Haltech Stand alone ECU supercharger 3.4, SILVER BULLET TUNE www.snpspeed.com

At WOT (with the ECT button on) mine shifts 1-2 at 4800 RMP and 2-3 at 5000 RMP.
Loving it!

2002

 

Just finished up a tuning session and we got the issue figured out. I can't remember which table needed adjustment but basically the ecu was pulling a bunch of fuel after coasting or decelerating, going super lean, and sort of getting stuck there for 10-20 seconds before it could correct itself. I was seeing AFR's hit the low 20's when the issue was occurring. Got it all corrected though and it's running great!

 

Just to add to the trans talk, my trans is OEM, 260K, truck is used so I don't know how it shifted new, but one of my issues is I can't WOT and let it shift. Its not that it bounces off the rev limit but the shift draaags and I can just imagine the clutch packs frying- so I let off during the shift and then back on it. Would be sick a standalone config comes a long that can control the trans as well.

I have a transgo shift just sitting at home- not going to DIY this and need to setup a date/time to have a place I trust slap it in and also inspect the tran's health. I question the health as I did the mod to max out the drop down cable/increase pressure (basically lock the cable so the trans thinks you are WOT at all times) and it makes my cold start P to D transition super harsh.

 

FMU FOR SUPERCHARGER WITH STOCK INJECTORS, HALTECH,
solution,

FMU are not talked about here maybe because others have not tried them or don't know about them

Here is some information for those that are having ping issues..

I have had my supercharger since new in 1998 and have over 700k miles on it. It came with the TRD FMU that replaced the FPR. The Trd fmu had a built in fpr in it also. The trd fmu is close to a 3:1 rise rate but it's not a very consistent FMU.
It has worked pretty well most of its life and has allowed me to run a 1.9" pulley with stock injectors and now a 340 AEM fuel pump and a haltech, But inconsistent fuel pressure.
I've never needed the 7th injector because I have the fmu for added fuel.
With the 1.9 pulley and stock injectors and stock ecu 340 AEM I had no ping issues at 6000 feet.
With the haltech I have no ping issues either with the 340 AEM, stock injectors and 1.9 pulley,
I have 40,000 plus miles with the 340 AEM pump, stock injectors and haltech running perfectly, no issues except inconsistent fmu pressure.
Trd fmu being inconsistent is one WOT AFR is 11.5 another pull same condition is 10.5, usually runs rich.

Gabe Salazar from snpspeed.com has been doing some testing on the stock injectors and he found an ideal high quality FMU and now has a kit with fmu, the precut fuel lines, vacuum line and clamps needed
This kit I got from him 500 Miles ago and I'm very happy and pleased with its results. I have added a dyno pull done today with the new FMU to see below.
The AFR from this FMU is very consistent now unlike the TRD FMU.
Trd stopped using the TRD FMU and rerouted the vacuum hose to the FPR coming off the boosted side of the supercharger giving the fpr a 1:1 rise rate. Unfortunately it doesn't perform as well as a 3:1 actual fmu unit hence some lean issues are found depending.
FMUs have been around for years and are active when boost starts.
If you have a haltech and want to keep the stock injectors because of emissions this is an excellent solution,
If your supercharger is pinging this FMU might solve your lean issues without 7th injector or methanol.
With any supercharger its highly recommended to
1) get your injectors cleaned because each one had a fuel filter,
2) new fuel filter
3) a high flow fuel pump,,
4) 2 stage cooler plugs

Alot of people don't do this and immediately think they need a 7th injector or methanol

An FMU will add more fuel pressure to the injectors once in boost 3 to 1 riase rate for this specific fmu and a 270cc injector becomes a 340cc with the add pressure as it rises slowly per pound of boost

Here is a flow test done by Gabe Salazar below.
Ideally you want larger injectors but the FMU can cover the spread for stock injectors.
For me the FMU over the last 700,000 supercharged miles has been a great solution for no lean issues without having to reinstall injectors for emissions.
My fmu situation that works is 6000 feet, 340 AEM fuel pump, you can use a smaller one, 1.9" custom pulley, injectors are stock that have been rebuilt.
Puts out 282hp and 305lbs torque at rear wheel.

Gabe Salazar is selling these vortech FMUs as he is an authorized dealer for them.
There are lots of fake, take offs FMUs available but with the original vortech you can count on the performance and quality,
Installation is pretty easy but the supercharger needs to be removed to access the stock fpr,
You need to replace that hose with the High pressure hose and the higher pressure hose clamps that are part of the kit. NOT a pressure clamp or screw type clamps. The new FMU is installed in series.
So if you're having lean issues at the boosted rpms this might be an easy solution or don’t want to run methanol for the added fuel needed if your running lean.

 

I'd love to see any one of you standalone peeps do an MPG tune (lean + advanced timing in low load) and post the MPG results. Megasquirt board people have made huge gains as stoich is more for emissions than efficiency (reduced NOx output). Emissions aside there are huge MPG gains to be made, and being standalone its very easy to still have your safe boost regions tune remain the same, this is just a change 'under the curve'.

 

I haven't seen anyone else try it to be honest, those gains come naturally as you build a more reliable tune and I think most are just getting little power tune tweaks from gabe. Not typically the type of gains you see from a remote road tuning service. More something you get after logging long rides, having a passenger tweak as you drive, or on a steady state dyno. Also going leaner typically increases NOx emissions, closer to stoich with a complete burn (properly working ignition system) is how you reduce NOx

 

Right, that was what I was trying to say. The MegaSquirt boards are fun as its a different culture than other tuning platforms centric on just big power. Lots of people there trying to EFI really old cars and get max MPGs. Read of some little old sedans getting 50 MPG mixed, big lifted heavy AF ford trucks with low aired tires getting 18mpg mixed (better than my taco!

Would be neat to see before/after of a good tuners attempt. Imagine a taco getting 25 mixed

 

It's a little ways off for me, still tweaking the safety net of my tune. But I believe you're right, there's plenty to be gained in efficiency. Going to a standalone doesn't just open up the tunability it opens you up to more accurate sensors too, all of us are on quality widebands and no longer have to deal with problematic MAF sensors.

 

I'm waiting on my new turbo but I'll be going to Haltech 2500 elite or whatever by spring.

 

What turbo did you decide to go with?

 

Precision 6466 T4 Open 0.81 A/R 3 5/8" V-Band.

 

Oh that'll be sweet! We just put literally that same turbo on my buddy's 300zx. I've got a Garrett T3 60-1 .82 AR for my taco though, very similar. No vbands for me though, maybe some day

 

Man, I'm looking at the 750 and I'm not so sure the 2500 is worth that amount of coin. I get knock control, anti-lag, anti-knock, drive by wire (don't need) and intake air bleed control with the 2500. Doesn't the 750 work in parallel with the Toyota ECU? Hmmm... I could just buy the 750 today, but I would have to wait until January-February to justify the 2500. So much to ponder, I am definitely not interested in the T model.

 

I had no problems finding an Elite 2000 about 6 months ago. Not sure what the situation is now but it might be worth looking around

 

They discontinued the 2000 in 2022. But yeah, I see it available from some sellers. Hmm...

 

Steer clear of MBgram and Danaport though. I had a less than stellar experience with both of them

 

The elite 2000 was perfect for our v6s in my opinion. It's too bad it's no longer around..

 

Getting this tomorrow

 

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Wanted to update the axis and clean it up a little bit, but if you want it now.

AEM FIC6 (blue)vs. SNP Haltech (Red)

The difference is the the power comes on much sooner.

keep in mind, I have 33” tires and a automatic transmission.

Very happy with how much sooner the power comes on