth the labor it took to change.

 

This is the bearing I bought if you want to buy a name brand you can find a nachi by using the dimensions on this ad. http://www.ebay.com/itm/171678880035

 

BUMP. Need help diagnosing noise! New video in first post

 

Have you tried adding a little compressor oil? I don't really know that much about this problem however i know you can do that. It also kind of sound like the compressor is running rough maybe needs oil.

 

Would a compressor lose oil?

 

Absolutely its going to cause damage if it doesn't have oil. It's very easy to add oil also. This one in the link is compressed and just shoots into the compressor with a $5 - $10 adapter. Make sure you check with the autoparts store which pag you need there is like pag 46 - pag 100 and others. I think its pag 46 for the car. The adapter you need is a can tap one. It has a screwing handle on the top of the adapter to pierce the can.

https://www.autozone.com/a-c-chargi...-pro-46-pag-oil-charge-with-ice-32/424620_0_0

 

I'm confused.. if the compressor lost oil wouldn't there be some sign of it somewhere? Would this mean my AC is compromised, has a leak of some sort if the compressor was low on oil?

 

Im not sure exactly how and where it leaks but a lot of the major r134a refills have pag oil in them mixed with the refrigerant. It's because when the refrigerant leaks the oil does also. If the compressor doesn't have oil it will cause damage just like if the engine didn't have oil. Overheating/metal parts scraping. It also could definitely cause a loud noise if it didnt have oil. It cost maybe $20 to add oil so I would definitely do it if this is your problem. If that doesn't fix it my guess is the bearing. On that it has a leak if the clutch is engaging that means you still have R134a in it so the leak probably isn't bad if there is one or maybe the oil just went bad.

 

Hmm... well I'm thinking if there is oil loss then there must also be Freon loss... but my AC still blows very cold (can even see it come through the vents sometimes.. it's that cold).. so I'm going to try to replace the bearing and pray to god that fixes it. $20 for a bearing and some time in the garage sure will beat a new compressor and all the nonsense with evacuating and recharging the system.

 

Yea i guess, id add oil first if it only takes 20 minutes compared to an hour or two putting a new bearing on. At least its not that complicated and you will definitely have a fix eventually. damn check engine light can have you searching for years.

 

The thing is, if I'm losing oil then I have a leak somewhere... so I would need to get that fixed too, ya know?

 

Sounds like the bearing to me. It's not very difficult to replace just kind of a pita to access it.

 

Pull the belt off and give it a spin. Nothing in the compressor should be spinning since the clutch isn't engaged.