Harmonic Balancer Bolt

1999 SR5 2.4 Automatic

Can someone tell me for certain whether my harmonic balancer bolt is standard right-hand threads?

I understand I’m going to need to really bear down with the impact wrench to break it loose. I want to be confident that I’m not tightening it.

I’m also replacing all three belts, but are there any other things I should check or replace that are made easier by having the crankshaft pulleys off?

Someone told me I should replace the crankshaft position sensor. Is it under that cover behind the harmonic balancer?

Truck has 397,000 miles, and hasn’t had any engine repairs.

thanks!

 

https://youtu.be/KxthKmWQvos?si=PjugFXHN7Poc_EGq

Yes, righty tighty and lefty loosey. Your hurdle will be retightening it. May want to buy a crank bolt socket. With my manual I just put it in 5th gear, had my wife stand on the brake and gave it all I had with a breaker bar. Paint pen marked bolt and HB and it hasn’t moved almost a year later.

Think it’s something like this.

$21 E-cowlboy for Toyota/Lexus Crankshaft Damper Pulley Holding Holder Harmonic Tool with 2PCS Crank Bolts

https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Crank...efix=toyota+crank+bolt+socket,aps,238&sr=8-18



Good luck.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I skipped to the end of that video, and it appears that the bolt has right-hand threads. Am I correct?

Using the starter to loosen the bolt is a cute idea if you have an automatic, which I do. Too bad it can’t be made to spin the motor in reverse ...

The tool you linked prevents the engine from turning by attaching to the HB, which is splined to the crankshaft, and you use a second breaker bar to hold the tool? Maybe Autozone will loan me that tool ...

Is there an actual torque spec on that bolt, or is it just “tight as you can get it”? The impact wrench I have is rated 1170 ft-lbs breakaway and 880 tightening. That seems like it might be excessive.

 

Yes right hand threads. Yes supposed to hold the HB and shaft stationary while bolt is torqued. There is a torque value, you’ll have to search it. Think it was like 210 flbs. Believe FSM calls to replace bolt but I put original back and just scribbed a mark for reference, put all I had in me to tighten it. I’m about 210.

And I was as nervous as a whore in church with that crank bolt loosing trick but it worked like a champ. Just take your time and make dang sure everything is aligned and tied off before you try it.

 

Crank sensor is located under your alternator bracket.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/check-engine-on-and-off.794790/#post-29828283

 

me and Thatt have both helped each other with our CS bolt removal and install

Thatt sold me on the use of a crank shaft holder to properly tighten CS bolt(and to mark bolt/pulley for any movement)
i turned Thatt on that above vid for removal
i was really surprised:
-how easy starter method vid worked
-how much additional torque i got on CS bolt with holder(like almost a 1/2 a turn of the wrench

 

I used the breaker bar method on my old 1st gen.....
Made the loudest crack ever.
Scared the shite out of me.
Broke it loose, though.

 

Lucky bastards......when I bought that tool 4 yrs ago they were $50...

the rear axle seal tool is almost half price too....use to be $110 with ring tool/attachments...

 

that is the 1st time i have heard of ANYTHING going down in price in last 4yrs!!!!!!!!

OS plz send me a link to that rear axle seal tool whenever you get time
thanks!!

 

I hear that.
They were around $80 when I fixed mine...
That's why I went breaker bar.

 

For Toyota Tacoma Tundra T100 Pick-up Rear Axle Bearing Puller Tool W/ Tone Ring | eBay

 

u da man

from those Timmy vids you sent me.........i know there is an extra step for ABS tone ring
QQ
would tht tool work for no ABS?
thanks again

 

Of course the really expensive piece is the 20ton floor press

that axle press tool fits all...
and those thick extra steel pieces come in handy on a press for other things...

Used to be able to get HF 20ton for around $150 with coupons....
......NOT NO MORE....

 

On my 2001 the thermostat and water pump are in there.
Can by it as a kit, if I remember right.
Might as well replace them while you're that deep in.

 

IF your at that point I'd do a new oil pump gasket....
and possibly a water pump...

 

OK, thanks. Thought it might be under the HB since that is mounted to the crank end.

 

The down side is y’all ain’t closer to share a beer with.

 

I just ordered the tool you recommended. Should have it in a couple of days. Hopefully this will be preferred to pulling the radiator to use an impact.

 

OK, I have the crankshaft-holding tool in hand, truck on ramps, fan shroud and all belts off. I had to partially drain the radiator so I could take the top hose loose and pull the fan shroud out the top. Didn’t see an easier way.

Once I got under the truck, I was getting dirty so fast I decided to pressure-wash everything to make the job more fun.

BTW, I Googled up a couple of references that gave the torque specs for this bolt as 195 and 216 foot-pounds. Does that sound close to correct?

 

yeah 195 to 217

also
put a piece of cardboard over the inside of rad(for protection)
this prevents any dmg to fins/etc from dropping tools, stripping a bolt and the wrench handle hits rad.....ETC